Although one should never judge by first impressions, Hack has always held a bit of a grudge against this little bistro ever since our first encounter. Shortly after its opening, we telephoned to book a table and were told, somewhat snootily, that reservations were not taken and that we would have to turn up on the night and take our chances. A few evenings later we dutifully arrived at a completely empty restaurant and were told ? outright rudely this time ? that all tables were taken and it was our own fault for not showing up earlier. Baffled by this conundrum Hack left feeling like a scolded schoolboy and, apart from a fairly boisterous leaving do when there was safety in numbers, has been too frightened to return since.

That was a few years ago and, letting bygones be bygones, Hack decided this week to give Bistro J another whirl.

Any pre-dinner apprehension was blown away the moment we stepped out of the wind tunnel that was Chancery Lane into a warm and welcoming dining room oozing earthy colours, low lighting and what Hack can only describe as Brazilian chill-out jazz playing unobtrusively in the background.

The restaurant was, as before, completely deserted which is never a good sign, but we were early after all ? the place had only just opened up for evening trade. Nevertheless, with one very bad experience still in mind, we asked if our hosts could squeeze in two hungry customers. This time we were gestured to a snug corner table. Seconds after being seated, a fresh-from-the-oven country loaf was delivered and drink orders taken. I began to warm to the place. All very pleasant.

Like the rest of the rustic d?cor, there?s something reassuring in Bistro J?s menu, which is chalked up informally on a blackboard. It implies that the kitchen has the freedom and confidence to change what?s on offer daily depending on what the chefs can get from their suppliers each morning or by what they feel inspired to create on any given whim.

It also means that, without bucketfuls of standbys sitting in the freezer to fall back on, the choice is a little restricted ? just six starters, five entrees and half a dozen appetizers up for grabs on this particular night. Fortunately in Bistro J?s case the menu is designed in such an imaginative way that you can still feel spoilt for choice despite the small selection. We ummed and ahhed over the appetizers ? prawn and lemon skewers or sesame toasted rice balls? Or maybe tomato and mozzerella bruschetta. Eventually we opted to begin with two fairly unorthodox starters ? barbequed calamari for one and watercress puree with seafood for the other. The latter seemed such an enticing and exotic mix I was almost disappointed when a bowl of soup was put in front of me. That said, the vibrant green dish was creamy yet savoury, the only complaint being that the accompanying pieces of seafood were an unnecessary intruder. Perhaps straightforward watercress soup would have been a better option. The calamari on the other hand was a real winner. It?s always good to see a kitchen do more with this cheap and abundant ingredient than lazily coat it in flour and toss it in the deep fat fryer. Bistro J?s twist was to serve up the sweet and smoky flesh with an equally sweet and smoky sauce, accompanied by a mango salad. Good stuff.

We were just as indecisive about main courses until our helpful head waiter pointed out that the beef Wellington in port wine was a better choice than the pork loin with jasmine rice and mushroom sauce. And yes, if you fancied fish but weren?t keen on salmon it could be replaced with wahoo or mahi mahi, coated in peppers and chaperoned by saffron mash and lobster bisque. Both dishes hit the spot ? a meaty chunk of wahoo working well with its intensely fishy sauce, the moist beef contrasting beautifully with crisp, buttery pastry and rich duxelle. With the aforementioned bread we mopped our plates so clean you could have eaten your dinner off them.

And now for dessert. Normally Hack opts to share one between two but on this occasion, following the advice of another waiter, we went for the chef?s selection. This in fact turned out to be not one pud but three served up on the same plate ? an immensely gooey chocolate brownie with chocolate sauce, a mound of silky smooth panna cotta and a scoop of honey cinnamon ice cream, all dressed with summer fruits and coulis. We managed to put away the lot.

And the price for this impressive meal? Believe it or not the cheque came in at $95 plus grats, which is staggeringly good value when you consider it included three glasses of wine, two coffees and a bottle of mineral water ? the mark-up of which, in any restaurant, is always way over the top.

Bistro J, whatever it may have once been, has now got it right by getting its priorities ? the basics ? right without overlooking the details. The food was different and original while still being well prepared, satisfying and homely. The atmosphere was warm, relaxed and welcoming and the thoughtful staff didn?t put a foot wrong all night. We really didn?t want to leave.