EVERY day in Yuma started the same way — with a long list of all the things we wanted to see and do. And it ended with only a small portion done, since not only was each site interesting, but so were people there. Those interested in things military will certainly find the museum at US Army Yuma Proving Grounds, 26 miles north, very intriguing. Its museum chronicles history of this location where major weapons are tested.

It 1,300 square miles of desert contains one of the world's largest military installations. You can't miss massive atomic canons marking its entrance on US 95.

Museum curator Bill Heidner guided us around the impressive displays which cover everything from former President Bush's training there with the Golden Knights parachute team for his first parachute jump, to testing of Britain's famed Bailey Bridge. Sir Donald Bailey visited here working on the project, remembered with a display just inside the entrance. Open daily, admission is free from 10 to 4 p.m. www.yuma.army.mil.

Every day brought some new headline attraction. With our vivid on-location memories of Tobruk filming in the sand dunes so favoured by film companies, there was an almost daily drive out in that direction.

Only two miles from the Mexican border, where dunes also extend deep into that country, it's definitely a geographic wonder with more rolling dunes than I've seen anywhere in North Africa. The Bureau of Land Management allows campers with recreational vehicles to park along here in designated areas. Camping is the wrong term, since many units cost up to $200,000.

These people have to be described as daring, true desert enthusiasts, since it's become routine for drug runners to race across the border in All Terrain Vehicles or four wheel Jeep Cherokees with their contraband and make for Interstate 8, which runs through the area.

Border patrol has set up unusual horizontal tripod barricades, much like cut sections of a TV tower, in an effort to stop them. And we met several very patriotic enlisted National Guard staying at Shilo Inn who were working on the border.

There's an RV host who oversees each recreational area. We stopped to chat with one, an ex-Marine, who told us he'd alerted Border Patrol to more than 150 illegals the previous weekend. Yet amazingly, many such RVs are parked in isolated remote desert areas by solitude seekers. It would definitely cause sleepless nights for this traveller.

This trip we'd rented a Chrysler Town and Country van rather than a four wheel drive. ($862 for nine days) so we weren't equipped to drive back into Buttercup Valley where many Hollywood films took place.

Normally we'd have happily walked back across the winding dunes trail, but being only half a mile from Mexico's border there, unarmed and alone in the midst of such activity would have been foolhardy.

However, visiting the small Mexican border town of Algodones was another matter. Just over eight miles from Yuma, it was reminiscent of such small border towns visited during much of our lifetime. It offers a diversity of silver jewellery, liquor and crafts from all corners of Mexico .

We started such crossings along the Texas New Mexico, Arizona and California borders as youngsters. Then later this journalist started writing regular columns Border Buys Are Mexican Bargains<$>.

It's not all that long ago that one could cross over, each traveller buy an exotic liquor, then do the same the next day, and so on. All at unbelievable giveaway prices.

On one of TWA's fabulous old Quickie Vacation press events for the likes of Walter Cronkite, Bob Considine, Sylvia Porter and this young rookie, we were invited to ship home as much as desired.

Mother and brother Jim always joined me afterwards for a couple weeks exploring the southwest. After a series of such crossings, we had a very large case of such tastey treats. TWA packed them back in cargo (actually nailed down) and back home friends received interesting presents.

Prices in Algodones aren't that modest today, but it's worth a visit. Now snowbirds come to buy prescription medicine at discount prices, even visit dentists and eye doctors for new glasses. Sometimes doctors are trained at California universities. It's become huge border business.

Park in the Indian-owned fenced parking lot on the US side for $3 and walk across. It's a fun couple of hours. Returning through border control, Jim had a personable smiling woman agent. I ended up with a curmudgeon barking orders on just exactly where he wanted me to stand, not an inch differently. It's like a lottery — many are personable, some not.

Returning to the car, Border Patrol helicopters were on full alert overhead and a NARCO surveillance balloon above the Yuma Proving Grounds surveys the entire region.

Packed in another large carton so generously shipped by TWA was a collection of Navajo rugs purchased up on the Reservation.

Nestled in between were some large, especially dazzling specimens of Chryscola, a much sought after turquoise-like rock speciman. It had been given to us by a Tobruk crew member when we all went rock hounding up near the old Tumco mine one Sunday afternoon between on-location filming.

Rock hounding enthusiasm has continued to escalate in this area and with good reason. If you're Interested, consider driving north up Ogilby Rd off Interstate 8, about eight to ten miles west of Yuma.

By this time, you will have passed through a border patrol station on Interstate 8, where motorists are asked to stop, just momentarily to determine you're legal and also not smuggling narcotics. This is usually determined visually. Only once, when dogs were sniffing out another vehicle, was there any more than a minute spent there.

You'll soon be in old mining country, where between the road and mountains there are places where you're literally walking over good-sized pieces of white quartz and other great finds. This was gold country and it's not unusual to encounter old mines.

Always be cautions around old shafts and air vents which can be very dangerous. Old beams holding up tunnels are well over a century old. Interestingly, it was while filming Fight Of The Phoenix on location in this area that Scots-born actor Ian Bannon became so enchanted with the desert that he bought a winter home near Arizona's famed Superstition Mountains. When we spent time with him in Donegal, Ireland, he was still very enthused about the desert. Ian died shortly after filming Waking Ned Devine.

Meanwhile, back in Yuma we drive around town, the old part that hasn't been overwhelmed by urban sprawl, and admire some of the many vintage houses. Earliest ones were abobe dating to late 1800s. Sanguinetti House, home of an early successful merchant, is now a eclectic museum recalling Yuma's past. It's not far from the restored 1917 Gandolfo Theatre.

Interesting Spanish-style San Carlos Hotel, once a favourite of movie stars like John Wayne, sits awaiting restoration after damage from filming Getaway II.

Quite accidentally we stumble on a depressing Potters Field beside the local cemetery. Row after row of plain white markers, some eroding, only numbered. After inquiry, we're told they're the very poor, transients riding rails or crossing the border, often identity unknown. A depressing sight.

On a more cheerful note is a stop at Lutes Casino, certainly among most unusual meeting places in town. A cross between an antiques warehouse of decorations and a pool hall, even our quick walk through revealed a fun atmosphere for a snack.

The fact that Main Street was totally torn up didn't seem to deter their loyal customers. In the downtown's latest reincarnation, the pedestrian mall installed to save declining business didn't work, so it's being torn out and changed back to a vehicular street.

Sadly this is a scene repeated not only all over America but overseas as well. An old community allows an explosion of "big box stores" on its outskirts, often with benefit of granting tax-incentive industrial revenue bonds, convinced it will bring prosperity.

Customers gravitate there because "big boxes" mass purchasing power lures them there with lower costs. Soon the old downtown, with a more distinctive personality, declines. Then the next move is to modernise more, digging the hole ever deeper. Those of us who travel the country extensively sadly see this pattern being repeated over and over again like a stuck record.

Yet one rarely seems to learn from another.

So far Yuma has attracted a super-size new town centre prison and large characterless new civic centre, with a Hilton Garden Inn and further new development on the drawing board — and so it begins. Being built close to historic sites, what effect will that have?

More productive in attracting tourists would be a film festival focusing on headline productions made here. Shilo Inn is thinking of sponsoring one. Other communities have utilised this technique and we'll tell you about a couple standouts in future.

Also on the unusual attraction list is Paradise Casino operated by the Quechan Tribe. Just down the hill from tribally-owned old Fort Yuma, it sits on the Arizona/California border, with a segment in each state. We didn't have a chance to stop in, but understand it features more than slot machines, blackjack, poker, bingo and has a restaurant and bars.

Every trip leaves some special standout memories apart from the ordinary. Those from Yuma are both food related. Driving back roads from Yuma Proving Grounds to town, we passed through some beautiful oasis-like date groves on the California Border.

Stopping at Ross Corner Market in the heart of them, we bought a small package of fresh Medjoul dates for $1.99, sampled them in the car and immediately rushed back in and bought a large $30 case we are still eating! Fresh from the trees of Berryman Farms. Fabulous.

On our last trip to Egypt, near Sakkara dates were being dried on a canvas, assaulted by flying and crawling critters, a real turnoff. These were fresh from the tree, absolutely most delicious we've ever tasted — and it turns out film stars have been observed stopping at this little country store to purchase cases of them.

The other memory involves three gorgeous scenic labels four inches by ten and one-half inches, printed in vibrant colours to be attached to ends of wooden shipping boxes transporting locally grown vegetables across the country.

Never used, they date back to the mid-50s and are sometimes shown as popular collectibles on PBS television's Antique Road Show. They were a gift from Shilo Restaurant manager Art Everett, the Wickipedia of information about Yuma, and will look great framed in our kitchen.

There's Much in the area yet to visit. Gateway to many scenic desert sites in both states, many travelers headquarter there to go exploring

Those so inclined can also rent all Terrain Vehicles in Yuma and take to the desert to explore in a new way.