Good food, good wine, good friendship
Imagine belonging to a worldwide organisation which has eating, drinking and camaraderie as its primary focus. Then imagine that, instead of attending your Thanksgiving meeting in frosty Jasper, Alberta, Canada you decide to hold it in balmy Bermuda instead.
Who could resist? Certainly not the members of the Calgary chapter of the Chaine des Rotisseurs, who have been revelling in a fun and food-filled week of Island life.
The man behind their visit is Norman Mastalir, general manager of the Southampton Princess Hotel, and a long-standing member of the Calgary chapter which was founded by his father.
When leaving Jasper to take up his new post, Mr. Mastalir told his comrades in cuisine, whom his hotel had always hosted for Thanksgiving, that he would really miss the annual event in his new posting.
"No problem,'' said Roger Baekeland, bailli (head) of the Calgary chapter, "we'll just hold it in Bermuda.'' True to his word, the bailli followed up with a phone call to Mr. Mastalir confirming the chapter's enthusiasm -- a collective state of mind which has remained undiminished throughout their Bermuda stay, despite the occasional meteorological tantrum.
Membership in the Chaine des Rotisseurs is by invitation only, and those fortunate enough to be admitted are professional or amateur gastronomes. Their objectives are to enjoy good food, good wine and good friendships.
As Joe Gibbons, press officer of the Chaine's local chapter, explains: "People in the organisation are very discerning. They have either come from a food and wine background; appreciate good food and wine, or simply enjoy the good things in life.'' Small wonder, then, that the Canadians have been treated royally in terms of hospitality while here. Apart from one golf game and a leisure day, they have savoured a wide variety of epicurean experiences, including a starlit, beachside barbecue (where the Bermudians shivered and the Canadians wore shorts!), a Canadian Thanksgiving dinner, an all-Bermuda night at a private home, and a spectacular, black tie gala dinner.
"Every Chaine meal should be a memorable event,'' Mr. Gibbons notes.
In order to meet that criteria, months of meticulous planning, right down to the smallest detail, and including such topics as de m-cor, entertainment, hand-written menus, and more go into each event.
"Absolutely nothing is left to chance,'' Mr. Gibbons assures. "A small committee of the Chaine meets with an executive chef to plan the menu, and may or may not make changes or substitutions. Merchants are also invited to submit for tasting wines they consider complementary to the menu. Again, the committee may or may not make changes.'' From a chef's point of view, preparing dinners for any Chaine event are deemed "the ultimate experience'', not least because they provide a chance to showcase their talents, knowing their creativity will be appreciated by people who truly understand fine dining.
Last Sunday's gala dinner at the Fairmont Southampton Princess was a case in point. The ten-course menu, which incorporated elements of Bermuda produce, began with terrine of foie-gras with loquat glaze and native banana brioche, and proceeded through such delights as a trio of Atlantic tuna, seabass and salmon quenelles topped with beluga caviar; roast petit medallion of veal tenderloin wrapped in balsamic cured ham and forest herbs; hibiscus and Surinam cherry gratine m; smoked Magret duck breast with chayote (christophine) beetroot chutney and a carmelized sugarcane rosemary jus, before ending with haberno cinnamon parfait on rum-flavoured black bean shortbread with tropical coulis and spun sugar, and ultimately friandise (petits fours).
Apart from the magnificent food, and specially created ambiance, there was kitchen artist Sarot Thepkan's breathtaking ice sculpture, which left guests in awe.
The Thai artist took one week of 12-hour days to create, and several hours, assisted by his brother Surath, to assemble, piece by piece, his frozen masterpiece: an outdoor dining scene, complete with furniture, human figures, plants, and all the accoutrements of eating: cutlery, food and wine bottles -- every one of them life-sized. The spectacular creation was mounted on a stepping stone-style patio made from huge blocks of solid ice with "channels'' of crushed ice in between.
"Sarot is very talented and the hotel is extremely fortunate to have him,'' Jan Slokker, director of food and beverage at the Southampton facility, says -- a sentiment echoed by Mr. Mastalir.
Mr. Slokker also had high praise for all of the staff who had worked long and hard to meet the high standard Chaine events demand.
"It was a very successful evening and I was very, very pleased,'' he recalls.
"It was a lot of work, but well worth it. The nice part is that everyone worked together to pull it off, and at the end they felt very proud to have been part of a pretty historical moment here.'' On Monday night, Canadian thanksgiving, Mr. Mastalir -- the youngest member to be inducted into the Calgary chapter, incidentally -- hosted the Thanksgiving dinner at his home, and on Wednesday night, Jose me Roy Froncioni, bailli of the local chapter, staged a "Taste of Bermuda'' night at her home. In addition to hors d'oeuvres prepared by chef Fred Ming, who also told the visitors about local cuisine, the buffet dinner included such local favourites as fish chowder and cassava pie. The guests were also served rum, and dark 'n' stormies. Entertainment was provided by the gombeys and steel pan player Mr.
Robert Simons of Tropicana.
"They were absolutely beside themselves with delight, because they really had a taste of Bermuda,'' Mrs. Froncioni reports. "They loved the cassava pie and fish chowder, and want the recipes.'' Last night, the Bermuda chapter entertained their guests to dinner at La Coquille restaurant, where executive chef Mr. Serge Bottelli reigns supreme, and today they will say au revoir over brunch.
From the Canadians' standpoint, the chance to be in sunny Bermuda under such special circumstances has doubled their pleasure.
"It is gorgeous here,'' Alberta bailli honoraire , Hayo Maier, enthused.
The Chaine des Rotisseurs was founded in Paris in 1950, and is based on the traditions and practices of the old French royal guild of goose roasters (a particularly coveted bird), whose authority gradually expanded to the roasting of all poultry, meat and game. The written history of Les Ayers has been traced back to 1248.
In 1610, the guild was granted a royal charter and coat of arms which consisted of two crossed turning spits and four larding needles, surrounded by hearth flames on a shield encircled by fleur de Lys and a chain representing the mechanism used to turn the spit. In 1950, a legend and outer chain, representing the bond which unites Chaine members, were added.
Good food The organisation, whose international headquarters is in Paris, has chapters in more than 100 countries worldwide. Members wear a distinctive ribbon at Chaine gatherings. Due to its origins, French terms are used for chapters ( bailliages ) and their officers.
All chapters offer fine dining events, often black tie, in the best local restaurants and hotels, where chefs create exclusive menus for the occasion.
This interaction between professionals and amateur members is a distinguishing feature of the organisation.
While each chapter hosts one gala event per annum to celebrate the induction of new members, not every dining experience is exotique. Less formal meals, such as picnics, barbecues and theme nights, as well as tastings, demonstrations and educational seminars are also arranged.
The organisation also publishes a full colour, high quality magazine, Chaine des Rotisseurs Gastronome, to which the charge m de presse (press officer) in each chapter contributes. In Bermuda, that role is filled by Joseph Gibbons.
The Bermuda bailliage was founded in 1989 by then-resident hotelier John Jefferis. The current bailli , Mrs. Froncioni, was appointed to the post in 1993, and first began attending meetings with her husband and founding member, Dr. Joseph Froncioni. A food and wine consultant who runs her own business, Gourmet Solutions, Mrs. Froncioni is also chambellan (second in command) to the bailli de le mgue m (premier officer) for the Caribbean and Atlantic island chapters.
Photos by Photographic Associates Frozen Fantasy: This spectacular ice sculpture -- the largest ever seen in Bermuda, was created by Fairmont Southampton Princess hotel kitchen artist Sarat Thepkan as the showpiece for the Chaine des Rotisseurs dinner. It took a week of 12-hour days to create, and was assembled with the assistance of his brother, chef Surath.
Simply Elegant: Smoked Magret duck breast with chayote beetroot chutney and a carmelized sugarcane rosemary just was just one of ten elegant courses savoured by members of the Chaine des Rotisseurs at the gala dinner held at the Fairmont Southampton Princess hotel.