Cruising the Gulf of Fethiye
Text and photos by Tor Eigeland
TURKEY is a vast, varied and magnificent country, full of adventure starting from exotic Istanbul in the west to the immense plains and wild, snow-clad mountains in the interior that stretch all the way to the Himalayas in the east.
Great! But not what I wanted. Turquoise-coloured warm waters, boats, bays, coves and uncrowded small towns and villages with cosy cafés, bars and restaurants was my goal.
On the Turquoise Coast near the Dalaman airport in southwestern Turkey I found the tranquil village of Gocek. The community is sheltered by pine-clad surrounding hills and from violent Mediterranean storms by 12 islands full of little coves and bays ideal for swimming, snorkelling and fishing. Further out is the beautiful Gulf of Fethiye.
Now a boating centre, Gocek has been spared the ravages of mass tourism. Almost unchanged since I first came here some ten years ago, it was a great pleasure to again stroll down the main street with its lively shops and cafés. The whole waterfront is full of the traditional wooden gulets for hire or for ferrying day-trippers to other villages, islands and beaches.
The people you encounter here are a colourful and agreeable mixture of local types, yachtsmen and visitors from all over the globe looking for a special experience.
I had the good fortune of sharing the chartering of the magnificent, fully-rigged sail and diesel-powered schooner Amazon Solo with nine people, all laid-back, good-humoured Brits and Scots who seemed ready to try anything.
Below the boat's deck were seven spacious, air-conditioned cabins with toilets and showers as well as a large saloon and bar. Drinks and meals were served on the aft-deck.
We never travelled far without a stop at some little cove, bay, village or beach for swimming and diving. The first evening was no exception. Chugging out into the blue waters of the Bay of Gocek, our skipper soon found a little cove with a beach surrounded by pine tree-covered hills.
We anchored and had our first swim in warm, crystalline waters. After that drinks were served, then a scrumptious dinner accompanied by very decent Turkish wines. The Turkish crew whose language skills were fairly limited ¿ limited in multiple languages ¿ had developed a way of asking the passengers what their choice of wine was: "redwineorwhitewine" or "vinoblanco-o-tinto" in one word.
Sailing east from Gocek into the Gulf of Fethiye, we visited the town of Fethiye on a Tuesday, the big market day when people from near and far come to buy and sell or just socialise. Bustling and picturesque, Fethiye is a small, attractive port tucked in between a broad bay and the cliff-face of Mount Crasus which represents the western end of the Taurus mountains.
A short walk up-hill from the market several Lycian rock tombs loom up high, carved into the cliffs. From here there is a magnificent panoramic view of Fethiye itself with the Gulf of Fethiye and its islands beyond.
Not far from Fethiye is a small island full of Byzantine ruins including a church with floor mosaics. Here I learned that Santa Claus was a Turk! He was born in nearby Patara about 300 AD. This little island with good anchorage bears his name: St. Nicholas Island ¿ or Gemile Island in Turkish.
Sailing west from Gocek, we entered the Dalyan River estuary where you rent a flat-bottomed riverboat and travel upriver to the town of Dalyan. Chugging upriver past the world famous Iztuzu ¿ "Turtle Beach" ¿ we stopped and climbed a short distance to Kaunos where there is a magnificent Roman amphitheatre, a huge Byzantine basilica and a Roman fountain house.
Most spectacular of all on this river trip through tall reeds up to the riverside town of Dalyan are a series of Lycian tombs looming way up in the rock-face on the left in a bend of the river.
From Dalyan a short trip up to the western shore of Lake Köcegiz is more than worthwhile for the spectacle to be seen at the mudbaths at Ilica. Worthy of Fellini at his most grotesque, on a warm day you see hundreds, perhaps thousands of tourists wallowing in glorious mud that is said to have healing qualities.
At a memorably spirited farewell meal with my fellow passengers at a Gocek seaside restaurant the question of Turkish entry into the European Union was hotly discussed. I stood up and declared my warm feelings about this country: "It should be the other way around: The EU should apply to join Turkey!"
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For further information look at:
or for bookings:
Web site and phone numbers:
T: + 90 252 645 26 82
F: + 90 252 645 26 83
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www.turkuaz-guide.net is a guide in English to the Turquoise Coast
If you have any comments or feedback, Tor Eigeland can be contacted at tor.eigelandwanadoo.fr
