As the only place in town to go if you fancy a curry, it's hardly surprising that House of India is regularly packed to the rafters. In fact both dining in and take-out areas of the business were so busy last Saturday night we had to wait outside for a good ten minutes before we could pick up our order.

Perhaps the very size of the place may give a false impression that it's always teaming with contented customers ? it does after all occupy a tiny space.

And having seen off its only competitor a few years ago, House of India would probably do a roaring trade regardless of the quality of its food ? curry addicts, like any other addicts, need a regular fix, even if it's a pale imitation of the real deal.

So does it deserve its reputation as not only the only curry house in Bermuda, but by far and away the best? Absolutely.

For one, while the surface area of the restaurant may be limited, the surface area of the menu is vast.

There are more than 60 curry entr?es up for grabs ? everything from Baltis to Biriyanis, Tikkas to Tandooris. These are backed up by a supporting cast of vegetable dishes, breads and dals, all of which make up for the limited starter selection and almost non-existent desert menu (a universal truth of Indian restaurants it seems, although House of India does get credit for offering some 'Continental' puds obviously shipped in from somewhere else.)

Unfortunately, although frequent visitors, our experience of this extended menu doesn't stretch that far. Why? Well, like all curry addicts, we always seem to plump for a few regular favourites rather than venturing off into uncharted territory ? and for us that means heat. Forget your Lamb Passandas and Chicken Khormas, bring on Mr. Vindaloo and his sidekick Jal Frazi.

Of course, eating out in an Indian restaurant should never be reduced to a contest to see who can eat the fieriest food, but that's one of the good things about House of India ? even the dishes that come with a heat warning are not mouth-blisteringly unpalatable.

The Vindaloo certainly packs a pungent punch, it may even bring a tear to the eye, but it won't turn your face completely numb. If you're in the mood for something milder, the Balti dishes can always be relied on to satisfy while the Butter Chicken Masala is to die for ? smooth and sweet, but never mediocre or bland.

Vegetable dishes generally work well, substantial enough for an entr?e or, as a side order, the perfect foil for the spicier meat dishes. Not everything comes up to scratch in this department however.

While some dishes can be highly recommended (Sag Aloo, Baingan Bhartha and Okra Do-Piaza being some), if you order one of the mixed vegetable dishes, Captain Bird's Eye will make an unwelcome appearance at your table.

The only other hole to pick at comes from the Pappadoms, which House of India chooses to grill.

The deep fried version is so much tastier and, health reasons aside, there's no excuse for not investing in a deep fat fryer for this reason alone.

Still, it's a minor quibble.

Portions are more than generous (a naan bread alone will satisfy the heartiest appetite), while service is efficient and polite to the point of servility.

(Another universal truth about Indian restaurants. No matter where you are in the world, pop into a curry house and the staff will make it seem as if nothing will please them more than seeing to your own pleasure.)

Whether you're dining in or taking out, House of India always manages to provide satisfyingly good grub at satisfyingly good prices. No wonder it's such a hot favourite.