The Jasmine Lounge The Fairmont Southampton Hotel

In the six months or so that Hack has been trawling the Island?s restaurant scene, there is one eating experience that stands out amongst all the pretty darned goods, the okays and, yes, the odd disaster that this job throws up.

Eating at the Fairmont?s Newport Room last year was pure gastronomic heaven ? superb food accompanied with by an atmosphere and service of such elegant decadence we deemed it well worth the price of admission.

But could the Fairmont?s kitchens provide an equally memorable evening on a smaller, less formal, less extravagant and all-importantly, less pricey scale? Only one way to find out.

The Jasmine Lounge is certainly an inviting area. At once light and airy yet still warm and cosy, we were sucked in as if by magic from the hotel?s cavernous foyer. Walking past the stretched-out bar, we dithered over where to sit before rejecting the numerous plump sofas in favour of an intimate table for two.

After ordering a pair of cocktails (the gin arrived on a silver tray with its own pitcher of tonic - a nice touch ? while the Bloody Mary was strong and spicy, although hardly generous), we sat back and soaked up the atmosphere.

There?s something wonderfully soothing about being in a posh hotel, even if you?re just passing through. Having taken our seats, our smugness level increased when pianist Ron Lightbourne began caressing the ivories with nonchalant aplomb, filling the laid-back yet classy lounge with laid-back yet classy lounge music. Perfection,

And then ? the menus suddenly arrived, decisions suddenly had to be made? and a twinge of disappointment suddenly set in. Presented with mini, leather-bound booklets, we had to thumb through pages of high-priced highballs, aperitifs, wines, brandies and whiskeys before finally finding something we could sink out teeth into. And that?s when we realised the obvious. The Jasmine Lounge is a bar. It is not a restaurant.

At this point Hack decided to skip the appetisers (the usual mix of salads and soups) and shortcut to the mains.

The few entrees on offer, although presented as distinct options, were essentially the same dish ? mashed potatoes, grilled vegetables, and the choice of chicken, short ribs or fish as a swappable accompaniment, each and every one married to the same boring barbecue sauce. Not much choice there then.

New York?s famed Balthazar brasserie has produced a magnificent collection of its own recipes, braised short ribs being one of the dishes that restaurateur Keith McNally recommends readers have a stab at. McNally says of the cut: ?A long and gentle simmer breaks down the abundant fat and connective tissue, rendering the ribs tender and velvety in texture. Veal stock adds its own inherent richness.?

With this in mind Hack went for the ribs. What arrived was a portion of what looked more like dogmeat accompanied by a sauce that was more nylon than velvet. Granted the veggies and mash were fine but otherwise this was a major disappointment.

My companion was equally disappointed. A portabello mushroom and grilled vegetable sandwich promised to be delivered encased in wholemeal bread ? an important consideration for a someone on a strict diet. When it arrived wrapped in a fluffy, white loaf, it had to be sent back to the kitchen. Only then were we told that wholemeal bread was off the menu. Why were we not told when we placed the order?

When the final sourdough version arrived, long after Hack had worked his way through the gristle of his main course, it got a lethargic ?OK?.

Our bill came to around $60. Initially this might be considered reasonably good value for such an upmarket establishment, but considering what we had ? one sandwich, one very sad entree, and two drinks ? it doesn?t really represent great value.

The impression one gets is that the Jasmine Lounge is resting on its laurels. Cynics might say the place is taking advantage of visitors who are probably prepared to pay that little bit extra when on vacation, even if the goods fail to be delivered.

Undoubtedly it?s a great place to have a drink, but that doesn?t mean it?s a great place to have something to eat. Next time we?ll stick to the G&Ts and salted almonds.