Another week, another Italian restaurant. Like its equally popular rival Portofino, La Trattoria appears to have hit on the right formula for a successful restaurant and, not surprisingly, it shares many key characteristics with its Bermudiana Road competitor.

For starters, the place offers reasonable to pretty darned good grub at equally reasonable prices. No wonder both joints are as tightly packed as a tin of anchovies most nights of the week.

Just like Portofino, ‘The Trat' is the ideal place to go for a midweek treat or, even better, a Friday lunchtime - the informal mood is bound to set you up for the weekend and if a bun fight does develop over the jugs of Chianti, the waiters are more likely to join in rather than arch an eyebrow in consternation.

Similar in so many ways, there is one notable difference between these two popular Bermudian pillars of Italian eating - a willingness to change.

While a night out at Portofino is like stepping back to the 1970s (posters of Tuscan landscapes on the walls, chequered tablecothes on the tables - not that there's anything wrong in that), La Trattoria last year decided to go in for a revamp. In came chunks of chrome, slabs of beaten copper and fancy designer lighting, to create a more upmarket feel. While some may question the changing of a winning formula, Hack believes taking the gamble has paid off handsomely, giving the place a little more pizzazz. (But do try to get your party one of the tables nestled into an alcove in the back, otherwise you are stuck in the midst of a maze of tables making you feel a bit like you're in a rabbit's warren.)

Despite the modern touches, the brick walled clay pizza oven remains the heart and visual focal point of the restaurant and as a result, it has a fresh, modern and clean look without losing any of its warmth, charm or character. It's a cosy, comfortable, eclectic mix.

The same philosophy - and adjectives - can be applied to the menu. Taste and tradition are still up there in dishes such as pasta ribbons with oxtail ragout (let's face it, you can't get more rustic than an oxtail ragout) but to a tired palette used to the all-too familiar tastes of Linguini Carbonara and Spaghetti Bolognese, the effect is, well, tantalisingly different - fresh, yet still full of warmth, charm and character.

Can you really face yet another bowl of Linguini alala/alula/ala Pesto? If not, why not settle for the linguine with mussels, oregano and pepperoncino. Or why not opt for the Gigli Portoghesi (pasta, broccoli, chourico and cannelloni beans)

An alternative to that tired-looking Lasagne? How about penne, shrimps and arugula.

Of course there's nothing wrong with the odd plate of spag bol, but there's much more variety in Italian pasta, as the Trattoria's menu proves.

More elegant dishes fare just as well. On the last occasion, Hack put La Trattoria to the test - New Year's Eve - a plate of plump and succulent lamb chops were picked dry, every grain of the neighbouring nutty risotto vacuumed up.

A lobster in cream sauce was accompanied with plenty of oohs and ayahs as it slid down while starters of mussels and a lentil soup (apparently, good luck when eaten on this night) hit just the right spot. Dinner for three - with more than enough wine thrown in, but without dessert and before grants/grass - came in at just under $135. (Not bad on a night when entry into a restaurant or club might set you back as much. Earlier in the evening Hack bought a round of three drinks at a certain Hamilton hotel bar and forked out $30 for the privilege.)

Good food, good value and, above all, good fun, La Trattoria deserves its success. If you haven't already done so, give it a try.