family gatherings and feasting, and as with any festival certain dishes have become traditional.

Whether the Pilgrims really ate turkey, pumpkin pie and cranberries at the first Thanksgiving feast is a matter open for debate. However, these foods, along with corn, oysters and sweet potatoes, have become customary cornerstones of the American Thanksgiving celebration.

With Christmas following so soon afterwards, a change of menu at Thanksgiving may be welcome -- and who knows, perhaps in time these dishes will become traditional too.

If you are game for change, consider the following: *** Oysters generally make their appearance on the Thanksgiving table in the form of turkey stuffing. Here's a different way to include oysters in your celebration: OYSTER SOUFFLE 36 medium oysters OR 24 large oysters, shucked, cut in half, liquor reserved 3 cup hot oyster liquor Salt and white pepper Dash of cayenne pepper 3 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons flour 3 cup hot milk 4 eggs yolks 5 egg whites PRE-HEAT oven to 400 degrees F. Butter a 11 -quart (6-cup) souffle dish. Melt butter in a heavy saucepan, stir in flour with a wooden spoon, and cook over moderate heat for 2 minutes without letting the mixture colour. Remove from heat. When bubbling stops, pour in hot milk and oyster liquor all at once, whisking vigorously until blended. Beat in salt, pepper and cayenne, return to heat, and bring to a boil, whisking for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and beat in egg yolks. Gently stir in oysters.

In a large bowl, beat egg whites with a pinch of salt until stiff. Stir about 1 of them into the sauce to lighten it, fold in the balance. Pour souffle mixture into prepared mold, put in oven and immediately lower heat to 375 degrees F. Bake for about 35 minutes, or until the souffle is well puffed and browned. Serves 4.

*** In keeping with Thanksgiving's character as a harvest festival are the following two recipes. Chilled Pumpkin Cream is a soup which is a festive alternative to the traditional Pumpkin Pie, and the simple Gratin of Apples, Sweet Potatoes and Rutabagas is as pleasing as it is autumnal.

CHILLED PUMPKIN CREAM 1 can (1 lb.) pumpkin (OR 11 cups fresh puree) 1 cup chopped onion 21 cups chicken stock 1 teaspoon ground mace Pinch of curry powder 1 bay leaf Salt and freshly ground pepper 1 cup heavy cream 1 lime (or lemon), sliced COMBINE pumpkin, onion, stock, spices, bay leaf, and salt and pepper to taste in a pot. Bring to a rolling boil, then lower heat and simmer 30 minutes uncovered. Remove bay leaf, place mixture in a blender or food processor and puree until almost but not quite smooth. Chill in refrigerator an hour or more. When quite cold, stir in cream and taste for seasoning. Chill several hours more, or overnight. (This soup acquires further taste with some sitting.) To serve, place in chilled soup plates, and garnish with thin slices of lime. Serves 6.

*** APPLES, SWEET POTATO AND TURNIP GRATIN 2 lbs. sweet potatoes, peeled and cut in 1 -inch dice 1 lb. turnip, peeled and cut in 1 -inch dice 1 lb. cooking apples, peeled, cored, and cut in 1 -inch dice Salt 1 cup butter, melted Bread crumbs PRE-HEAT oven to 325 degrees F. Parboil diced sweet potatoes 10 minutes, drain and toss with other vegetables, add salt to taste, and melted butter. Put in a baking dish with a good tight lid and bake at 325 degrees F. for an hour, tossing twice during that time. The different vegetable cubes should be tender but still hold their shapes.

Place them in a gratin dish and spread to a layer between 11 and 2 inches deep. Sprinkle lightly with bread crumbs. Turn oven up to 425 degrees F., and when you are ready to serve, place dish in hot oven for several minutes, or until vegetables are golden on top. Serves 6.

*** There's nothing corny about the following recipe for Bacon and Corn Spoonbread, an untraditional approach to a long-time American favourite.

BACON AND CORN SPOONBREAD 3 cup yellow cornmeal 11 cups water 1 cup butter 8 oz. Cheddar cheese, shredded 11 cups cooked fresh corn (3 large ears) or 1 10-oz. pkge. frozen corn, cooked 2 cloves garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 1 cup milk 4 eggs, separated 10 slices bacon, cooked and crumbled PRE-HEAT oven to 325 degrees F. Combine cornmeal and water in a saucepan and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly until thick. Remove from heat, add butter and cheese. Stir until both are melted. Add corn, garlic, and salt.

Stir in milk. Beat egg yolks until thick and lemon-coloured; add bacon. Stir into cornmeal mixture. Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry and fold gently into cornmeal mixture. Pour into a lightly greased 21 -quart casserole or souffle dish. Bake for 1 hour or more until knife inserted in centre comes out clean. Serve with melted butter or syrup. Serves 6.

*** Cranberry sauce is fine, but cranberries are an extremely versatile fruit which add a certain tart savour to desserts.

CRANBERRY SHORTCAKE 2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 4 teaspoons baking powder 1 tablespoon sugar 1 cup shortening 1 well-beaten egg 1 cup milk Melted butter 1 cup ground, raw, lowbush cranberries 1 cup tart, pared and ground apples 1 cups crushed and drained pineapple 1 cup sugar Dash of salt PRE-HEAT oven to 350 degrees F. Sift together flour, 1 teaspoon salt, baking powder and 1 tablespoon sugar. Cut in shortening until mixture is crumbly.

Combine egg and milk and stir into the first mixture just enough to moisten well. Turn onto a lightly floured board. Divide dough in half and pat out each half to fit an 8-inch round layer cake pan. Brush with melted butter and top with remaining round. Bake at 350 degrees F. until shortcake appears done.

Combine cranberries, apples, pineapple, 1 cup sugar and dash of salt. Let stand 2 hours, then spread generously between and on top the shortcake rounds.

cut into wedges and serve with a favourite topping.

*** THANKSGIVING PUDDING 21 cups homemade dry bread crumbs 3 cup milk 4 eggs, well beaten 1 cup dark-brown sugar 3 teaspoon salt 2 teaspoons baking powder 1 teaspoon cinnamon 1 teaspoon nutmeg 1cup ground suet or butter 1 cup finely chopped dried figs 1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts 1 cup raisins 3 cup currants 2 tablespoons flour BUTTER a 2-quart pudding mold. Heat water in a pot large enough to hold the mold. Soak bread crumbs in the milk, add eggs sugar, salt, baking powder, cinnamon, and nutmeg and combine thoroughly. Work suet or butter in another bowl until it is creamy, then add figs. Combine with the bread and milk mixture. Dredge the walnuts, raisins, and currants with flour. Add to the mixture and beat very well to blend thoroughly. Spoon into the mold and cover with tight fitting lid. Put in the large pot and steam for 3 hours. Remove and let cool for 10 minutes before unmolding. Serve warm with Brandy Hard Sauce.