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Elegance and romance sets Fourways Inn apart

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Angela Caldwell from MEF Ltd with Andy Detzer, manager of Fourway’s Inn.

Long before it became a restaurant, Fourways Inn was already famous for its sumptuous dinners thrown for the great and the good by wealthy owner John Harvey.According to the man in charge some three centuries later, that homely charm remains the key ingredient to its proud status as one of Bermuda’s most romantic venues.From the moment manager Andy Detzel greets guests at the door and escorts the lady by the arm to her table, to the quiet post-dinner drink by the Peg Leg Bar’s 18th Century fireplace, the modern Fourways experience is surely every bit as distinguished as the legendary occasions served up by Mr Harvey.“What makes Fourways so unique is that feel of a private home which goes back into the history,” said Mr Detzel.If only the dining rooms’ coral stone walls could speak, he reflected, guests could learn more of the stories dating back to its days as the luxury Georgian home of the man behind Harvey’s Bristol Cream.As it is, elegant chandeliers and candles, tabletop silverware and live piano music help create the ideal scene for Valentine’s Day.“It’s an upscale restaurant, the cuisine speaks for itself and we have one of the best chefs in Bermuda, Tommy Poh,” said Mr Detzel.“You come in and look around and you see old traditional stuff that you just don’t find any more.“Fine dining is dying everywhere around the world. That starts to work in our favour as people still look for old-style charms.“It has all the history and still has the same look today as years ago, so that’s why it has the typical feel of being home.“In the winter, when it’s cold and nasty outside, there’s nothing better than being in Fourways.“It starts with how you are greeted at the door, because the most important impression is when they come in.“I take the lady by the arm and escort her to the table. Ladies like that, and I do promise the men they will get the lady back.“I pull the chair back for the lady and give her a drink. We don’t want our guests to feel rushed.”Fourways, which was erected in Paget in 1727, got its name simply because the building spreads in four different directions across its two and a half acres of walled gardens.Its original owner, Mr Harvey, who was known for his elegant dinner parties, lavish cooked meals and extensive wine cellar, provided overnight lodging for guests who travelled many miles by horse and carriage.During more than two centuries as a fixture on the Island’s social scene the Bermudian character of the building was carefully preserved, before a group of businessmen bought the venue in the 1970s and turning it into a restaurant. A cottage colony was added in the 1980s.Next Thursday, Mr Poh is creating a Valentine-themed ice sculpture, while roses will be brought to every lady, in case the man has forgotten.Dishes sure to put guests in a romantic mood include a deconstructed lobster thermidor with cognac butter poached lobster tail, oyster mushrooms and Parmesan cream sauce; a chocolate and strawberry trio is a likely treat for lovers with a sweet tooth.If it’s not too cold, Fourways’ Moongate garden offers a romantic outdoor setting, while wine connoisseurs may visit the cellar to take their pick from several hundred available wines.A $99 deal is on place on Fourways’ cottages, which boast access to a swimming pool, views across the water and the chance of breakfast on the balcony the following day.On one recent Valentine’s night, a diner proposed to his girlfriend after asking for an engagement ring to be hidden in a dessert.“She saw the ring, he gave her the card and got on his knees,” recalled Mr Detzel.“She was totally surprised. You could see he was nervous, but she said yes, and then all the other guests were clapping.”Another time, a love-struck Romeo booked the whole Peg Leg bar in order to propose.“It’s extraordinary. It adds to the whole atmosphere in here,” said the manager.“I love to get the ultimate smile on a woman’s face, that you get to be a part of it.“It never happens that she says no ... although I don’t know if she ever goes home and says, ‘Honey, I’m not so sure.’”***Fourways’ Valentine’s menu, priced $79 per person, consists of an amuse bouche, first course, second course, main course, accompaniment, sweets and coffee with petits fours.Other MEF Group venues offering Valentine’s menus include:n Blu, $69.75 per person, for three courses plus a champagne and strawberry sorbet. Main course options of surf and turf or pan seared rock fish.n L’Oriental, $49.75 per person, for three courses. Main course options of Bermuda rock fish, wok fried lobster and shrimp or combination of steak and shrimp.n Little Venice, $69.75 per person, for four courses. Main course options of seared pork fillet medallions or pan roasted fish of the day.n La Trattoria, $43.75 per person, menu to be confirmed.n Harbourfront is offering à la carte.

Photo by Kyle HunterThe romantic dining room at Fourway's Inn.