There is something charming about walking into the Royal Palms Hotel and finding yourself somewhere that feels both new and yet familiar. You walk through the hallways, admiring the historic photos of Bermuda (well worth taking the time to review) and then pop into the new yet old-world style of Palomino, stylish and understated — barring the striking life-sized wooden horse sculpture.

We visited for Palomino’s Japanese Brunch recently, which seems to be attracting plenty of families with babies in tow. Despite this, the large restaurant was remarkably quiet. We suspect the mood changes considerably after dark, when the elegant setting could lend itself to a more grown-up sort of evening.

We started with the Takoyaki ― opting for the Shrimp variety ― whose fancy presentation belied the fundamentally junky food it is (basically: savoury Japanese fritters with various fillings). The decorative elements slightly overwhelmed the flavour, but the texture was spot on: light and airy rather than rubbery, as these little balls can sometimes be.

It was frustrating that there was no medley option available to allow us to sample the six different flavours, as the portion size was huge.

The Scallop Nigiri was a serious little bite. There was a surprising amount of heat, while the watercress, usually more decorative than consequential, actually made its presence felt. Buttery, light and gone in an instant, it was delicious. Two pieces are not inexpensive, but at least there is no ambiguity as to how many you are getting.

The Miso Soup was less convincing. It was very salty and the promised truffle flavour was difficult to detect, with the kombu and other salty ingredients competing rather than complementing each other.

The Japanese Benedict with avocado and sesame was a hit. The egg was soft and delicate, with a light foam and a beautifully rich overall effect. The crispy ramen base is one of those love-it-or-hate-it additions: it is seriously crunchy.

The Salmon Yakitori came with a sauce that was the star of the show. Sticky, unctuous and delicious, it had exactly the sort of moreish quality that makes you reach for another bite ― despite having already eaten far too much. The salmon itself was very slightly overcooked, although that is not entirely unexpected from a skewer, but there were still moments of delicate fish beneath the glaze.

The Chicken Katsu Curry was another winner. The cutlet was thin, crisp and very well executed. The curry sauce leaned towards the more tomatoey and acidic end of the katsu spectrum rather than the deeper curry flavour some may expect, but it worked. At this stage of the meal, though, we found ourselves too full for such a hearty serving.

The drinks continued the playful theme. The Canter cocktail, with its unexpected hit of amaretto, grew in flavour as we drank it and felt like summer in a glass. The Love Affair at Palomino arrived beneath a smoky bell jar, looking rather like something from Beauty and the Beast. Foamy, smooth and intensely floral, it occasionally veered towards soapy territory. Both could have been a little less sweet but were suitably festive for a special occasion.

We capped the outing off with the Japanese Souffle Pancakes topped with Devil’s Isle espresso espuma with maple syrup and toasted pecan. Simple and sweet ― despite the complicated name ― it was a great way to finish a meal.

For those looking for a more straightforward breakfast option, opting for these pancakes (offered with a number of different toppings) and a coffee might be your best bet.

There were a few signs that Palomino is still finding its hooves. Service was friendly and our server seemed lovely, but also oddly stressed, given how quiet the room was.

There was no clear guidance from the staff or the menu itself as to how many dishes we needed for two of us ― and without that, it would be all too easy to over order. There was also some confusion over one dish which ultimately had to be taken back. Everyone was kind and apologetic, but the experience felt a little muddled.

One thing that was harder to shrug off was a conversation we overheard at one of the family tables. Diners were asking about a changing table for their child and were advised to use the outdoor dining area.

Unfortunately, other diners had recently been smoking cigars there. The staff seemed genuinely embarrassed, but this is surely an issue that the hotel and restaurant need to address.

Perhaps the biggest challenge is that the portions are simply too generous. Strange, but true! For two people, it makes exploring such an eclectic menu surprisingly difficult.

Smaller plates, at slightly lower prices, might encourage diners to try more of what the kitchen is doing, rather than committing to a handful of dishes. The menu is extremely rich ― full of intense flavours and salt ― which feels a little unbalanced.

There is plenty of potential here, but Palomino feels as though it still hasn’t decided what it wants to be. The brunch offering is family-friendly and relaxed, while the room itself seems to be crying out for the lights to go down and the evening to begin.

For $250 for two, including drinks, it was an enjoyable meal but not quite the polished experience the setting promises. Perhaps the answer is simply to come back after dark. We suspect that is when this horse may finally hit its stride.

Vital statistics

Dietary requirements: A varied menu with plenty of options, although specific dietary guidance could be clearer.

Farm to table factor: the menu is focused on Japanese cuisine and there’s not much that’s locally sourced.

Dress code: smart casual for brunch, fancy date spot or upscale business in the evening.

Family friendly: brunch is a family friendly meal but make the most of the stylish atmosphere in the evening and leave the kids at home

Cost: $250 for brunch for two, including one cocktail each