SHIO has arrived at The Loren with confidence, but very little fanfare, serving Peruvian-Japanese fusion. We only discovered that by accident, which may explain why the pop-up lacked the hustle and bustle you might expect from an exciting new venture from the team at The Loren. Taking over Maree Lounge ― effectively the lobby restaurant and bar ― SHIO offers diners an exciting range of dinner and snacking options, though some might miss the simpler fare of the old setup.

While the dining space is undeniably beautiful, on the evening we visited ― a Friday night, at the height of summer ― it lacked the buzz that would make it feel like a true destination.

A few guests made use of the bar and pool table later in the evening, but the room remained surprisingly quiet. Earlier showed a different side of the space, with young families comfortably enjoying the lounge seating, proving that SHIO can be equally suited to a relaxed family meal or a more grown-up affair.

Service was one of the evening’s highlights. Recommendations felt confident and genuinely helpful, with the team guiding us towards their favourite dishes and drinks in a way that suggested real knowledge rather than a rehearsed sales pitch. A reassurance, given the unfamiliarity of some of the dishes.

The only bum note (service wise) was that some tables were given cheap, splintery chopsticks instead of fancy black ones. There appeared to be no obvious rhyme or reason to this, but it did feel odd and inspired some chopstick-envy!

Where else to start at a Peruvian restaurant than with pisco sours? SHIO’s take on the classic was fresh and bracing, delivering exactly what was expected. The yuzu & maracuya sour was the standout drink of the evening: citrusy, tart and beautifully balanced, with the sharpness of yuzu providing just the right amount of brightness. Perfect for a scorcher of an evening.

We were pleased to see that the kitchen makes an effort to highlight local ingredients, with the waiter proudly (and unprompted) pointing out which dishes were incorporating local fish that night. There is also an admirable attempt to showcase the invasive lionfish (sadly, there wasn’t any on the menu when we went).

The olive Hamachi tiradito was the evening’s wild card ― and the biggest stand-out. Hamachi tiradito ― a Nikkei dish of thinly sliced yellowtail ― is usually associated with clean, citrusy flavours. But this version veered into unexpectedly Tuscan territory.

Capers brought salty pops of flavour, while dried olive added depth and savoury Tuscan notes. Despite those richer influences, the brightness remained, with lemon pulling everything together into a genuinely memorable dish.

The bang bang shrimp and chicken karaage were deliciously junky, and provided much needed filler. The bang bang dipping sauce, had a proper kick, and the shrimp was beautifully cooked: light and surrounded by a shatteringly crisp shell.

The chicken managed to thwart the usual pitfall of being soggy, still crunchy despite the spicy dressing. Both dishes definitely ramped up the heat, making them addictive and not for the truly faint of heart.

The crab causa was cool and creamy; the sort of dish that feels made for warm island evenings. The idea was excellent, but the potato base let it down, with a slightly unpleasant coarse texture. The silky sauce, with its gentle heat lingering at the end, brought the dish back, though, and was worthy of mopping up … if only there had been some bread on offer.

The sushi offerings, despite taking up almost half the menu were fine, but unmemorable, particularly on an island where diners already have access to excellent sushi. I would be inclined to skip this next time and enjoy more of the snacky items.

Desserts were a simpler affair, which was welcome after a meal full of bold flavours. Deep fried vanilla ice cream, with cornflakes and hot chocolate sauce, and the yuzu & sesame profiterole provided an enjoyable, straightforward finish without trying to compete with the complexity that came before.

However, there’s a sense that the kitchen may be a little over-reliant on pre-making and refrigerating dishes, resulting in textures that felt overly chilled or slightly lacking in freshness. In a menu built around vibrant flavours and careful combinations, those small details matter ― particularly with a final bill of more than $300.

The evening ended with the tropico cocktail ― because why not, on a Friday! Despite its strength, it was surprisingly delicate, with lingering jasmine and lychee notes creating an elegant finish.

The only criticism? Every cocktail we ordered, aside from the glasses they were served in, looked identical, like a Groundhog Day of libations.

SHIO is ambitious and offers some fresh and new flavours, which is very welcome on an island where it can feel like we’ve already tried everything. Twice.

There are still some kinks to work out with the ambience and preparation, and it would be nice if this were pitched as a more affordable alternative to The Loren’s Pink Beach Club, but this has the potential to become a fun favourite.

Vital statistics

Dietary requirements: something for everyone though veggies may be eating light. A pescatarian’s dream.

Farm to table factor: really great attempts to incorporate local fish – including invasive lionfish (at least in theory!)

Dress code: come as you are.

Family-friendly: a rare opportunity for families with young children to enjoy fine dining in beautiful surroundings.

Cost: a painful $300 for two people enjoying a leisurely three course meal