Since September we've been telling you about the good and bad at a wide-range of Island restaurants ? most often for dinner, sometimes for brunch.

Three months on, we're still out there dining every week to find the best and worst in Bermuda's eateries ? and this time we're taking a stab at breakfast.

Food that tastes good and is good for you is not a mutually exclusive proposition, of course ? but eating out rarely is an experience that strikes that balance.

Even if you start off with a healthy salad, the impulse is to top it with a rich dressing ? or since you had the salad, go for the steak in garlic butter for your mains. Something like that. And it would be a shame, after all, not to order that cream-laden pudding to top it all off.

But dinner is not the only meal to watch out for. We'd argue that breakfast out is easily when one is most likely to veer off the track, health-wise. Of course, there are not that many "breakfast places" around ? save for the brunch spots, where you will certainly put on a pound or two.

We realise it may be unkind to bring up the concept of healthy eating at this time of year, with the round of Christmas parties, the turkey bought etc. ? but that is precisely the point. During this time of over-indulgence, we all think at least fleetingly of eating well (meaning well for our bodies), and a healthy breakfast may be a start.

For that, we have found just the spot. Here you can choose your way carefully ? with plenty of healthy options, and you won't be sacrificing taste either.

It is not just a breakfast place (being open from 7a.m. to 3 p.m.) but that is where we think it really shines.

H2O in the Washington Mall has only been open a short time, and you may not have even noticed it as it took over the premises of long-time diner Take Five.

Under new ownership -- and revamped (thankfully) with a brighter, yellow-walled sailor/windsurfing theme ? the all-day restaurant also boasts a new, healthier, menu.

For breakfast, all the staples are there: pancakes, French toast, bagels, croissant and a host of cooked breakfasts (all day English breakfast, Mexican and Bermuda's cod fish and potatoes breakfast on Saturdays) ? but there is a twist.

You can also go for fresh fruit and low fat yoghurt. Want a break from dairy? No problem, the restaurant will serve up your coffee, even your cereal, with soy milk. And wheat-free items are also an option.

On the taste front, we put H2O to the big test: would its breakfast past muster with a kid (surely the most demanding critic)?

Yes, with flying colours.

The pancakes were wolfed down ? well-cooked and not overly sweet. Fresh fruit served up on the side also makes parents feel good.

In terms of going for a cooked egg breakfast, we'd suggest, if only for novelty sake, to go for the h2o Mexican breakfast.

That is two eggs served sunny side up on toast with fresh tomato salsa (lots of lovely cilantro, and just spicy enough) and some cheddar to top it off.

Delicious. But warning, the portion was largish. For those who like their breakfast just so (and aren't there to watch the waistline) you can also build your own with side orders of bacon, sausage, grilled ham and even black pudding, along with eggs or omelettes the way you like.

Of course, the true, true test of whether a breakfast place is worth its salt, comes down to its coffee. H2O passes there too: good coffee, cappuccino, lattes, and lots of tea choices too. The bill wasn't bad either; we got away for just over $20, bearing in mind that a child eats less and costs less. Before beverage, breakfast at H2O will run you into the $7 to $10 range.

On the service front, H2O's staff (including kitchen staff poking their heads out presumably to see how their cooking is going down) was friendly and attentive. One staff member was overheard grumbling something to the effect of "it never used to be this way" ? but we expect growing pains are par for the course in this case. Take Five was a big hit for years with many locals, and it takes all of us time to get used to change.

It is a change ? so try it for novelty sake, and we think you'll like it.

The one real shame is that, because of its location in Washington Mall, H2O is not open on Sundays.

Hack's ratings:

Food: 4 out of 5

Ambience: 3 out of 5 (quite stark but an improvement over Take Five's pink d?cor)

Value for money: 4 out of 5

Service: 3.5 out of 5

Kid friendly: yes.

Wheelchair accessible: Yes ? go from the Church Street side across the westernmost upper walkway.