many intriguing places in between. I traveled from one end to the other in search of interesting gifts for the season. If you have the money the gift or holiday object of your desire is somewhere in Bermuda.

Let us begin in St. George's. The atmosphere here is relaxed and casual as one walks down the quaint streets and alleys unhurried.

Parking is not a problem and it is totally free! This is the first shopping bargain. The best place to park is off of Water Street, near the Square, in the large parking lot between Belco and Chick's. One can park here all day and it is free. In the heart of town, and around town, one can only park for one hour between 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. in designated spaces.

One of the first places you might like to start your shopping adventure is the Bridge House Gallery located near Water Street and behind Town Hall. It is believed to be one of the oldest Bermudian art and craft galleries and offers a fine selection of locally made items such as cedarwork, enamel jewellery, and banana dolls.

My favourite attraction here is the art of Jill Amos Raine , a prominent Bermudian watercolourist, who has a permanent display at Bridge House of original paintings, prints and note cards. I particularly admire her works about St. George's. Her latest works are paintings of Elbow Beach and Tucker's Town overlooking Castle Harbour.

David Raine , her husband, is a local author and signed copies of his books make lovely presents. His most recent book is, "Solved! The Greatest Sea Mystery of all'' which came out early this year. Mr. Raine said: "It took me nine years of serious research for this one. It is about the disappearance of Atalanta in the year of 1880.'' Downstairs is the Antique Shop where an extensive collection of English items are shown.

Crisson Jewellers, next door has a fine collection watches from around the world such as Rolex, Ebel, Cartier, and Seiko to list a few. Look at the Bermuda jewellry collection in gold, silver and coral.

Across the square is Carole Holding's shop of pastel prints. She offers a selection of signed lithographs in limited and open editions.

Walking up the street towards town will lead you to the heart of St. George's and one of the most popular stores in town, Robertson's Drug Store , originally built by the late Mr. Frederick Robertson in 1921 and currently owned by his daughter Rita Rothwell. They are open daily from 8 am to 7.30 pm except Sunday which opens from 4 p.m. to 6 p.m. Mrs. Rothwell said, "We are heavily stocked for Christmas with toys and craft games downstairs along with book bags, and handsome Parker pens. Upstairs we offer fine chocolates, biscuits and a terrific selection of children's books and Christmas cards. We have an excellent stock of Christmas wrapping paper, smoking pipes, perfume, and fine English soaps and powders.'' Beside Robertson's is the Frangipani a clothing store named after the island fragrant blossoms. The owner, Ms. Linda Henry, provides vibrant, fashionable, casual wear for the day or evening.

Nicholas, the store's dapper chap, will be sitting outside in his usual chair on December 4 in honour of the Bermuda National Trust Christmas Walk of historic St. George's buildings by candlelight.

Just down the road on Water Street take a moment to browse in The Book Cellar and get acquainted with Gill White the owner.

Across from here is Somers Wharf on the harbour's side. It's always nice walking along here as many visiting yachts are tied.

Also Wharf Tavern is a delightful place to stop for alfresco lunch, a hot tea and desert or a refreshing cold drink. I adore their home made fruit punch.

If you are on a budget or in a hurry walk on over to Dowling's Marine and grab a cold soda or bottled water to quinch your thirst. The Dowlings are nice, friendly folks who know a lot about St. George's. It's only a brief walk back to Somers Wharf to the mini branches of the top Hamilton stores such as Trimingham's, A.S. Cooper, The English Sports Shop and Davison's.

Davison's has a great selection of cottons from Peru and most of their clothing is 50% off for the next few weeks. If you are into sailing and yachting or just want the sporty look, shop here for your polo shirts and cotton sweaters with stitched sailboats.

Mr. Norman Davison advised, "Peru produces the finest cotton found anywhere in the world. Because of this, we manufacture approximately 80% of our cotton goods in Peru. This allows Davison's to give our customer top quality merchandise and excellent value.'' Davison's have an excellent selection of children's clothes perfect for Bermuda year round. I bought a nice white cotton hooded jacket which zips in the front with a matching pair of white shorts for my daughter aged 8, at half price! Christmas shopping in the East End A must-see if you are interested in attractive pottery tableware is Ceramica Bermuda on York Street near the Police Station. Most of the items are hand painted in blue and white but with other colours in the design. The owner, Mr.

Bill Freeman remarked, "We visit Spain at least once a year and make our selection from various pottery in Andalucia which is in the south of Spain. We import it directly by container load, which is one of the reasons we can offer it to our customers at reasonable prices.

"Last Christmas we were very successful with our large pots and planters, tableware, clocks and light shades.'' Items range in price from $4 for a small bowl or flower pot to $80 and up for large hand thrown and hand painted items. The good news is a 50% off special Christmas sale starts November 28 through December! Also on York Street is a branch of H. A. & E Smith's. They have have an exquisite porcelain doll selection featured in their display window. They have a host of fine gifts such as the Pearson hair brushes and Burberry items.

Still on York Street, at the corner of Old Maid's Lane, is a fun little shop called, Cracker Box . They have some cute little animal characters and clever signs which say, "Gone'' and "Gone Diving'' and "Gone Shopping''.

Who knows what you might find to buy at St. George's Flea Market on Ordnance Island on November 28. Food will be sold.

The official switching on of the Town Christmas Lighting will occur November 30.

On December 4, the Bermuda National Trust Christmas Walk of historic St.

George's buildings by candlelight will happen. Food will be on sale.

On December 12, St. George's will host an old-fashioned Christmas and Santa will be on the square to meet children and hear carolling around the tree.

On New Year's Eve St. George's has its own "Onion Ceremony'' to bring in 1999! This is the 8th annual celebration in King's Square and there's always a lively crowd.

If you are considering dining in St. George's New Year's Eve you'd best think about booking your evening soon. Two of the most popular places are the Carriage House and San Giorgio's.

If you have a boat and it is a calm night, anchored off in the tranquil harbour sipping champagne is a romantic way to see the fireworks and listen to the live music.

For shopping in the West End, see Page 23 TAKE A BREAK -- When you get tired of shopping, St. George's offers a range of museums where you can relax. Above is the St. George's Historical Society.