Buying local food in Bermuda is about much more than where something was grown or made. Behind the produce at a roadside stand or the cake in a bakery window is a network of farmers, producers and businesses navigating the realities of growing and making food on a small island.

For JaVaughn Dill, of Dill Pickle Farming, those realities begin with what Bermuda's land and climate will allow.

“I am a small local farmer that tries to grow as organically as possible. This time of the year I do not grow much because of the heat. Just a little bit of local pumpkin, sweet potatoes and local bananas are available during the summer month of August.”

Still, there is more local produce available during the summer than people may realise.

“Right now in season for the months of June, July and August you can find local pumpkin, end-of-season loose carrots and beets, bananas, sweet potatoes, cucumbers, limited tomatoes, Irish potatoes, papaya, callaloo and a few herbs.”

Growing that food, however, is becoming increasingly difficult.

“Local farming has always had challenges, but currently these challenges have gotten worse. Challenges include seed prices, fuel prices, equipment replacement prices, energy prices, approval of certain seeds and plants by DENR, weather, rise in theft, pests, ie rats, chickens and insects.”

He also pointed to the condition of the Farmers' Service Centre in Prospect, including breakdowns of chillers, the banana ripening room and ice machine.

Then there is the unpredictability of the weather.

“With the seasonal winter changes, farmers have certain time frames for planting and harvesting. Sometimes in these planting and harvesting windows there can be fluctuations of weather changes that can slow down or destroy crops.”

He also says fruit growers face their own difficulties.

“Those who plant fruit trees have issues with high winds, pests or lack of watering, and theft.”

It's why Mr Dill believes buying local has an impact well beyond getting something fresh for dinner.

“Purchasing local produce helps the economy, gives you fresher produce, maximises your intake of nutrients from farmer to customer, and farmers can gauge how much to plant for next seasons.”

He also believes consumers should understand what happens before imported produce reaches Bermuda.

“There is a lot that some Bermudians don't understand in regards to produce that is shipped into the island. Sometimes produce is a week old or older before it even reaches the grocery store shelves.”

And locally grown doesn't always mean visually perfect.

“Some things Bermudians should understand is the hard work farmers put in to produce the island with fresh produce. Not all the time you will get 100 per cent perfect produce, but farmers try to ensure that customers get the best, so there is a margin of lost or wasted produce.”

He would particularly like to see a better use for that imperfect harvest.

“Unfortunately there isn't a big food programme that takes imperfect produce and sells it for less on the island.”

Local food production doesn't stop at the farm. At The Tuck Shop, Alicia Tucker and her team turn ingredients into cakes, pastries and confectionery made in their on-site kitchen.

“Tuck Shop is a multi-concept shop featuring our organic dessert café, where we create bespoke, gourmet confectionery in our on-site kitchen. We pride ourselves in our methods and ingredients. We bake fresh every day and purchase the finest ingredients available to us. We never cut any corners in any aspect of the business, and will always deliver the best products possible.”

That includes sourcing ingredients from Bermuda's farmers.

“It’s very important for us to use local ingredients when we can. We’ve used local Windybank Farm eggs for nearly a decade. Local fresh carrots, often from Wadson’s Farm, are used daily in our carrot cake.”

The changing seasons also become part of what appears on the menu.

“We look forward to loquat season every year and create loquat tarts, upside-down cakes and pound cakes around our favourite local treat.”

Other Bermuda produce makes its way into the kitchen too.

“We use local pumpkin in our pumpkin spice scones. We are also pleased to incorporate Surinam cherries. We love bringing this local fruit to life via our delicious pound cake.”

Like Mr Dill, Ms Tucker faces the financial realities of producing food in Bermuda.

“With many things being imported, it drives the base costs up,” she said. “We also import several specialty items for our everyday operation.”

But the way Tuck Shop produces its food is something she isn't willing to compromise.

“When things are made slowly, it takes time and effort, it takes love and care. We don't unfreeze something that's been made overseas in a factory that contains preservatives and chemicals, and serve it, we buy organic ingredients and bake them from scratch every single day.”

She describes the finished products as more than simply something to eat.

“Our bespoke cakes and gourmet baked goods are both beautiful and delicious, edible art that is produced by skilled artisan chefs. The whole Tuck Shop operation is a true labour of love.”

Ms Tucker believes the way people think about locally produced goods has changed considerably since she opened the business nearly a decade ago.

“I think that there is a shift in consciousness in all aspects of consumption. When opening the business, nearly a decade ago, most people were not familiar with the phrases ‘slow fashion’ and ‘slow/farm-to-table food’ — fast forward to the present, where people seek out items that are rich in these practices.”

For her, supporting locally made food has a wider impact.

“It supports the financial ‘ecosystem’ of the island. Supporting locally and keeping funds and support circulating within the island is always best.”

And for Mr Dill, ensuring Bermuda can continue growing more of its own food will require investment in the future of farming.

“There needs to be a major revamp on some DENR regulations. Some lessons on organic and natural farming need to be introduced, so that some farmers can stray away from some conventional farming methods.”

He also believes more agricultural land is needed.

“Grounds need a period of rest time to regain minerals, nutrients and density in the soil. Organic matter also needs to be replaced back into the soil.”