Writing in last Saturday's edition of London's Daily Telegraph, a critic given the job of reviewing some enormous, multi-volumed tome that went on for thousands of pages, compared his task to that of exploring a continent by rowing boat.

The same can be said of writing a review about brunch. There's so much to choose from and no matter how many times you say to yourself, heavily laden plate in hand, “ooh, I'll have some of that next time around”, there are only so many “next time arounds” that even the most gluttonous gourmet can force down.

Nevertheless, your conscientious reviewer dutifully skipped breakfast last Sunday, selected my loosest fitting pants and trotted off to The Fourways Inn on Middle Road in Warwick for what can only be described as a major blow-out.

Depending on where and when you go, Sunday brunch in Bermuda can be seen as either a late breakfast or an early - and in this case extended - lunch.

Our party arrived promptly at 11.30 a.m. to find ourselves first in the queue. Good. No crowds to contend with and the opportunity to have a good recce of what was being served up before making any selections.

After being seated in the outside garden, we made our way indoors to see what was on offer.

Brunch at The Fourways Inn is definitely geared towards a lunch rather than breakfast menu. There is no codfish and potatoes here. In fact, with the exception of Eggs Benedict, there are no concessions to any ‘brekkie' items at all.

That doesn't mean to say that there's no variety. What Fourways has done is given the traditional Sunday Brunch a distinctly Oriental twist.

So, where to begin? For starters, tempting diners among the cold cuts, all manner of smorgasbord, mussels, a wide selection of salads and other hors-d' oeuvres, was an enormous platter of sushi.

Tasting fresh and clean, it was hard not to fill up on this Japanese delicacy alone, even though there were plenty of equally delicious-looking alternatives.

One plate down, hopefully plenty more to go.

For main courses, The Fourways Inn does offer a number of traditional dishes - there were several roasts at the carvery station, not to speak of steamed vegetables and pastas (although why stodge up on carbohydrates when luxurious slabs of smoked salmon piled higher than the eye can see are there for the taking? Thank you Dr. Atkins).

Again it was the Asian dishes that shined. The shrimp tempura, cooked to order, was fresh, light and crisp. Steamed duck spring rolls with Hoi Sin sauce melted in the mouth and the Thai Red Curry was succulent and tongue-tinglingly spicy.

The Fourways Inn obviously puts a huge amount of effort into its desserts, which can only be commended. Other eateries might skimp a bit here, hoping that diners gorge themselves on the main event and give the last course a miss.

While I might have been guilty of the latter, I manfully struggled up from my seat for one last round with the heavyweight pudding selection. The apple strudel was so sublime it went down without a fight.

Sure, there were a few misses, which is only to be expected. The giant mussels looked so tempting that this reviewer took more than his fair share.

They turned out to be tough and tasteless. The same could be said for the satay selection, which had obviously been sitting around for too long, and the large basket of English-style fish and chips was given a wide berth for the same reason.

Other quibbles? Well, I think it's a bit rich advertising a bowl of olives as a “tapas station”, particularly when, with so much on offer, the restaurant doesn't need to falsely over-egg the pudding.

Another irritant might be having to pay for service when diners have to get up from the table and serve themselves. Nevertheless, what service there was was warm and efficient.

When, at the end of the meal, we questioned why we had been billed for four orange juices when our table had only had one, the error was corrected with an apologetic smile.

New York chef Tony Bourdain, in his best-selling expose ‘Kitchen Confidential', makes some pretty disparaging remarks about brunches in general (“Old, nasty odds and ends and $12 for two eggs and a free Bloody Mary”).

Despite his observations, brunch here proved a more than enjoyable experience and the $140 tab - for two adults and a child, a couple of glasses of wine thrown in - is good value for money when you consider that you won't need to eat again for the rest of the day.

The perfect start to a relaxing Sunday.

Food: 4 out of 5

Service: 3 out of 5

Ambience: 4 out of 5

Value for money: 4 out of 5

Reservations advised.

Wheelchair accessible: yes.