symbol of good things: like luck and prosperity. Heaven loves the man who eats well, they say.

Now a popular ethnic experience in the West, Chinese cooking has also become the fascination of home cooks. Woks are on their way to becoming as common as barbecues in family kitchens.

Cooking Chinese dishes demands unfamiliar bur reasonably easy techniques and provides a fascinating culinary experience -- not to mention a delicious one.

Try these recipes and see! HOT 'N' SOUR SOUP 4 dried Chinese mushrooms, 1 to 11 inches in diameter 2 3-inch squares fresh Chinese bean curd, about 1 inch thick 1 cup canned bamboo shoots 1 lb. boneless pork 1 qt. chicken stock 1 tsp. salt 1 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. ground white pepper 2 tbsp. white vinegar 2 tbsp. cornstarch mixed with 3 tbsp. cold water 1 egg, lightly beaten 2 tsp. sesame seed oil 1 scallion, inc. green top, finely chopped PREPARE AHEAD: 1. In a small bowl, cover mushrooms with 1 cup of warm water, soak 30 minutes. Drain. With a cleaver or knife, cut away and discard tough mushroom stems. Cut caps horizontally into paper-thin slices, and then into thin strips. 2. Drain the pieces of bamboo shoot and bean curd. Rinse in cold water. Shred finely like mushrooms. 3. With a cleaver or sharp knife, trim all fat from pork. Slice as thinly as possible, then cut into narrow strips about 11 to 2 inches long.

TO COOK: Combine in a heavy 3-quart saucepan: stock, salt, soy sauce, mushrooms, bamboo shoots and pork. Bring to a boil over high heat, then immediately reduce the heat to low, cover pan and simmer 3 minutes. Drop in bean curd, pepper and vinegar. Bring to a boil again. Stir cornstarch mixture to recombine and pour into soup. Stir for a few seconds until soup thickens, then slowly pour in beaten egg, stirring gently all the while. Ladle soup into a tureen or serving bowl, stir in sesame seed oil, sprinkle top with scallions. Serve at once. Serves 4 to 6.

WONTON SOUP The Wontons 1 recipe wonton wrappers (see below) OR 1 lb. ready-made wonton wrappers OR 1 lb. ready-made egg roll wrappers cut into 3 1 -inch squares 1 lb. lean boneless pork, finely ground 2 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tsp. finely chopped, peeled fresh ginger root 1 tsp. salt 1 lb. fresh spinach, cooked, drained, squeezed dry and finely chopped, OR 1 10-oz. pkge. chopped frozen spinach, defrosted, squeezed dry and chopped again (about 1 cup after chopping) The Soup 6 cups chicken stock, fresh or canned 1 cup loosely packed fresh watercress leaves, OR 1 cup fresh spinach leaves, torn into very small pieces This is not the wonton soup you may have come upon in restaurants. The Chinese call this "soup wonton'' and serve it as a substantial lunch. The 10 wontons in each portion make this a full-meal soup.

PREPARE AHEAD: To make filling: In a large bowl, combine pork, soy sauce, ginger and salt.

Mix thoroughly, then mix in spinach.

To assemble wontons: Place 1 teaspoon or so of filling just below centre of each wrapper. Fold one side over filling and tuck edge under filling. Then, with a finger dipped in water, moisten exposed sides of the wrapper and roll up the filled cylinder, leaving 1 inch of wrapper unrolled at the top. Using fingers of both hands, pull the two cylinder ends beneath the roll until ends meet and overlap slightly. Pinch ends together firmly. As each wonton is finished, place it on a plate and cover with a dry towel.

TO COOK: In a 4- to 5-quart saucepan, bring 2 quarts of water to a boil and drop in wontons. Return to a boil, reduce heat to moderate and cook uncovered for 5 minutes, or until tender but still a little resistant to the bite. Drain wontons in a colander. Pour stock into the pan and bring to a boil, add watercress or spinach and wontons, and return again to a boil. Serve at once.

Serves 6 to 8.

WONTON WRAPPERS 2 cups sifted all-purpose flour 1 tsp. salt 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 cup cold water SIFT flour and salt together into a bowl. Make a small well in centre of flour and pour into it egg and cold water. Gradually combine all the ingredients with the fingers, mixing and kneading until a smooth, stiff dough is formed.

Divide dough in half. On a lightly floured surface, roll out each half into 1/16-inch-thick sheets about 14 x 14 inches. For soup wonton or deep-fried wonton (below), cut the dough into 31 -inch squares with a sharp knife or pastry wheel. Yield: about 4 dozen wonton wrappers .

DEEP-FRIED WONTON FILLED WITH PORK AND SHRIMP 1 recipe wonton wrappers, prepared according to the recipe above, OR 1 lb.

ready-made wonton wrappers, OR 1 lb. ready-made egg-roll wrappers The Filling 1 lb. raw shrimp in their shells 2 tbsp. peanut oil OR flavourless vegetable oil 1 lb. lean boneless pork, freshly ground 2 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tbsp. Chinese rice wine OR pale dry sherry 1 tsp. salt 6 peeled and washed fresh water chestnuts OR drained canned water chestnuts, finely chopped 1 scallion, including green top, finely chopped 1 tsp. cornstarch dissolved in 1 tbsp. cold chicken stock OR cold water 3 cups peanut oil, or flavourless vegetable oil PREPARE AHEAD: Shell and devein shrimp, then chop fine.

To prepare filling: Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat for 30 seconds. Pour in the 2 tbsp. oil, swirl around in pan and heat for another 30 seconds. Turn heat down if oil begins to smoke. Add pork and stir-fry for 1 minute, or until meat loses its reddish colour. Add shrimp, soy sauce, wine, salt, water chestnuts and scallions. Stir-fry for another minute, or until shrimp turn pink. Stir cornstarch mixture to recombine and pour into the pan.

Stir constantly until liquid thickens, then transfer pan contents to a bowl and cool to room temperature.

Cut homemade wonton wrappers or ready-made egg-roll wrappers into 31 -inch squares. Ready-made wonton wrappers are already cut.

To assemble wontons: Place a heaped teaspoonful of the filling in the centre of each wrapper. Dip a finger in water, moisten wrapper edges. Bring one corner up over the filling to the opposite corner, but fold wrapper at an angle so that two overlapping triangles are formed, with their points side by side and about 1 inch apart. Pull two bottom corners of the folded triangle forward and below the folded edge so that they meet one another and slightly overlap, to create a kind of frame around the mound of the filling. With finger moistened in water, pinch two ends firmly together. As each wonton is finished, place it on a plate and cover it with a dry towel. If wontons must wait longer than 30 minutes before cooking, cover them with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

TO COOK: Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat and pour 3 cups of oil into it. Heat oil until a haze forms above it or it registers 375 degrees on a deep-frying thermometer. Deep-fry wontons, 8 or 10 at a time, for 2 minutes, or until they are crisp and golden. Transfer to paper towels to drain while frying the rest. Serve attractively arranged on a heated platter.

Fried wontons can be kept warm for an hour or so in a 250 degree F. oven, or reheated for 5 minutes in a 450 degree F. oven. Yield: about 4 dozen wontons .

EGG ROLLS WITH SHRIMP AND PORK The Filling 1 lb. fresh bean sprouts OR one 1-lb. can bean sprouts 1 lb. raw shrimp in their shells 3 tbsp. oil 1 lb. lean boneless pork, finely ground 4 cups finely chopped celery 2 to 3 medium fresh mushrooms, cut in 1 -inch slices (about 1 cup) 1 tbsp. soy sauce 1 tbsp. Chinese rice wine OR or pale dry sherry 2 tsp. salt 1 tsp. sugar 1 tbsp. cornstarch dissolved in 2 tbsp. cold chicken stock OR cold water The Wrappers 2 cups flour 1 teaspoon salt 3 cup cold water 1 egg, lightly beaten Note: 1 lb. ready-made egg-roll wrappers may be substituted for these homemade wrappers .

3 cups peanut oil, OR flavourless vegetable oil PREPARE AHEAD: 1. Rinse fresh bean sprouts in pot of cold water, discarding any husks which float to the surface. Drain sprouts and pat dry. To crisp canned bean sprouts, rinse under running water and refrigerate in a bowl of cold water for at least 2 hours. Drain and pat dry before using. 2. Shell and devein shrimp, then dice finely.

TO MAKE FILLING: Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat for 30 seconds. Pour in 1 tablespoon of oil, swirl it around pan and heat another 30 seconds. Turn heat down to moderate if oil begins to smoke. Add pork and stir-fry for 2 minutes, or until it loses its reddish colour. Add wine, soy sauce, sugar, shrimp and mushrooms, stir-fry for another minute, or until shrimp turn pink. Transfer entire contents of the pan to a bowl and set aside.

Pour remaining 2 tablespoons of oil into the same wok or skillet, swirl and heat for 30 seconds. Turn heat down to moderate if oil begins to smoke. Add celery, stir-fry for 5 minutes. Add salt and bean sprouts, mix thoroughly together. Return pork and shrimp mixture to the pan and stir until all ingredients are well combined. Cook over moderate heat, stirring constantly, until liquid starts to boil. (There should be about 2 or 3 tablespoons of liquid remaining in the pan. If there is more, spoon it out and discard it.) Stir cornstarch mixture to recombine, add to cooking liquids and stir until they have thickened slightly and coated the mixture with a light glaze.

Transfer entire contents of the pan to a bowl and cool to room temperature before using.

TO MAKE WRAPPERS: Sift flour and salt into a large mixing bowl. With a large spoon or your hands, gradually combine them with the water, mixing until a stiff dough is formed. Knead dough in the bowl for 5 minutes, or until it is smooth, then cover bowl with a dampened cloth and let rest 30 minutes.

Turn dough out on a lightly floured surface and firmly roll it out until it is no more than 1/16 inch thick. With a cookie cutter, pastry wheel or sharp knife, cut the dough into 7-inch squares. When you have finished, there should be 16 squares.

TO ASSEMBLE: For each egg roll, shape about 1 cup of filling with the hands into a cylinder about 4 inches long and one inch in diameter, and place diagonally across centre of a wrapper. Lift lower triangular flap over filling and tuck point under it, leaving upper point of wrapper exposed. Bring each of the two small end flaps, one at a time, up to the top of the enclosed filling and press points firmly down. Brush upper and exposed triangle of dough with lightly beaten egg, then roll wrapper into a neat package. Beaten egg will seal edges and keep wrapper intact.

Place filled egg rolls on a plate and cover with a dry kitchen towel. Makes 16 egg rolls.

PEKING DUCK 1 5-lb. duck 6 cups water 1 cup honey 4 slices peeled fresh ginger root, about 1 inch in diameter and 1 inch thick 2 scallions, inc. green tops, cut into 2-inch lengths The Sauce 1 cup hoisin sauce 1 tbsp. water 1 tsp. sesame seed oil 2 tsp. sugar 12 scallions PREPARE AHEAD: Wash the duck under cold water, pat dry inside and out with paper towels. Tie one end of a 20-inch length of white cord around the neck skin. If the skin has been cut away, loop the cord under the wings.

Suspend the bird from the string in a cool, airy place for 3 hours to dry the skin, or train a fan on it for 2 hours.

In a 12-inch wok or large flameproof casserole, combine water, honey, ginger root and scallions. Bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the duck into the boiling liquid by holding the string. Using string to turn duck from side to side, spoon the liquid over it until all the skin is moistened. Remove duck, discard liquid, and again hang it in a cool place, setting a bowl beneath it to catch any drippings; the duck will dry in 1 hour with a fan trained on it, or 2 to 3 hours without.

To make sauce: Combine hoisin sauce, water, sesame seed oil and sugar in a small pan. Stir until sugar dissolves. Bring to a boil, reduce heat very low, simmer uncovered for 3 minutes. Pour into a small bowl, cool and reserve until ready to use.

To make scallion brushes: Cut scallions down to 3-inch lengths and trim off roots. Standing each scallion on end, make four intersecting cuts 1 inch deep into its stalk. Repeat at other end. Place scallions in ice water and refrigerate until cut parts curl into brush-like fans.

TO COOK: Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees F. Untie duck, cut off any loose neck skin. Place duck, breast side up, on a rack, set in a roasting pan just large enough to hold it. Pour 1 inch of water into pan and roast duck in middle of the oven for one hour. Lower heat to 300 degrees F, turn duck on its breast and roast 30 minutes longer. Raise heat to 375 degrees F., return bird to its original position and roast a final half hour. Transfer to a carving board.

With a small, sharp knife and your fingers, remove crisp skin from the breast sides and back of duck. Cut skin into 2-by-3-inch rectangles and arrange them in a single layer on a heated platter. Cut the wings and drumsticks from the duck, and cut all meat away from breast and carcass. Slice meat into pieces 21 inches long and 1 inch wide, and arrange them with the wings and drumsticks on another heated platter.

To serve: Place platters of sliced duck, heated pancakes, bowl of sauce and scallion brushes in table centre. Traditionally, each guest spreads a pancake flat on his plate, dips a scallion in the sauce and brushes the pancake with it. The scallion is placed in the middle of the pancake with a piece of duck skin and a piece of meat on top. The pancake is folded over the scallion and duck, and tucked under. One end of the package is then folded over about 1 inch to enclose the filling, and the whole rolled into a cylinder that can be picked up with the fingers and eaten. As a main course, Peking duck serves 6.

As part of a Chinese meal will serve 8 to 12 . If you plan to serve more than 6, increase the number of scallion brushes.

SPUN APPLES 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 egg, lightly beaten and combined with 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons of cold water 2 medium size, firm apples 3 cups plus 1 tbsp. peanut oil, or flavourless vegetable oil 1 cup sugar 1 cup cold water 1 tbsp. black sesame seeds PREPARE AHEAD: Pour flour into a good-sized bowl and gradually pour in beaten egg and water mixture, stirring constantly with a large spoon until fairly smooth batter forms. Peel, core and cut apples into eighths.

Arrange ingredients -- batter, apples, oil, sugar, water and sesame seeds -- within easy reach and set out a large serving plate lightly greased with oil and a large bowl containing one quart of water plus a dozen ice cubes.

TO COOK: In a 2- to 3-quart saucepan, heat oil until a haze forms above it or it reaches a temperature of 375 degrees F. on a deep-frying thermometer. At the same time, in a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of oil with sugar water, and bring to a boil over high heat, stirring only until the sugar dissolves. Cook this mixture briskly without stirring until the syrup registers 300 degrees F. on a candy thermometer or reaches the hard crack stage (when a very small amount of the syrup dropped into ice water instantly forms a hard mass). Stir in black sesame seeds and lower heat to its lowest point.

To make the spun apples: Drop 8 of the apple wedges into the batter, stirring to coat thoroughly. With chopsticks, tongs or a slotted spoon, transfer the wedges to the heated oil and deep-fry for 1 minute, or until they turn light amber. Transfer immediately from oil to skillet of hot syrup. Stir wedges to coat thoroughly with syrup, then -- still using chopsticks, tongs or a slotted spoon -- drop them one at a time into the bowl of ice water. The syrup coating will harden instantly and enclose each piece of apple in a clear, brilliant glaze. Transfer the finished spun apples to a lightly greased plate and make second batch in precisely the same manner. Serve apples promptly. The delicate candy glaze will soften if they are allowed to stand for long. Makes 16 spun apple slices .

PEKING DUST 1 cup shelled pecans 1 cup sugar 1 cup peanut oil, or flavourless vegetable oil 1 lb. fresh chestnuts 2 tbsp. brown sugar 1 cup water 1 pint heavy cream 2 tbsp. white sugar PREPARE AHEAD: 1. Combine the pecans with 2 cups of water in a small saucepan.

Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce to moderate and simmer, uncovered, 1 minute. Remove pan from heat, pour off all water. Add sugar to the pan and stir until nuts are evenly coated. With a spoon, spread pecans out on a sheet of wax paper and let them dry for 30 minutes.

Set a 12-inch wok or 10-inch skillet over high heat and pour in 1 cup of oil.

Heat oil until a haze forms above it or it registers 375 degrees F. on a deep-frying thermometer. Fry pecans 1-2 minutes, turning and separating them with a slotted spoon until sugar coats them with a rich brown glaze. Transfer nuts to a large greased platter and spread out in a single layer to cool to room temperature.

To prepare chestnuts: Pre-heat oven to 425 degrees F. With a small, sharp knife, cut a crisscross on the top of each chestnut. Spread nuts out in a single layer in a shallow baking pan and pour in about 1 cup of water -- just enough to film the bottom of the pan. Roast chestnuts for 10 minutes, or until they pop open. Turn off oven and remove half the nuts from the pan. While they're still hot, remove shells and inner brown membranes with a small, sharp knife. Repeat with remainder of nuts.

TO ASSEMBLE: In a heavy 3-quart saucepan, combine brown sugar and 1 cup cold water. Add shelled chestnuts, turning them with a spoon to coat evenly with sugar and water. Bring to a simmer over moderate heat, cover, reduce to lowest heat. Cook chestnuts undisturbed 45 minutes, or until tender -- liquid will cook away, leaving them quite dry. Uncover pan, turn offheat and cool nuts to room temperature.

Puree chestnuts in a food processor -- puree should be fine as granulated sugar. Whip cream and white sugar together in a large bowl until cream forms stiff peaks when beaters are lifted from the bowl. Spoon cream into a cone-shaped mound on a chilled serving platter. A few tablespoons at a time, sprinkle chestnut puree over cream, masking it completely. Arrange glazed pecans in a ring around platter's edge. Serve immediately. Serves 6 to 8.