don't want to blow your diet completely. So how will you manage? One way is to eliminate the really fattening traditional foods and completely ring the changes with "slimmer'' festive fare.

Of course, you don't want to deprive your taste buds; so it's worthwhile remembering some basic facts regarding salt. Salt is not fattening.

Salt is basically a poison, and the body responds to it by making you thirsty so that you'll drink sufficient liquid to flush it out of your system.

Plain water isn't fattening -- so if you drink water after eating relatively savoury foods you shouldn't gain weight. It's when you reach for liquid in the form of beer, wine or sodas that you start to put on weight.

And now for the menu: Since there's no "traditional'' Christmas starter, why not try an exotic soup? -- oysters or mussels in a tasty fish broth, for example. (You can obtain the oysters or mussels tinned, in brine).

Lightly fry some sliced onions in a minimum of oil. Add fish scraps, cover with water, bring to a boil. Don't season yet, but reduce until the stock is really rich -- then season as lightly as possible.

If you want to thicken slightly, do so with some mashed potato -- not flour.

Add the oysters or mussels immediately before serving.

Bearing the main course in mind, you may prefer to avoid fish in the first course. In which case you can do exactly the same as above, but substitute completely lean, minced scraps of beef or pork instead of fish -- and add small, lean cubes of beef or pork just towards the end, in place of oysters.

For the main course, try something that is eaten even more rarely than turkey -- a whole salmon. This, accompanied by some of the more unusual vegetables, would provide a feast for any occasion. What's more, it's so delicious that you don't realise there are no really fattening ingredients in the meal.

Rinse the salmon and wipe thoroughly dry. Lightly brush with olive oil. Finely chop some shallots and slice some red onions. Spread half the shallots/onions on the foil, lay the salmon on top, and spread the remainder over the top.

Lightly season and liberally sprinkle with mixed herbs. Squeeze some lemon juice over the top. Place four or five bay leaves on top, then draw the foil up over the fish to enclose it. Bake for the required time.

To accompany this majestic dish, use elegant vegetables. Try asparagus or hearts of palm and in place of the ubiquitous potatoes, bamboo shoots or Jerusalem artichokes. Or, settle for rice mixed with peas and cooked in a light stock.

Dessert is no problem. The following looks pretty spectacular, but consists of little more than jelly so you can eat a goodly portion without fear. Buy some packets of flavoured gelatine and a jam Swiss roll. Make the jelly, but add only three-quarters of the boiling water recommended. Leave to cool.

Meanwhile, place the Swiss roll in the fridge. When the roll is firm, cut it into the thinnest slices possible with a sharp knife.

Line the slices along the bottom and round the sides of a 2-3 Imperial pint bowl (a small dab of honey to each helps keep each slice in place). When the jelly is starting to thicken, slowly pour it into the centre of the bowl.

If this is done properly, the resultant dessert is a visually exciting dome covered with the whorls of Swiss roll just under the surface.

The tiny bits of Swiss roll convince your taste buds that this is more than just jelly. Serve with low or fat-free synthetic cream.