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Restaurateur has a smooth ride to the top

Bermuda's newest restaurant ? Silk on Front Street ? has made the grade for a prestigious list of the world's best new restaurants.

Unbeknownst to its owners, ? Silk is the third star in the crown of restaurateur Claudio Vigilante and his silent business partners ? the Thai restaurant was earlier this year subjected to a secret review by those compiling an 80-strong list of the hottest new dining spots around the world. But the cat is out of the bag now, with the list made public in this month's 'Conde Nast Traveler'.

It is the first time a Bermuda eatery has made the Traveler 'Hot List', which is now in its sixth year.

In the line-up of the 80 'hot' new restaurants from 26 countries/regions around the world, Bermuda (thanks to its B) gets top recognition in the alphabetical list, just after Argentina and Australia.

The other countries (and in one case, region) with the latest, greatest dining spots are: Brazil, Canada, the Caribbean, China, Czech Republic, Egypt, England, France, Germany, Greece, India, Ireland, Israel, Italy, Mexico, Morocco, Russia, Singapore, Spain, Switzerland, Thailand, the US and Vietnam.

So, what exactly did Conde Nast's reviewers say about Silk?

"The latest from the owners of two of Bermuda's hottest restaurants, Aqua (at Michael Douglas' Ariel Sands resort) and Fresco's, is the Island's first Thai restaurant ? and clearly not afraid to mix it up. Once past the concrete bunker-style entrance, you're in a space where Mondrianesque primary colours set off the rich Asian wood, and intimate niche tables provide a retreat from the bustle beyond the Front Street-facing balcony. The menu, though heavy on classics like (cocunut soup with lemongrass and mushrooms) and marinated duck with cilantro and garlic, also includes unmistakably Bermuda touches, like the stir-fried mahimahi (the islanders' favourite fish) served with shallots in a tamarind-chili sauce. Finish up with the apple and cinnamon spring rolls with ginger ice cream and chocolate sauce before repairing to the bar to chat with the locals. A fine evening out even if the waitstaff allow your wine glass to stand empty a tad too long ? a shame with such a good wine list."

Okay, so they waited too long for a refill but even that barb had a silver lining: praise for the wine list.

That extensive wine list is something Mr. Vigilante said he fought for.

Some of those advising him on his new venture ? as he ramped up for Silk's opening less than a year ago ? counselled that a Thai restaurant could get away with a slim fine wine bible.

Going with his gut, Mr. Vigilante said he decided to stick with plans for a fortified list. This extra vintage attention obviously wasn't missed on the Conde Nast reviewers.

It must have also helped that wine is probably a thing that Mr. Vigilante knows a thing or two about ? having run popular Chancery Lane wine bar Fresco's for half a dozen years.

Mr. Vigilante told he doesn't know who reviewed the restaurant for the magazine, how many Bermuda restaurants were visited, nor the timing of the scrutiny.

Silk also got the attention of another periodical recently with the restaurant's tasteful interior winning it a design award from the Bermudian magazine.

Mr. Vigilante ? a consummate restaurateur who nearly strayed from the photo shoot for this article to seat a duo waiting for a table at Silk's front door ? is obviously chuffed with the attention his latest restaurant is getting. He says it convinces him further that he was right to take a chance on the far east flavours from the Kingdom of Siam ? even after a potential financier suggested he might be better starting up yet another Italian eatery. Thankfully, Mr. Vigilante thought better of that ? and not surprisingly given the Island's culinary map already being overstocked with pizzerias, trattorias and more upscale Italian restaurants.