published The Culinary Handbook, a tome containing 4,000 recipes for skilled and professional cooks plus hundreds of definitions. It quickly became an invaluable resource for information about any food topic.

Almost 90 years later, Jeff Smith -- popularly known on television as the Frugal Gourmet -- teamed up with fellow cook and culinary associate Craig Wollam to revamp and revise Fellows' original work.

The new version -- just in at the Bermuda Library -- contains what is claimed to be "the most complete collection of early 20th century American recipes available, along with turn-of-the-century wisdom about food and cooking''.

Here's a sampling of the recipes: BEEF STOCK Basic stock is to be used in soups, sauces, glaces -- in short, it is the kitchen fluid.

Bare rendering bones, sawed into 2-inch pieces Carrots, unpeeled and chopped Yellow onions, unpeeled and chopped Celery, chopped Ask butcher for bare rendering bones. They should not have any meat on them at all, so they should be cheap. Have him saw them up into 2-inch pieces.

Roast bones in an uncovered pan at 400 degrees F. for 2 hours. Be careful with this, because your oven may be a bit too hot. Watch the bones, which you want to be toasty brown, not black.

Place roasted bones in a soup pot and add 1 quart water for each pound of bones. For 5 lbs. of bones, add 1 bunch carrots, 1 head celery, and 3 yellow onions, chopped with peel and all. (The peel will give lovely colour to the stock.) Bring to a simmer, uncovered, and cook for 12 hours. You may need to add water to keep soup up to the same level. Do not salt the stock. Strain and store in refrigerator. Allow fat to stay on top of stock when you refrigerate it; the fat will seal stock and allow you to keep it for several days. Makes 5 quarts.

OXTAIL SOUP 2 1 lbs. oxtails (if some of the pieces are very large, have the butcher cut them in half) 3 cup peeled and chopped turnips 3 cup peeled and chopped carrots 1 stalk celery, chopped 3 cup peeled and chopped yellow onions 1 bay leaf 6 whole black peppercorns 3 1 cups beef stock (see recipe above) 1 tablespoon chopped parsley 1 cup julienned carrots 1 cup julienned yellow onions 1 cup julienned turnips 1 cup dry sherry Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste BROWN oxtails in a large non-stick frying pan (no oil is needed). Place meat in a 4-quart pot and add chopped turnips, carrots, celery, yellow onions, bay leaf, and peppercorns. Add just enough water to cover contents (about 1 quart). Simmer, covered, for 2 1 hours. Remove meat from soup. Strain vegetables, reserving broth. Discard vegetables and return meat and broth to pot. Add remaining ingredients, except salt and pepper. Simmer for 15 minutes.

Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4 to 6.

CHICKEN GUMBO Gumbo is strictly an American dish from the Cajun country. Do not be intimidated by the number of ingredients because this soup is easy to prepare and delicious! 2 lbs. chicken thighs 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 1 tablespoon olive oil Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 lb. smoked pork hock, sawed into 1-inch pieces 2 bay leaves 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and diced 1 medium green sweet bell pepper, cored and diced 1 medium red sweet bell pepper, cored and diced 1 stalk celery, chopped 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 1 cups chopped ripe tomatoes 1 teaspoon dried thyme, whole 1 cup chopped parsley 6 1 cups chicken stock 2 teaspoons file powder 4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce 2 teaspoons Tabasco sauce 2 10-oz. packages frozen cut okra, thawed 2 cups cooked converted rice (cooked as directed on the box) Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste RUB chicken thighs with crushed garlic, oil, salt and pepper to taste. Roast chicken in pre-heated 375 degree F. oven for 35 minutes. Cool chicken and de-bone it. Chop chicken meat with skin and set aside. Save bones to make chicken stock at another time.

In a 4- to 6-quart pot, place pork hocks, bay leaves, onions, red and green peppers, celery, chopped garlic, tomatoes, thyme, parsley, and chicken stock.

Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 1 1 hours until pork hocks are tender.

Remove meat and chop. Return meat to pot and discard bones. Add reserved chicken meat, file powder, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco sauce, and okra.

Simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Add cooked rice and simmer 5 minutes more.

Salt and pepper to taste. Serves 8.

GIBLET AND POTATO PIE This dish is very much like the Irish shepherd's pie. The use of rich giblets, however, make it much more flavourful.

1 3 lbs. chicken giblets (hearts, livers, gizzards) 2 oz. salt pork, chopped 1 tablespoon dried sage, whole 5 cups water 1 lb. chicken wings 1 cup dry sherry 2 tablespoons olive oil 2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and chopped 1 teaspoon dried thyme, whole Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 hard-boiled eggs, shelled and sliced 6 cups cooked mashed potatoes PRE-HEAT oven to 375 degrees F.

In a 4-quart pot, combine giblets, salt pork, and sage. Add water and simmer, covered, for 3 hours. Add chicken wings to the pot and simmer, covered, for 30 minutes more. Strain meat from the pot, reserving broth. Allow to cool. Debone chicken wings. Chop giblets and chicken meat coarsely and mix with the sherry and 1 cup of reserved broth. Heat a frying pan and saute oil, garlic, onions and thyme until onions are tender. Add to giblet mixture, and salt and pepper to taste. Spread meat mixture in bottom of a deep 9-inch pie dish. Top with hard-boiled egg slices. Spread potatoes over all. Bake for 45 minutes, until golden brown on top. Serves 6.

SMOKED TONGUE WITH SAUERKRAUT 2 1 lbs. smoked beef tongue 10 whole black peppercorns 1 bay leaf 4 sprigs parsley 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and thinly sliced 6 cups bottled sauerkraut, rinsed and squeezed dry 2 tablespoons brown sugar 1 cup dry white wine Freshly ground black pepper to taste PLACE tongue in a pot large enough to fit comfortably. Add peppercorns, bay leaf, and parsley. Add enough water just to cover the tongue. Bring to a boil and simmer, covered, for 3 hours. Remove tongue, reserving broth. When cool enough to handle, peel off tough skin (peeling the tongue is easy if it is still warm). Trim any cartilage or excessive fat. Slice tongue in 1 -inch-thick slices. Place slices on a plate, cover, and set aside.

Heat a 6-quart pot and add oil and onions. Saute until onions are almost clear. Add sauerkraut, brown sugar, wine, 1 cup of reserved broth, and pepper to taste. Stir to incorporate. Shingle tongue slices on top of the sauerkraut.

Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 1 hours. Serves 6.

LAMB CHOPS WITH MUSHROOM PUREE Puree 2 tablespoons olive oil 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 cup peeled and sliced yellow onions 1 cup dry white wine 3 lb. mushrooms, sliced 1 1 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 tablespoons butter 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour 1 1 cups chicken stock 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste HEAT a large frying pan and saute oil, garlic, and onions until almost clear.

Add wine, mushrooms and parsley. Cover and simmer until onions are very tender. Puree in a food processor and set aside.

In a 2-quart saucepan, melt butter. Add flour and cook to form a roux or paste. Do not brown. Using a wire whisk, whip in chicken stock and simmer until smooth. Stir in mushroom puree, Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm until meat is ready.

Meat 8 1-inch thick lamb chops Paprika to taste Salt to taste 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 egg, beaten with 1 tablespoon water 2 cups bread crumbs 1 cup olive oil Parsley sprigs for garnish SEASON lamb chops with paprika and salt. Dredge chops in flour. Pat off excess flour, coat with egg mixture, then bread crumbs.

In a large frying pan, heat oil. Add lamb chops and fry for about 2 minutes on each side. Do not overcook, as you want these tender and juicy.

To serve, put a pool of the warm mushroom puree on a plate and float the breaded chops in the sauce. Garnish with parsley. Serves 4.

MINCED PORK WITH FRIED APPLES 1 lb. white bread slices 1 cup milk 2 lbs. boneless pork butt, ground coarsely 2 eggs, beaten 1 teaspoon ground sage 2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2 teaspoons salt Freshly ground black pepper to taste 3 tablespoons butter 2 Red Delicious apples, peeled, cored, cut in wedges 1 teaspoon sugar Pinch of ground cinnamon Pinch of ground nutmeg 1 cup dry sherry Parsley for garnish REMOVE crusts from bread. Tear bread into pieces and place in a large bowl.

Add milk and toss so bread is saturated. Set aside for 10 minutes.

Place pork in a large bowl and add eggs, sage, garlic, salt and pepper.

Squeeze milk out of bread, add bread to pork. Mix very well until bread is thoroughly incorporated.

Grease an 8-inch by 3 1 -inch round casserole dish with 1 tablespoon of butter. Add pork mixture, smooth out evenly. Cover with aluminium foil and bake at 375 degrees F. for 1 1 hours. Heat a large frying pan and add remaining 2 tablespoons of butter. Add apples sugar, cinnamon, and nutmeg.

Saute 5 minutes over medium heat until the apples are just tender and lightly browned. Deglaze pan with sherry and toss gently. Add a pinch of salt, if needed.

While still hot, cut pork casserole into wedges and serve with fried apples.

Garnish with a parsley sprig. Serves 6 to 8.

DUCK STEWED WITH CHESTNUTS This is actually a very rich stew.

5 slices bacon 1 4-lb. duck, cut into serving pieces 1 teaspoon dried thyme, whole Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 medium yellow onion, peeled and sliced 2 tablespoons chopped parsley 2 cups beef stock (see recipe above) 1 cup dried chestnuts, soaked overnight and drained 1 cup port wine IN a frying pan, fry the bacon to render the fat. Chop bacon and set aside, reserving fat. Season duck with thyme, sage, salt and pepper. Dredge duck in flour, patting off excess.

Brown duck in the frying pan with reserved fat. Remove duck pieces to a 6- to 8-quart pot. Add onions, parsley, beef stock, reserved bacon, and drained chestnuts. Simmer, covered, for 1 1 hours. Add wine. Simmer for 10 minutes more. Adjust salt and pepper, if needed. Serves 4.

STUFFED EGGPLANT Eggplant is an ancient vegetable. When it is baked with this wonderful filling, the results are sweet and delicious.

3 medium-sized eggplants, cut in half lengthwise, top stems removed 1 cup 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 lb. salt pork, skin trimmed off and finely chopped 3 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1 cup chopped shallots 1 lb. mushrooms, chopped 1 cup chopped parsley 6 green onions, chopped Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 cup grated Parmesan cheese 1 lb. butter, melted USING a large metal spoon, dig out inside of eggplant halves, leaving about 1 inch of meat in the shells. Coarsely chop scooped-out eggplant and reserve.

Heat a large frying pan and, using the 1 cup of olive oil as necessary, brown eggplant halves. Do this in a couple of batches.

Heat another large frying pan and add remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, salt pork, garlic and shallots. Saute until salt pork is lightly browned. Add mushrooms, reserved chopped eggplant meat, parsley and green onions. Saute just until mushrooms are tender. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Butter a large baking dish and arrange eggplant halves in it, cut side up.

Fill halves with eggplant mixture and smooth over. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and drizzle with butter. Place in a pre-heated 350 degree F. oven. Bake for 45 minutes until tender and nicely browned. Serves 6.

PARSNIP FRITTERS 2 lbs. parsnips 1 cup milk 3 cup all-purpose flour 2 eggs, plus 1 egg white 1 tablespoon chipped parsley Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste Peanut oil for frying TRIM and peel parsnips. Cut into large pieces and place in a saucepan. Add just enough water to cov r. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. When parsnips are barely tender, drain well. In a food processor, puree parsnips with remaining ingredients, except the oil.

Ladle about 1 1 ounces of batter into a hot, non-stick frying pan with a little oil. Spread out batter to 3 inches in diameter and cook over medium heat. Fry a few minutes on each side until well browned. (An electric frying pan works great set at 375 degrees F.) Remove the little pancakes to drain on paper towels. Sprinkle with salt and serve. Makes about 2 dozen.