Hopefully spring is around the corner, which means dusting of the cobwebs ? if all the high winds have not done so already ? and put a programme in place to meet spring head on!

The high winds experienced over the last four to six weeks have caused damage to many plants therefore attention to broken branches and limbs should be a priority. Pruning to develop a good branch framework for the future should be the goal, thus assuring ? in general ? a healthy and productive specimen. If you have large specimen trees on your property it is advisable to have them inspected for damage that cannot be seen from the ground. Poor pruning techniques create problems in later life, and as trees mature the 'problems' are not always visible or obvious to a layperson. Mature trees are an important part of any garden and can make a bold statement to the point of being a major feature in the garden; if lost the void can be monumental to the perspective of the landscape in general. Notwithstanding the loss of the tree as a focal point, its removal can cause damage to the surrounding areas, which are also likely to be of a mature nature. It therefore makes sense to spend a little when it could save you a lot! Remember such a project requires heavy trucks to remove the branches, limbs etc and a backhoe to remove the root, not a pretty sight to see when tearing up a lawn!

Leaching of nutrients is a constant problem especially on sandy soils, if you are having trouble even germinating seed e.g. grass have the soil tested to determine its soluble salt content and level of alkalinity. In the normal course of events, fertilising the lawn or garden should be carried out within the next month. Pest and disease control needs to be monitored at this time of year, with disease problems being more prevalent when conditions are 'constantly' wet; new spring growth will be an invitation for insects to start chomping their way through soft growth. Observation is the best method of controlling such problems. Bermudas climate is such that from a seasonal point of view, summer and winter prevail, with spring and autumn often being non-starters. Getting a head start in March and April oft benefits the garden especially if we have an early summer 'dry spell', which can adversely affect new plantings. An application of well composted horse or cow manure to plant beds ? after weeding ? will assist in reducing weed growth, and can be turned into the soil once it starts to break down.

Lawns in many cases are being invaded by winter weed growth, and showing poor leaf colour; both being bullet points for action. Weeds need to be tackled as soon as they appear, if left they spread rapidly especially clover and sorrel. Chemical control can be found in several formulations from your garden supply store, but ensure that you have the correct chemical and formulation for your type of lawn grass; lawn grasses can be very sensitive to chemicals with disastrous results if the wrong chemical is applied. Lawn grasses will kick into growth on a steady basis once temperatures hit a constant sixty five degrees; to assist in their quick take off use a starter lawn fertiliser. On lawns, which have been, compacted weeds may be the predominant 'ground cover', spraying and verticutting or aerating will reduce the problem and encourage tillering when new growth starts.

Annuals have been badly hit with the inclement weather of late, but now is a good time to start sowing a new batch for spring flowering as well as completing the spring flowering shrubs etc. I recommend growing seedlings in small three-inch pots and planting them out when just starting to come into bloom; this method encourages them to fill in quickly producing a carpet of colour with reduced weed infestations.

Whilst carrying out the regular spring-cleaning checks give consideration to removing poor looking plants and or filling gaps with new material. Selection of plant material is important not only from an aesthetic point of view but also how it will grow and function in the designated location and in harmony with its neighbours. This applies to all plants, and can be the difference between a flowerbed and a bed of flowering plants. I will discuss this topic next month, with some of my particular favourites.