Lawns can be very labour-intensive, especially during the summer months when growth can be rapid and, especially during rainy periods, it is usual in most gardens for the lawn area to occupy a far greater area of the garden than the flowerbeds. Which poses the question: which gives the most pleasure in function and visual impact? Beauty is in the eye of the beholder regardless of the requirement to affect that decision.

Lawns comprise usually one grass type to create them, with weed growth being a major problem to keep a uniform growth while still looking tidy and weed-free with a weed control programme. Flowerbeds by their very nature are populated with various species that produce flowers, seeds and often fruit. They vary in leaf shape and colour as well as height and length of flowering. If designed with an all-year-round interest, the visual impact can be carried through the four seasons.

Is it therefore worth considering a change of approach in achieving a more aesthetic appearance to the layout of the garden? If the lawn is not a major part of the function in the use of the garden, would it be more aesthetically pleasing to increase the number of flowerbeds while decreasing the size of the lawn area?

Invariably, the flowerbeds are located on the boundary of the garden and occasionally a flowerbed is located in the centre of the lawn. Considering the number of plant species found in the nurseries, it might well be worth considering the introduction of more plantings by creating additional plant beds within the existing lawn area. This would decrease the amount of grass to be mowed, while enhancing the visual impact of the garden in general.

The symmetry of beds could be configured in such away that from a focal point, usually the rear patio or the front of the house, the beds visually overlap and the impact is one of a mass planting of trees, shrubs, ground covers, etc, with a ribbon of green meandering through the flowerbeds. The width of lawn between the beds should be at least five feet, a width comfortable enough for two people to walk side-by-side. Considering the floriferous nature of many of our plants, the result could be such that interest is encountered for most of the year.

To add interest to the garden, create irregular shapes when laying out the beds, but most importantly to create easier mowing movement, create beds with gentle curves to allow the mower to glide effortlessly around the beds. This also make the exercise of edging a lot easier.

Plan the layout of the beds from the front or back of house both upstairs and ground level to offer interest from wherever you are viewing the garden. The size of bed will to a great extent dictate the plant species best to use; as island beds are viewed from all sides, it is advisable to select taller plant types for planting in the centre of beds, with small material falling away from the centre point.

Many species bloom several times during the season, therefore incorporate these with less floriferous types, which perhaps bloom at a different time to the central planting. Make a list of the plants that bloom several times a year as well as lists that produce seed and fruit. Collectively you can then create a good mix of continued interest. Also, consider variegated foliage to give additional interest. Use ground covers to reduce weed growth and give interest at ground level; additionally, incorporate herbaceous, bulbous and annuals in the mix for an extended interest level.

The question of maintenance is a constant when it involves the garden as the landscape is not a static entity. However, with thoughtful plant selection, weed control can be much reduced in flowerbeds; by using a mix as suggested above, maintenance can be much reduced.

Consider the size of ageing plants in relation to their continued growth and impact on the surrounding plantings, lawn and proximity to buildings. Really old trees should be checked for their status regarding health and canopy spread, the former becoming very important with ageing trees and the latter being of concern with the weight of large overhanging boughs. I would certainly have large specimens checked by an arboriculturist to check especially the crotch of the tree and all large branches to ensure no rot has started to take hold of the specific area and its likelihood of spreading if not treated. August is a prime month for hurricanes, and time is of the essence in treating large specimens.

• Malcolm D. Griffiths is a trained horticulturalist and fellow of the Chartered Institute of Horticulture in Britain. He is also past president of the Bermuda Horticultural Society, the Bermuda Orchid Society and the Bermuda Botanical Society