THE IMPROVISATIONAL COOK –by Sally Schneider

I happily rely on formulas when I cook, basic equations and approaches into which I can plug any number of ingredients.

They allow me to improvise with whatever I have on hand or feel like cooking.

One of my favorite formulas is for warm main course salads that are substantial enough to anchor a meal: a bed of salad (which could made from mixed leafy greens, slaw, vegetables such as roasted peppers or potatoes, beans or lentils) topped with slices of warm, quickly cooked meats, poultry, game, seafood or cheese, which provide protein.

The warm topping wilts the greens slightly, and the natural juices form part of the dressing, fusing the two elements together. Nobody has written more eloquently about improvised main course salads than Richard Olney in "Simple French Food," who in a few pages outlined their conceptual possibilities, range of ingredients, even their metaphysical meaning.

Olney called them "composed salads" because they are just that — composed of whatever is at hand into a harmonious whole. Ingredients might include anything you feel works well together or have available — few foods are inappropriate. Composed salads are an ideal way to transform leftovers.

You can use a prepared mesclun mix or any combination of greens such as oak leaf, arugula, baby romaine, Boston, watercress and mache.

Vinaigrettes can be made with extra-virgin olive oil or more exotic roasted nut oils, such as walnut or hazelnut, in league with an interesting vinegar — balsamic, sherry, apple cider, pear, cherry and red wine, to name a few.

It is possible that one of the most famous composed salads, Salade Nicoise, was fashioned from what was at hand in a Provencal kitchen — potatoes, green beans, tomatoes, anchovies, capers, oil-packed tuna from nearby Italy — all bound together with good olive oil and vinegar. Indeed, the addition of few ounces of cooked meat, poultry, seafood or cheese can elevate a simple appetiser salad into a serious main course offering.

Warm potato salad becomes a satisfying dinner garnished with olives, lemon zest and thyme and topped with grilled shrimp.

Goat cheese gently warmed in the oven is dazzling on strips of roasted bell peppers tossed with pine nuts and basil. Warmed lentil salad makes a perfect foil for grilled salmon.

Figure about three to four ounces of protein such as beef, lamb, pork, chicken, duck breast, fish filet or shrimp per person, thinly sliced or artfully cut, or about 2 ounces of cheese per serving.

Elaborate on this recipe as inspiration strikes, adding elements such as olives, roasted peppers and other cooked or raw vegetables, or even other salads.

IMPROVISATIONAL WARM MAIN COURSE SALADS SALAD

4 cups (about 6 ounces) washed and dried mesclun or combination of greens such as oak leaf, arugula, baby romaine, Boston, watercress and mache

Additions (optional) such as:

1 ounce (¼ cup) roasted walnuts, pecans or hazelnuts, broken into pieces

1 tomato, seeded and diced

Thinly sliced fennel

1 small pear, apple or orange, peeled and sliced, or 1 fig, sliced

½ cup cooked green beans, beets or roasted peppers

¼ cup mild herbs such as chives, basil, mint or chervil, torn or slivered

VINAIGRETTE

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar, or 1 teaspoon each balsamic and sherry vinegar

½ teaspoon warm water Pinch kosher salt

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

MEAT

6 to 8 ounces boneless meat, poultry or seafood, such as flank or sirloin steak, loin of lamb, pork tenderloin or medallions, skinless duck or chicken breast, fillet of salmon, tuna steak, or peeled and deveined shrimp

2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil for sautéing or grilling

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

In a large bowl, combine the greens and any optional additions.

To make the vinaigrette, in a small bowl, combine the vinegar, water, salt and olive oil. Set aside.

Rub the meat, poultry or seafood lightly with the olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Sear in a hot grill or a nonstick or well-seasoned cast-iron skillet until browned on each side and cooked as you like it.

Remove to a cutting board to rest a few minutes before slicing.

Drizzle the dressing over the greens and toss to coat completely, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Arrange half the salad on each of two dinner plates (or four salad plates).

Cut the meat, poultry or seafood into thin slices as appropriate.

Place slightly askew on the greens. Drizzle any juices over the salad. Serve at once.

Serves 2 as a main course, 4 as a first course.

The flavours and creaminess of goat cheese are accentuated when warmed.

Since this cheese is very rich, about 2 ounces per person is ample. Be sure to serve an interesting bread on which to spread the warm cheese, such as slices of a crusty sourdough or walnut bread.

WARM GOAT CHEESE SALAD

8 cups (about 12 ounces) cleaned and dried mesclun or other combination of lettuces such as oak leaf, arugula, baby romaine, Boston, watercress and mache

1 ½ tablespoons balsamic vinegar, or 2 teaspoons each balsamic and sherry vinegar

Kosher salt

1 teaspoon water

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Freshly ground black pepper ½ pound mild goat cheese, such as Lingot or Montrachet, cut into 4 equal portions

½ teaspoon fresh thyme leaves or ¼ teaspoon dried thyme

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Place the greens in a large salad bowl.

In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, a large pinch salt, water and olive oil.

Drizzle the dressing over greens and toss to coat completely, adding salt and pepper to taste.

Divide the salad between four dinner plates.

Place the goat cheese in a small cast-iron skillet or a heavy baking pan and sprinkle with thyme and pepper to taste.

Bake until the cheese is warmed through and soft, but not collapsing, about three minutes. Using a thin metal spatula, place one slice of cheese directly on each portion of the greens and serve. Serves four.

If you have some goose, duck or bacon fat on hand, use it instead of olive oil to sauté the mushrooms.

Sometimes I add a few ounces of shredded prosciutto, duck or goose confit, or roasted dark meat chicken to the sautéing mushrooms.

WARM 'WILD' MUSHROOM SALAD

1 pound wild mushrooms, such as chanterelle, shiitake, oyster, morel or hen of the woods, in any combination

4 to 5 cups (6 to 7 ounces) cleaned and dried mesclun or a combination of greens such as oak leaf, arugula, baby romaine, Boston, mache, watercress

2 teaspoons snipped fresh chives

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar or fine red wine vinegar, or more to taste

Kosher salt

Freshly ground pepper

Trim the tough stems off the mushrooms and discard. If they are dirty, quickly rinse in a salad spinner and spin dry. Cut the mushrooms lengthwise into halves, quarters or eighths to make bite-sized pieces that still retain some of the mushroom's shape. Place the greens in a large salad bowl and toss with the chives.

Heat a heavy skillet over high heat and add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When it starts to shimmer, add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring and tossing constantly, until they are browned and fragrant, about 5 minutes.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and the vinegar and toss, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

Pour the mushrooms over the salad greens and toss quickly. Taste and add additional salt or vinegar to lift the flavours if necessary. Serve at once. Serves 2 as a main course, or 4 as a first course.

Sally Schneider is the author of "The Improvisational Cook" (2006) and "A New Way to Cook" (2001).