Marrakesh: a place full of many surprises
As I stepped off the plane, I imagined my first experience in Morocco to be a rocky one. I imagined fighting with incompetent airport staff who had lost my luggage, spending hours trying to relay hotel directions to a foreign-speaking taxi driver, then dedicating the rest of my evening to swatting large cockroaches away from my mouth as I sleep.
I braced myself, checked the conveyor belt and soon spotted my navy bag advancing towards me¿ seamless. I walked out into the arrivals hall and was greeted by my driver. He spoke competent English and already knew exactly where to take me — no more words needed be exchanged¿perfect.
I was shown directly to the front steps of the Riad Dar Baraka Karam, where I stayed for five days, and was led through dark windy alleys and bleak side-streets. I saw trash bags and litter scattered across the cobbled stones, a few small roaches in the cracks. I tried to stay positive, two out of three wasn't so bad.
The door to the riad opened and I was stunned. In front of me was a beautiful court yard, where red rose petals were liberally scattered atop butterscotch tiled floors. Fresh white linen was covering neatly made beds and traditional lanterns gave off soft lighting, appropriate after a day of travelling. "If this is Marrakesh, a place full of wonderful surprises, then I'm going to like it here," I say to myself.
Here is a list of other wonderful surprises I encountered on my five-day excursion in Marrakech. Who knows, maybe you'll find yourself exploring Morocco in the months to come.
Spice Market
Less than ten minutes walk into the Old Medina, is a lovely market filled with spices, carpets, scarves, hats and other goodies to bring home as souvenirs. Most of the sellers speak basic English, so you don't have to brush up on your Arabic, but a little bit of high school French will definitely come in handy here.
I was surprised by how friendly the people here were, not at all the intense situation I had imagined. I was even invited into someone's shop for afternoon tea. (Note: It is worthwhile to do some bargaining if the price seem too high, they can spot a tourist from miles away).
Café des Espices
A great find to get away from the afternoon heat and enjoy basic sandwiches and salads. From the balcony you can see the spice market, and in the background, if you look closely you can see icy mountains. (Note: There are two cafés with the same name in the area, but I hear both are equally as good.
Musée de Marrakech
Located in the Old Medina, the Musee de Marrakech is the former home of a defence minister. Presently it is filled with local treasures, art work, swords and daggers, jewellery and the like and takes anywhere from half an hour to two hours to explore, depending on your interests.
There were few English signs in the museum, but I enjoyed conjuring up my own ideas on the pieces.
Medersa Ben Yousef
Just two minutes walk from the museum, this landmark was used as a Quaranic School in the 16th Century. After paying an admission fee, you can wander through the halls. Though most of the rooms are bare, there are a few replica rooms set up upstairs. There is also a lovely courtyard and worship area. It would have been fascinating to learn more about this building, but I went without a tour guide and missed out on a great Moroccan history lesson.
Jema el Fnaa
You can easily spend hours here shopping, eating or watching local entertainment: musicians, dancers and even boxers. The square is vibrant; filled with many interesting sights and sounds, but a strong word of caution — hold on to your valuables, especially at night. On my visit I entered a large crowd to watch some local musicians, and felt two hands on my backside. (As I moved the hands moved with me, in the end I couldn't tell if they were looking for money or just admiring my form.)
Imlil Mountains
A huge contrast compared to the city, and a great place to get away from the hoards of people and just enjoy nature for a while. Imlil (the highest mountain in Morocco) is inhabited by the Berber people, the original Moroccan settlers who retreated to the mountains when the Arabs arrived. The hike was a bit strenuous, but definitely worth the effort when the fresh air hits your lungs and the snow-capped mountains are in view.
Note: The natives here are polite, but don't like to have their photo taken (they believe the camera will steal their soul), so be respectful and take snapshots when you get further into the mountains.
Kasbah de Tabkoul
A wonderful restaurant in the Imlil mountains, a great treat after a few hours of hiking. There was a fixed menu of lamb and couscous, exceptions being made for vegetarians, with large portions as well. As I refuelled for the descending walk, I enjoyed the wonderful scenery: snowy-mountains above and dry land below.
Fassia (in Nouvelle Ville)
I visited the new city just to have dinner on my last night in Morocco. I had no time to explore this modern area, but knew it was way above my travelling budget when I saw a Dior shop around the corner. The restaurant, Fassia, is more expensive than those in the Old Medina, but a great little splurge. (I ordered chicken tagine and caramelised pumpkin and felt as though I was eating my mother's Christmas dinner. Yum.)
** See tomorrow's Royal Gazette for Nadia's impressions of the food on her five-day Marrakech adventure.