it with great warmth and gusto.'' So says the founder of Greece's highly acclaimed cooking school, Kandra Kitchen, Rosemary Barron, in introducing her latest cookbook, Flavours of Greece, which is now available at the Bermuda Library.

Regional and national specialties have been selected by Ms Barron and presented with "the American cook's needs and tastes in mind''.

Here's a sampling: STUFFED EGGPLANTS WITH TOMATO CINNAMON SAUCE (Yemistes Melitzanes) Serves 4 These subtly spiced stuffed eggplants are easy to make. If possible, prepare and bake them a day ahead and gently reheat before serving. This gives the rich flavours a chance to deepen and brings out all the pungent fragrance of herbs and spices.

2 large or 4 medium eggplants (about 11 lbs.) Sea salt 3 cup Kalamata olive oil, or to taste 1 cup finely chopped onion 1 lb. lean lamb, finely ground 1 to 11 teaspoons ground cinnamon (to taste) 3 cup long-grain rice 11 cups fat-free chicken or meat broth, or water 1 cup small, dark, seedless raisins 2 cup finely chopped, flat-leaf parsley 1 large ripe tomato, peeled and cut into 8 slices 1 teaspoon sugar Cracked black pepper to taste 1 cup tomato sauce, made with cinnamon and parsley, and 1 cup water or 1 cup tomato paste diluted with 11 cups water.

For Serving Juice of 1 lemon SLICE off eggplant ends, cut lengthwise in half. Dust cut sides with salt and set aside for 30 minutes to sweat.

Heat 3 tablespoons of the olive oil in a deep skillet and saute onion over low heat until pale golden, about 12 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add lamb, raise heat, cook until lightly browned, breaking up any lumps with a wooden spoon. Stir in cinnamon, 1 teaspoon salt, and rice. Add broth, bring to a boil, cover, reduce heat and simmer until liquid has disappeared from the surface, about 20 minutes. Set aside.

Heat oven to 324 degrees F. Thoroughly dry eggplants with paper towels. Warm 1 cup of the remaining olive oil in a heavy skillet and fry eggplants over medium-low heat until cut sides are golden brown and skins are dark and wrinkled, about 10 minutes. Drain between layers of paper towels. With a small spoon, scoop out the flesh, leaving 1 -inch-thick shells. Discard most of the seeds and finely dice the flesh. Stir diced eggplant, raisins, and half the parsley into rice mixture.

Arrange eggplant shells in a heavy baking dish just large enough to accommodate them. Divide filling among shells. Place a tomato slice on top of each, sprinkle with the sugar, salt, a generous amount of pepper, and remaining olive oil. Pour tomato sauce and water into the dish and bake uncovered 1 hour, basting occasionally with the sauce. Add more water if dish is in danger of drying out.

To serve: Remove eggplants from dish with a slotted spoon and set aside. Pour sauce onto a warm platter, arrange eggplants on top, sprinkle with lemon juice and remaining parsley. Serve hot or warm.

PAN-SEARED BONITO WITH BEET GREENS (Palamitha Psiti' me Khorta) Serves 4 For centuries Greeks have enjoyed this ancient dish, which brings land and sea together in perfect harmony. The combination creates a colourful, succulent dish that looks enticingly exotic, but is very easy to prepare. Surprising as it may sound, a good dry red wine complements the flavours in this dish best.

4 bonito, tuna, or swordfish steaks, about 8 oz. each Coarse-grain salt to taste 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper, or to taste 1 to 1 cup red-wine vinegar (to taste) 4 bay leaves 2 sprigs of fresh or dried thyme 1 teaspoon ground paprika 1 to 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil (to taste) 1 lb. beet greens 1 large clove garlic, cut into thin slivers For serving 1 tablespoon small capers, rinsed WIPE fish steaks and rub with salt, 1 tablespoon of the pepper, and 1 tablespoon of the vinegar. Place in a shallow china/glass dish with bay leaves and thyme. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the paprika and 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. Cover and set aside for 1 hour to marinate.

If the beet greens are young and tender, with bright green leaves, just strip the leaves from the stems. If the greens are older, with dark green leaves, remove the tough stems. Blanch the leaves in boiling water for 3 minutes and drain in a colander, pressing out excess moisture.

Heat a heavy cast-iron skillet over medium-low heat, and add 2 tablespoons of the remaining olive oil. Remove fish from the marinade, discard bay leaves and thyme, and sear on both sides until fish is an even white all the way through, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a warm platter, cover, and keep warm.

Wipe out skillet with paper towels, return to low heat, and add 1 tablespoon of the remaining olive oil. Saute garlic until golden. Add 3 tablespoons of the remaining vinegar to deglaze the pan; it will almost immediately reduce by half. Slice the fresh greens into thin ribbons or coarsely chop the cooked greens and add to skillet with salt and the remaining 1 tablespoon pepper.

Stir with a wooden spoon until tender greens are just cooked, or cooked greens are hot.

Transfer to a platter and arrange the fish on top. Sprinkle with capers, remaining 1 teaspoon paprika and vinegar, and olive oil to taste. Serve at once.

BAY-SCENTED CHICKEN WITH FIGS (Kotopoulo me Dafni ke Sika) Serves 4 One 3- to 4-lb. chicken, cut into serving pieces, skin and excess fat removed 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon coarse-grain salt, or to taste 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 12 bay leaves 4 ripe figs, rinsed, or 4 dried figs soaked in 1 cup dry red wine or water for 30 minutes 2 tablespoons aged red-wine vinegar 1 teaspoon honey 1 cup dry red wine 1 cup chicken broth or water 24 Elitses or 12 Nicoise olives, rinsed and pitted For serving Sprigs of watercress RUB chicken with olive oil and 3 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper and place in a bowl. Sprinkle with bay leaves, cover, and refrigerate 2 to 4 hours. Heat oven to 325 degrees F.

Melt butter in a flame-proof baking dish over low heat. Add chicken, bay leaves, and 2 tablespoons water. Cover and simmer 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to oven and bake 30 to 40 minutes, basting occasionally, until chicken is cooked: if the butter begins to brown, add 2 tablespoons water.

Meanwhile, trim stems from figs, cut lengthwise in half, and arrange in a baking dish, cut sides up. Add 3 tablespoons water (or the liquid remaining from soaking dried figs). Bake fresh figs 20 minutes, dried figs 10 minutes.

Transfer chicken to a platter and keep warm. Discard bay leaves. Add vinegar to the dish and reduce cooking liquid by rapid boiling to 2 tablespoons. Add honey, wine and broth, and reduce to 1 cup. Add olives and heat to warm.

Spoon sauce over chicken, surround it with figs, garnish with watercress sprigs.

CINNAMON LAMB CASSEROLE (Arni Kanellas) Serves 6 Ideal for a lunch or dinner party, this casserole tastes even better if made a day ahead to allow the strong flavours a chance to mellow.

3 large eggplants (about 1 1 lbs.) Sea salt 1 cup small, dark, seedless raisins 1 cup aged red-wine vinegar or 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar diluted with 2 tablespoons water 31 lb. boneless leg of lamb 1 cup Kalamata olive oil 2 large onions, quartered and thinly sliced 2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped 21 lbs. ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced, juices reserved 1 tablespoon honey Cracked black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon ground cinnamon, or to taste For serving 1 cup coarsely chopped, flat-leaf parsley 1 tablespoon small capers, rinsed, optional TRIM ends off eggplants and cut into 11 -inch cubes. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons salt. Set aside for 30 minutes to sweat.

Combine raisins and vinegar in a non-reactive bowl and set aside. Trim off all fat and sinew from the lamb and cut it into 11 -inch cubes. Heat oven to 350 degrees F.

Heat 1 cup of the olive oil in a large, heavy skillet and lightly brown half the lamb over medium heat. With a slotted spoon, transfer to a heavy casserole. Repeat with the remaining lamb.

Reduce heat under skillet to low and saute onion until soft, about 10 minutes.

Add garlic, stir well, and transfer to the casserole.

Dry eggplant thoroughly with paper towels. Wipe out skillet, set it over medium-low heat, and add 2 tablespoons of the remaining olive oil. Add half the eggplant and fry until deep golden brown on all sides, about 12 minutes.

Drain on paper towels and add to casserole. Repeat with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and remaining eggplant.

Add to casserole tomatoes and their juices, honey, salt, pepper, 1 tablespoon of the cinnamon, raisins and vinegar. Add 1 cup water, cover, bake 1 hour.

Season sauce with salt, pepper, and additional cinnamon to taste. There should be about 11 cups of sauce -- if there is more, leave the casserole uncovered; if less, add a few tablespoons water, cover and bake 30 minutes longer.

Chop parsley and capers together just to mix. Serve lamb hot or warm, piled high in a shallow serving bowl, with the parsley mixture sprinkled on top.

FESTIVE BREAD (Tsoureki) Makes 2 braided or 3 long loaves During any major religious festival, this shiny glazed celebration bread is attractively displayed in every Greek cake shop and coffeehouse window, and laden baskets of the loaves hang from the ceiling of every bakery. The traditional shape is a braided or round loaf, but forming the dough into long loaves makes it easier to store and cut. It makes delicious toast, and it keeps well for up to 1 week.

3 cup packed light brown sugar 1 cup tepid (110 degrees F.) water 2 tablespoons active dry yeast 3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 21 to 3 cups unbleached pastry flour 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons milk, heated to tepid (110 degrees F.) 2 tablespoons olive oil 5 eggs Juice of 1 orange 2 tablespoons finely grated orange zest, briefly dried in a low oven and pulverised in a mortar with 1 teaspoon sugar, OR 11 tablespoons orange extract 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 teaspoon ground allspice 1 teaspoon fine-grain sea salt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 egg yolk 1 tablespoon honey 1 cup sesame seeds or 1 cup blanched slivered almonds DISSOLVE 1 teaspoon of the brown sugar in the water and sprinkle yeast over top. Set aside in a warm place until foamy, about 10 minutes.

Sift 2 cups of the all-purpose flour into a large bowl, make a centre well pour in yeast mixture. Knead and gradually add the 1 cup milk, remaining 1 cup all-purpose flour, and 11 cups of the pastry flour, or enough to make a light, smooth, and elastic dough. Turn out into a lightly floured surface and knead 10 minutes. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, and brush with olive oil. Cover with a warm, damp kitchen towel and set aside in a warm, draft-free place for 1 hours, or until at least doubled in bulk.

Beat eggs in a large bowl until light and frothy. Beat in remaining brown sugar, organe juice, orange zest, vanilla, allspice, and salt. Add to the dough with 3 tablespoons of the melted butter. Knead in enough of the remaining 11 cups pastry flour to make a soft dough. Transfer to a lightly floured surface and knead 3 minutes.

Divide dough into 6 portions. With palms of the hands, roll each into a 9-inch rope, slightly fatter in the middle and with pointed ends. Brush a large heavy baking sheet with remaining melted butter. Lay 4 ropes on it side to side, loosely braid, and tuck the pointed ends underneath so the loaf ends are rounded. Repeat with remaining 3 ropes, spacing the 2 braided loaves well apart.

To make long loaves: Either form dough into loaves on the baking sheet or place in buttered loaf tins. Loosely cover with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm, draft-free place for 2 hours, or until doubled in bulk.

Heat the oven to 400 degrees F.

Whisk together egg yolk, honey, and 2 tablespoons milk. Brush loaves with the mixture, sprinkle with sesame seeds and bake 10 minutes. Reduce oven to 350 degrees F. and bake 20 minutes longer, or until a beautiful honey brown.

Transfer to racks to cool.

SWEET CHESTNUTS AND LEMON CHEESE (Kastana Glykisma me Kaymaki) Serves 8 Make the lemon cheese at least four hours in advance for the richest flavour and texture.

LEMON CHEESE 2 cups heavy cream Finely grated zest of 1 lemon Strained juice of 1 lemon 1 cup superfine sugar 3 egg whites 11 lbs. chestnuts, shelled and skinned 1 cup vanilla sugar OR 1 cup superfine sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 1 cup milk 3 whole cloves For serving 1 cup unsalted pistachio nuts, shelled, skinned and coarsely chopped To make lemon cheese: Line a sieve, preferably plastic, with a single layer of damp cheesecloth large enough to hang over the sides and set over a bowl.

Whisk together cream, lemon zest, lemon juice, and sugar in a bowl until mixture is just stiff enough to hold its shape. Take care: it will curdle if overworked. Whisk egg whites until they hold stiff peaks and fold quickly and lightly into the cream. Transfer to the sieve, pull cheesecloth corners up and together, tie with string to make a bag. Hang bag over bowl or sink, away from heat or direct sunlight, and let drain 4 hours, occasionally giving the bag a firm squeeze to remove as much moisture as possible. Set aside, or refrigerate in the cheesecloth bag for up to 4 hours. Prepare chestnuts no more than 2 hours before serving. Combine chestnuts, sugar, vanilla, milk, and cloves in a heavy saucepan and simmer until all the milk is absorbed, about 15 minutes.

Discard cloves. Fit a food mill with the medium disk and pass the chestnuts through into a bowl.

Lightly spoon one third of the chestnut mixture into a glass serving bowl.

Don't flatten the top -- that would spoil its airy texture. Gently smooth half the cheese over the top, then carefully add half remaining chestnut mixture.

Add another layer of cheese, reserving a little for garnish, and finish with a layer of the remaining chestnut mixture. Garnish with the reserved cheese and the pistachio nuts. Serve immediately, or refrigerate for up to 6 hours.