The end of summer usually means the start of the hurricane season in Bermuda, to date we have said 'Hello Dolly', and on she went, but time goes by and what happens next?

Preparation is the key to reducing the effect of a possible storm, especially after the twelve inches of rain in August that has produced some luxuriant growth, just ready to be burnt with salt laden winds! Time may be more available now that the kids have gone back to school, we've all laboured on our day off and the west end has jazzed it up.

Pruning is the order of the day, especially for those properties that are exposed to the elements. As we are looking at some serious pruning, we need to ensure our tools are sharp and ready to cut.

What do we need to do a good job? A pruning saw is invaluable for cutting most size branches, whereas for larger branches a good chainsaw will literally cut through the work in quick time. For the incidental chores other tools to have on hand include a pair of secateurs and a pair of loppers and maybe a pruning knife for smaller prized plants. Whether it is a large branch or a small twig, the secret of success is to do it once and do it right.

If removing a large branch, determine if you can do it on your own or do you need help in dropping the branches. If a tree is standing alone and the branch to be cut is not overhanging property or other plantings, it may be viable to drop it yourself. If however, the branch in question is of such a size or location that it may cause damage, you will certainly need help, if only from a health and safety point of view!

When a large branch is to be cut, literally weigh up the size of the branch, and determine how many cuts it will take to remove the branch safely. Always remember to undercut before each top cut as this will stop snagging and ripping of the bark, which could be detrimental to the tree. Big branches will need several cuts to drop them so determine the manageable length you can handle, before you cut.

For bigger branches that need to be cut and do not have a straight safety drop zone, help will be needed to drop the branch in pieces using rope or, if an awkward size or shape, ropes to enable the branch to be dropped carefully and in the location of choice. This is especially true when the branch has been cut and the rope holder, who in turn controls the descent of the branch whilst if a second rope holder is involved they control the placement of the drop, takes on the weight.

The size of chain will dictate the size of branch that can be cut; blades are usually in the range of twelve inches to forty-eight inches. the most popular sizes for home use being in the twelve to twenty-four inches range.

For safety sake, always wear protective clothing when using a chain saw, which includes face shield, hard hat and long trousers, and strong work boots.

Anything worked from ground level can under normal conditions be cut with hand tools. Pruning knives come in a straight bladed style or a parrot beak style, the blade being between nine and eighteen inches. Sharp blades always cut cleaner and quicker than dull blades, and are not as tiresome to use.

Always undercut before making a top cut. Prune any dead dying or diseased wood for starters, and then look at removing any heavy growth to reduce the weight of the branch system. New growth will often grow and cross into the head of the plant. This should be pruned to create a shorter growth and the branch cut back to an outward facing bud.

By opening up the head of the plant and reducing much of the soft growth, the effect of wind damage will be reduced, as the wind will 'filter' through the branches. If no pruning is carried out, the full growth of the head acts like a sail and damage can be substantial to all parts of the plant.

Loppers come in various sizes, larger blades to cut through thicker branches and smaller blades for nipping back smaller growth. Again the same principles apply when cutting, that is cut back to an outward facing bud, and finish with a clean cut.

Secateurs and pruning knives are used for tidying up rough cuts or pruning small branches such as roses, hibiscus etc. Always keep the blades of tools sharp to stop snagging, which can happen so often with secateurs and a pruning knife.

Pruning is a good time to check out the general health of a plant for pests, diseases or physiological disorders, which are not always obvious by a passing glance.

Pruning helps in saving the branch structure in the event of stormy weather. If the exercise has to be carried out after the fact, the same principles apply, but you may have less to work with, and indeed you may need the chain saw to just log what was your pride and joy. But then we have all heard the saying, 'the deepest cut is the hardest cut of all'.

MALCOLM D. GRIFFITHS