with nowhere being more than a mile from the sea? In addition to this natural preference, the current culinary emphasis on light, nutritious, fresh, and easy to prepare meals means that Fish and Shellfish -- the latest cookbook to reach the Bermuda Library -- will be a popular choice.

Its 105 pages of recipes are divided into various styles of preparation, including deep-frying, poaching, baking and smoking.

Sauces, appetisers, and even Japanese sushi recipes, are included among the many tasty dishes listed, and there are also step-by-step pictorial instructions on how to clean and prepare various forms of seafood, including crabs and oysters.

Here's a sampling from this attractive book: FISH AND CHIPS Fish and chips are to the British what hamburgers are to Americans. Although you may find different species of fish at the fish-and-chips stand, the cooking method is the same for all and all receive a sprinkle of malt vinegar.

3 cup flour 1 egg yolk 4 tablespoons beer 4 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon salt 1 egg white Oil, for deep-frying 1 lb. haddock, boned, skinned, and cut into 3-by 5-inch pieces Potatoes 1. Put flour in a medium bowl. In another medium bowl, combine yolk, beer, water, and salt. Pour liquid into flour, whisking until smooth. Allow to rest for 30 minutes.

2. Beat egg white to soft peaks, then fold into batter.

3. In a large pot heat oil to 375 degrees F. Dip fish into batter, then deep-fry until golden brown (4 to 5 minutes). Drain. Makes 30 pieces.

Chips: Cut potatoes into 1 -inch strips. Deep-fry in the same oil used for the fish.

HOT-AND-SOUR SHARK Shark is a wonderfully full-flavoured and versatile fish that lends itself to many types of cooking. The technique of coating and partially cooking the fish is called velveting and is common in Chinese cuisine. Serve with steamed rice.

2 cups water Zest of 1 orange, julienned (use orange part of rind only) 2 egg whites 2 tablespoons dry sherry 3 tablespoons cornstarch 4 tablespoons peanut oil 1 teaspoon salt 1 lb. shark, cut in 1- by 1 -inch cubes Oil, for deep-frying 1 cup orange juice 1 cup chicken stock 4 tablespoons rice vinegar 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons soy sauce 1 cup julienned ginger (2-inch strips) 2 dried red chilis, seeded and minced 1 cup slivered green onion (3-inch strips) 1 cup seeded, julienned red bell pepper 2 tablespoons minced green onion 1. Bring water to a boil. Add orange zest, boil 1 minute. Remove zest with slotted spoon, drain, and reserve.

2. Combine egg whites, sherry, 2 tablespoons of the cornstarch, 2 tablespoons of the peanut oil, and salt. Add shark pieces to mixture and coat well.

3. In a large pot, heat oil for deep-frying to 350 degrees F. Add shark pieces and fry until golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove shark and drain on paper towels. Keep warm.

4. In small bowl combine orange juice, chicken stock, vinegar, remaining 1 tablespoon cornstarch, sugar and soy sauce. In wok heat remaining 2 tablespoons peanut oil. Add ginger and chilis; stir-fry 1 minute. Add the 1 cup slivered green onion and bell pepper; stir-fry 1 minute. Add orange juice mixture; stir until it thickens.

5. Return shark to wok, add zest, toss, and reheat. Garnish with the 2 tablespoons minced green onion and serve immediately. Serves 4 to 6.

SOLE WITH ALMONDS, PINE NUTS, AND WHITE RAISINS This is a variation of a Venetian dish called "sfogie in soar,'' which means savoury soles.

1 cup white raisins 2 cups dry white wine 5 tablespoons clarified butter 1 cup slivered almonds 6 sole fillets 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper 4 tablespoons flour 3 tablespoons unsalted butter 2 tablespoons minced shallots Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 2 tablespoons pine nuts 1. Soak raisins in white wine for 30 minutes. Remove raisins and reserve both wine and raisins.

2. In saute pan heat clarified butter. Add almonds, saute until they begin to colour. Remove with slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

3. Sprinkle fish with salt, pepper and flour. Add fish to pan and saute each side to a golden brown. Remove fish to a warm platter. Add butter to pan. When butter has melted, add shallots and cook until soft. Add wine and raisins.

Cook for 2 to 3 minutes and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add pine nuts to sauce and pour over fish. Serves 6.

GRILLED TUNA A summertime specialty, this dish is a whole meal in itself. The variety of vegetables creates a colourful medley. To vary the effect substitute broccoli, carrots, cauliflower, celery, sugar snap peas, baby squash, or another vegetable that seems enticing. Vary the quantities of individual ingredients according to your taste.

1 bunch asparagus 2 bulbs fennel, quartered 1 lb. snow peas 8 quarts boiling salted water 3 red, yellow, or green bell peppers 1 basket cherry tomatoes 4 tuna steaks (6 to 8 oz. each) Olive oil Vinaigrette Sauce 1 cup vegetable oil 1 cup fruity olive oil 1 cup red wine vinegar 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 1 clove garlic, minced 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1. Prepare coals. Trim asparagus, fennel, and snow peas. Blanch these vegetables in the boiling water, then plunge them into ice water to stop cooking. Drain and set aside.

2. Core and cut peppers into strips. Remove stems from tomatoes and leave whole. Set aside.

3. Brush steaks with oil and grill 3 to 7 minutes per side; grilling time depends on size of steaks.

4. Place tuna steaks on platter. Surround with vegetables. Drizzle Vinaigrette Sauce over top. Serves 6 to 8.

Vinaigrette Sauce: Combine oils, vinegars, mustard, garlic, salt, and pepper.

Mix well.

SWORDFISH PAILLARD WITH SALSA 6 swordfish steaks, cut 1 inch thick 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper Salsa 3 large tomatoes, chopped and drained 1 small onion, chopped fine 2 to 4 serrano or jalapeno chilis, chopped fine, including seeds 1 tablespoon lime juice, or more to taste 1 bunch cilantro Salt to taste 1. Pre-heat broiler. Brush fish with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper.

2. Broil fish 4 inches from heat for 1 1 minutes. Turning the fish is unnecessary. Serve with Salsa. Serves 6.

Salsa: Combine tomatoes, onion, peppers, lime juice, cilantro, and salt.

Correct seasoning, adding more lime juice and salt if needed.

ESCABECHE Escabeche is often served in the West Indies and in South America. The fish is partially cooked before being put into the marinade.

1 cup peanut oil 2 cups thinly sliced onion 1 large clove garlic, minced 2 large eggs 1 tablespoon cold water 2 lbs. fish, cut in 4-inch pieces 2 cups fine bread crumbs 1 large red bell pepper, seeded and sliced 1 whole clove, crushed 1 bay leaf, crushed 1 cup very light red wine vinegar 1 cup water Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste 1. In a large skillet heat oil. Add onion and garlic, cook until soft. Do not let ingredients brown. Remove from pan with slotted spoon, leaving oil in pan.

2. Beat eggs with water. Pat fish dry with paper towels, then dip into beaten egg mixture. Dip into bread crumbs and saute fish in oil used for onions and garlic. Cook about 1 1 minutes on each side. Remove from heat and place fish in a large baking dish.

3. In a small saucepan place red pepper, clove, bay leaf, vinegar, 1 cup water, salt and pepper. Cook over medium heat for 3 minutes. Remove from heat and let cool. Pour over fish in baking dish and chill for several hours. Serve cold. Serves 6 to 8.

CRAYFISH PIE 1 lb. steamed crayfish tails, peeled Cayenne pepper, black pepper, salt to taste 3 onions, finely chopped 1 cup peanut oil 1 teaspoon garlic, pressed 1 tablespoon finely chopped green bell pepper 1 cup butter 2 to 3 tablespoons crayfish fat* 1 tablespoon paprika 1 cup water 1 tablespoon cornstarch 1 cup finely chopped green onion 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley Hot pepper sauce to taste *(available frozen from fish markets) Pastry 3 cups flour, sifted 2 cup unsalted butter, softened 2 egg yolks, at room temperature 1 teaspoon salt 6 to 10 tablespoons ice water 1. Prepare pastry. In a medium bowl season crayfish with cayenne, black pepper, and salt. Toss and set aside. In a large, heavy pan, saute onion in peanut oil without browning. Add garlic and green pepper; saute lightly. Add butter and crayfish fat, reduce heat, and cook until oil rises. Add seasoned crayfish and paprika, stirring well. Add 1 cup of the water, increased temperature, and heat through.

2. Mix cornstarch with about 2 tablespoons of remaining water. When the crayfish gravy begins to bubble around the sides of the pan, add as much cornstarch mixture as is necessary to give body to the gravy. Stir well, add green onion, parsley, and hot-pepper sauce. Correct seasonings. Do not overcook crayfish or they will become touch.

3. Divide pastry into two pieces, one slightly larger then the other. Roll larger piece out to fit a 9- or 10-inch pie pan and use it to line the pan.

Pour crayfish mixture into pie shell. Roll remaining pastry to fit over pie, and place it on the pie. Refrigerating or freezing the unbaked pie enhances flavour. To store, wrap tightly in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes and as long as 2 days. Defrost the pie before baking.

4. To bake, pre-heat oven to 350 degrees F. Bake pie for 15 minutes, then lower temperature to 300 degrees F until golden brown, about 12 minutes.

Serves 8.

Pastry: Place flour on marble board or flat surface. Make a well in flour and place butter, yolks, salt, and 4 tablespoons ice water in the well. Work butter, salt, and yolks together with fingertips of one hand. Gradually work in flour by cutting mixture with a pastry scraper. (This indispensable tool makes all of the difference in preparing pie crust. It resembles a spatula without a handle). Add water a tablespoon at a time if crumbs are dry. When pastry resembles large peas, push dough away with the heel of one hand until all of the dough has been smeared across the board. Gather dough up using the scraper. Press dough into a ball and refrigerate until ready to roll out.

Makes 1 double-crust 9- to 10-inch pie shell.

SAUCES Though most fish and shellfish can be served with just a little butter and lemon, a sauce can transform the simplest dish into something quite special.

Sauces run the gamut from the simple to the sophisticated. Paying attention to ingredients and following the recipe will assure a grand result by even an inexperienced cook. Here's a sampling: WHITE BUTTER SAUCE 1 cup dry white wine 1 cup white wine vinegar 3 shallots, finely minced 1 to 1 1 cups unsalted butter, diced Kosher salt and freshly ground white pepper IN a medium pan boil wine, vinegar, and shallots until shallots are barely moist. Remove pan from heat and let cool for a few minutes. Moving pan off and onto very low heat as needed, whisk in butter bit by bit until a creamy emulsion forms. Season with salt and pepper. Makes 1 1 cups.

PAPAYA BUTTER 1 tablespoon unsalted butter 1 large ripe papaya, peeled, seeded, and chopped 3 tablespoons white wine 1 cup unsalted butter, softened IN a small pan melt 1 tbsp. butter. Add papaya and white wine; cook until papaya is soft. Cool and mix with 1 cup softened butter. Form into a cylinder and chill. Makes 1 cup.

FENNEL BUTTER 1 cup finely chopped fresh fennel 1 cup boiling water 1 cup unsalted butter, softened COOK fennel in the boiling water for 1 minute. Drain and add to but ter. Form into a cylinder and chill. Makes 3 cup.

GRILLED SALMON ... Just one of many attractive ways to prepare seafood, as detailed in Fish & Shellfish.