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A tiny percentage of all wine

West Coast idyll: Domaine Drouhin Oregon was established in 1987 by the Drouhin Family of Burgundy. Fourth-generation winemaker Véronique Boss-Drouhin produces wines of distinction, balance, elegance, and longevity (Photograph courtesy Domaine Drouhin Oregon)

Nowadays quite a few publications produce their Top 100 best wines list, but I believe that I am correct in saying that the Wine Spectator came out with theirs first – in 1988. They are selective in which wines they evaluate, but still average over 15,000 each year.

Their top picks are chosen on a combination of score, value, and availability. Right now, Burrows Lightbourn/Discovery Wines has four of this years’ actual selections and three more that are close, but of a different vintage.

At a state banquet for the President of France Emmanuel Macron and his wife Brigitte, during their last visit to the United States, I remember that Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills Cuvee Laurène Pinot Noir was served.

It showed what a highly regarded Burgundy producer, and the first one to set up in Oregon, could achieve.

During a visit to this winery I was shown, for the first time, how “gravity fed” worked and how pumps that may not be so gentle on the juice are totally avoided.

Also, these biodynamic producers pointed out large egg-shaped concrete fermentation tanks (so in vogue today). Some say that the egg shape is selected by Mother Nature as it is the best for life to be nurtured and developed in.

It was explained that during the intense activity of fermentation the molecules bounce back off the inside of the tank in far more directions than they would in square or rectangular ones. This better integrates the contents as the wine is born.

With a score of 95/100 here is what the Wine Spectator said about this 2021 vintage. “Rich and detailed, with a deep but graceful structure, offering rose petal, raspberry, orange peel and dusky spice flavours that build tension and polish towards fine-grained tannins”. *Highly Recommended*. $62.50. Stock #8076.

I recently wrote about Fattoria Fèlsina and how happy I was to see their wines back in Bermuda. Now it seems that 2020 Fattoria Fèlsina Chianti Classico “Berardenga” Reserva is close to Drouhin on this esteemed list.

The magazine expressed their view in this way: “A solidly built red introduced by aromas of mint, lavender, and wild rosemary. Shows cherry, raspberry, earth, iron, sanguine and tobacco flavours allied to an almost viscous texture as this cruises to the long finish. Impressive now yet will be better in three to five years. Best from 2026 through 2045. 94/100” $69.00. Stock #9063.

I will admit to sometimes being rather dubious when a wine – or many products for that matter – seeks recognition through the fame of its owner or producer.

Such was the case when I first tasted the wine from Sarah Jessica Parker of Sex and the City fame. But I can tell you I was most impressed at the first sip and now her 2020 Invivo X Sarah Jessica Parker Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough in New Zealand lets you enjoy a wine that placed 29th overall for just $24.50.

The magazine mentions that it leaps out of the glass with passion fruit, pineapple, guava, lime, and ginger. If you are one of the many fans of Sauvignon Blanc from this island nation, you should not give this one a miss. Stock #8742.

There is certainly a chill in the air and an aged tawny Port would be so perfect.

You may know that, besides the pleasant tawny Port that does not specify how much time it spent developing in cask, there are ten, twenty, thirty, and forty-year-old tawny on the market.

A lovely gift would be to wrap up all four and give your fortunate friend “100 Years of Port”.

Taylor Fladgate 20-Year-Old Tawny Port is featured among the chosen 100, with a score of 93/100 even though I have seen scores as high as 95 in other publications.

Although this firm was established in 1692 it is still a leader in this competitive market. Maybe I should not do so, but I will let you in on a little secret. Twenty years represents the best value for aged perfection and money spent. $79.05. Stock #3179.

Then we have the “close calls” that are the listed wines, but not the same vintage. For instance, we have in stock 2018 Ramey Russian River Chardonnay that rated 95/100 with the Wine Enthusiast and 94/100 from Wines & Spirits, but it is the 2021 that makes the Wine Spectator list with 94 points. $53.50. Stock #6390.

We have stocks of 2019 Frank Family Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (93/100 from James Suckling) for $79.00 and the stock number 6349, but it is their 2018 that makes the list with 95 points.

Lastly the 2019 vintage of El Enemigo Cabernet Franc, from Argentina is listed with 94 points. We can supply you with the 2018 El Enemigo Cabernet Franc that is a project of the Catena Zapata winemaker and Adriania Catena. It was rated 93/100 by James Suckling and The Wine Advocate. $32.50. Stock #7130.

Wines from this highly respected list often sell out quite quickly, so if you are considering Christmas gifts it would be wise to make a move now.

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd and Discovery Wines & Spirits written by Michael Robinson. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm. Burrows Lightbourn stores are located in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554) and Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355). Discovery Wines & Spirits stores are located in Hamilton (Corner of Queen & Reid Street, 232-0090) and Pembroke (Bakery Lane, 296-9463). A selection of its wines, beers and spirits are available online at discoverywines.bm

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Published November 24, 2023 at 7:59 am (Updated November 24, 2023 at 8:13 am)

A tiny percentage of all wine

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