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Wildlife show is a hit

WALDEN, Colorado — People jostled cameras and squirmed on benches inside a trailer on a high-mountain meadow as the tour guide gently opened retractable doors, turning the bird blind into a window on one of nature’s most spectacular shows: Strutting, chest-puffing male sage grouse in the last throes of mating season.Dozens of greater sage grouse were first heard in the 5 a.m. darkness: Swishing sounds followed by pops, like a loud percolating coffee pot.

Light gradually spread over the meadow, brightening the jagged, snowcapped peaks of the Mount Zirkel Wilderness and revealing the source of the sounds — two big white air sacs on the birds’ chests that repeatedly inflate and deflate. The brown and black birds, about 2 feet tall, fanned out their spiked tail feathers, trying to attract the two or three hens checking them out and charging at the other eager males. The prancing stopped an hour later when a golden eagle looking for food swooped down and the grouse flew away in one bunch.

The abrupt end didn’t disappoint visitors who drove 100 miles or more to get to Walden, a town of nearly 700 in north-central Colorado.

“That’s quite a show. I was really impressed,” said George Oetzel, a semiretired engineer from Boulder. Oetzel has travelled to Australia and Costa Rica to see exotic wildlife, but he’d never seen the greater sage grouse, the largest of chicken-like birds on the Great Plains and rolling, sagebrush-dotted hills of the West. “I think there’s a good chance we’ll go again next year,” he said.

Like other towns in Colorado and the west, Walden is trying to capitalise on what’s in its own backyard by offering sage grouse tours. Monte Vista in south-central Colorado has a March celebration when thousands of sandhill cranes drop by the San Luis Valley on their northern migration. Wray, on the state’s eastern plains, draws visitors from across the country in late March to watch prairie chickens go through their mating ritual.

Communities often team up with state and federal wildlife agencies and involve local residents and businesses to put on the festivals. In Wray, the town museum hosts a program and ranchers allow groups onto their land to see the prairie chickens’ lek, or mating ground.

The Colorado Division of Wildlife has worked with other state agencies, landowners and wildlife groups to create a Web site about the Colorado Birding Trail, which grew out of development of a birding trail in southeast Colorado but has expanded with information on wildlife watching tips statewide.

Walden’s chamber of commerce books sage grouse watchers in motels throughout town to spread the wealth. Chamber director Rea Redman estimates the grouse tours and birdwatchers out on their own provide up to 70 percent of the revenue in a “dead, slow month” for local restaurants and motels.

“This time of year we have almost no business, so this gives us some weekends where there are people coming in,” said Bobbie Scott, owner of the Roundup Motel. Walden is the largest community in remote North Park, a roughly 8,000-foot-high valley that’s nearly encircled by mountains and encompasses the 24,800-acre Arapaho National Wildlife Refuge and the headwaters of the North Platte River.

Besides grouse, moose that roam the wetlands crisscrossing the valley floor have been a draw since the state restored them to the Walden area in the late 1970s. The town’s welcome signs read: “Walden, moose viewing capital of Colorado.”

Marketing local wildlife “is becoming more mainstream as a rural economic development tool as the Great Plains in particular have undergone significant social and economic change,” said Ted Eubanks, whose Austin, Texas-based Fermata Inc. works with communities nationwide to promote their natural resources, wildlife or cultural history.

“What I’ve found is that most communities do have something, but most can’t see it because they grew up with it,” Eubanks said. Even the absence of something can be an asset. Eubanks said the dark skies of north-central Pennsylvania have turned Cherry Springs State Park into a popular destination for city dwellers attending stargazing parties. Eubanks sees backyard nature tourism as a growing trend. He started his business nearly two decades ago and now works in eight or nine states at a time, concentrating on events he considers environmentally sustainable.

Newspaper owners Kris and Gary Hazelton were among residents who started an elk festival in Estes Park, the eastern gateway to Rocky Mountain National Park. The town about 70 miles northwest of Denver gets big crowds in the fall during elk mating season when the normally quiet bull elk call on females with a rumbling, guttural sound that ends in a loud squeal.

“It was a great motivation because people were coming up anyway. We thought we’d let people know what elk are about,” Kris Hazelton said.

An estimated 8,000 people attended last year’s two-day Elk Fest in a downtown park. This year’s Elk Fest is September 29-30 and will feature nature talks, music and American Indian storytelling. State and federal wildlife officers serve as guides on shuttle-bus tours to Rocky Mountain National Park in search of bugling elk. Estes Park police officers and other residents fan out through the mountains to scout for herds so the guides know where to go.

A wedding party — in gowns and tuxedos — went on one of the tours three years ago, Hazelton said. Organisers of the Walden sage grouse tours work closely with the Colorado Division of Wildlife, which provides the bird blind. The mating area is on state trust land that’s usually closed to the public.

State wildlife officer Josh Dilley said the tours are a chance to educate people about sage grouse and efforts to preserve the bird’s habitat.

“It brings folks to Walden who may not otherwise visit here,” Dilley said of the tours. “Once they see what North Park has to offer, they come back for other opportunities.”