the realities of 1995 -- which will include Christmas bills, no doubt a diet, and perhaps new horizons.

For many, tomorrow night will mean a splendid dinner in a fancy restaurant, followed by dancing, and ultimately the midnight razzmatazz of noisemakers and champagne.

For others, however, the celebration won't be so public -- for economic or other reasons, including leaving it too late to make reservations for either dinner or a babysitter.

But cheer up! There's no reason to be down-hearted. The home celebration can still be elegant and fun -- as recipes for this New Year's Eve menu from `The Silver Palate Good Times Cookbook' by Julee Rosso and Sheila Lukins prove.

As authors of several Silver Palate cookbooks, these women are experts at recipes showing how easy it is to prepare splendid food without being a gourmet chef. Without exception, the results are excellent and guaranteed to impress any guest.

And no, it's not too late to provision for and prepare this menu in time for an elegant at-home dinner tomorrow night. But why do it all yourself? If you haven't already done so, gather some friends together, refer them to today's paper, and ask each to prepare at least one of the dishes. That divides not only the labour but also the expense.

Of course, you should dress for the occasion, and don't forget to light the candles, chill the champagne, and have the noisemakers ready for a Happy New Year.

*** GOLDEN CAVIAR SOUFFLE m 2 tbsp. unsalted butter 3 tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup half-and-half 4 egg yolks 1 cup golden caviar 1 cup snipped fresh chives Finely grated zest of 1 lemon 2 tbsp. vodka Freshly ground black pepper, to taste 8 egg whites, room temperature Pinch salt 1 tsp. cream of tartar MELT butter in a heavy medium-size saucepan over medium heat. When butter starts to foam, add flour and cook, stirring constantly, for 1 minute.

Gradually stir in half-and-half and cook, whisking constantly, until smooth and thick.

Remove from heat and add egg yolks, one at a time, whisking well after each addition. Gently stir in caviar, chives, lemon zest, vodka, and pepper. Set aside.

Pre-heat oven to 400 0F. Butter a 6-cup souffle m dish.

Beat egg whites and salt in a mixer bowl until foamy. Sprinkle with cream of tartar and continue beating until the whites are barely stiff and stand in soft peaks. Do not over-beat egg whites, for they should not be dry. Gently fold whites into souffle m base. Pour gently into the prepared dish. Bake until well puffed and golden, 15 to 20 minutes. (Be careful not to overcook this souffle m or the caviar will no longer be crunchy but rubbery instead.) Serve immediately. Yield: 6 portions.

*** BROILED OYSTERS WITH ARUGULA PURE mE AND CHAMPAGNE SABAYON Three elegant flavours with three favourite ingredients -- oysters, arugula, and Champagne. When placed under the broiler with a sabayon, the oysters resemble miniature souffle ms. They are absolutely elegant.

4 cups arugula leaves (2 bunches), well rinsed, dried 3 cup creme Fraiche or heavy or whipping cream 1 tbsp. fresh lemon juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 4 shallots, finely chopped 1 cup plus 2 tbsp. Champagne 3 cup (11 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 egg yolks 24 fresh oysters on the half shell To make arugula pure me: Cook arugula in a large pan of boiling, salted water until tender, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain leaves in a colander and refresh under cold, running water. Squeeze as much water as possible from the leaves by wringing them with your hands or pressing them against the side of the colander with a rubber spatula. Place arugula and 1 cup of the cre mme fraiche in a food processor fitted with a steel blade. Process until pure med. Add lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Process until mixed.

To make Champagne sabayon: Heat shallots and 1 cup Champagne in a small saucepan to boiling. Reduce heat, simmer until all but 1 tbsp. of the Champagne evaporates. Whisk in butter, 1 tbsp. at a time, over lowest possible heat. (You want the butter to emulsify with the mixture rather than to melt).

When all butter has been added, whisk in remaining 1 cup cre mme fraiche.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. Whisk egg yolks and 2 tbsp. Champagne in the top of a double boiler until blended. Then whisk over simmering water until foamy and almost doubled in volume, 3 to 4 minutes. Gently fold into butter mixture.

A tasty way to celebrate New Year's Eve! Pre-heat broiler.

Loosen oysters from their shells, check for sand or grit, and return to the shells. Cover each oyster with 2 to 3 tsp. of arugula pure me and then about 1 tbsp. of the Champagne sabayon. Arrange oysters in a shallow baking dish.

Broil 6 inches from heat until puffed and lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes.

Serve immediately with small cocktail forks. As a first course, arrange 3 to 4 oysters per person on a plate. Yield: 24 oysters.

*** SPINACH AND BACON SALAD An updated version of a standard spinach, mushroom, and bacon salad. We've added peppery arugula leaves, tender enoki mushrooms, and a shower of chopped eggs. Bacon and toasted sesame seeds provide lots of crunch, while a warm champagne vinegar dressing adds elegance.

11 lbs. spinach, stems trimmed, rinsed, and patted dry 4 oz. arugula, stems trimmed, rinsed, and patted dry 2 small red onions, thinly sliced 1 3.5-oz. pkge. enoki mushrooms 4 oz. fresh mushrooms, thinly sliced 11 cups Warm Champagne Vinegar Dressing 8 oz. bacon, cooked crisp, drained, and crumbled 2 hard-cooked eggs, finely chopped 1 cup toasted sesame seeds TEAR spinach and arugula leaves into bite-size pieces, place in a large salad bowl. Add onion, enoki and cultivated mushrooms. Toss to combine.

Make hot dressing and pour over salad ingredients. Toss to coat. Sprinkle with bacon, eggs, and sesame seeds. Yield: 6 main-course portions or 10 appetiser portions.

*** WARM CHAMPAGNE VINEGAR DRESSING 1 cup Champagne vinegar 2 tbsp. sugar 11 tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tsp. dry vermouth 1 tsp. Dijon-style mustard 1 egg, beaten 3 tbsp. heavy or whipping cream 2 cups olive oil Salt, freshly ground black pepper to taste COMBINE vinegar, sugar, flour, vermouth and mustard in a small saucepan. Heat to simmering over medium heat. Gradually whisk in egg and cream over low heat.

Whisk in oil in a thin, steady stream. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Remove from heat. Yield: 3 cups.

*** CHICKEN BREASTS IN CHAMPAGNE An extravagantly delicious combination of classics 4 whole chicken breasts, halved Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste 5 tbsp. unsalted butter 1 cup Cognac 3 tbsp. unbleached all-purpose flour 2 tsp. dried tarragon 31 cups non-vintage Champagne 1 cup heavy or whipping cream SPRINKLE chicken breasts with salt and pepper. Melt butter in a medium-size Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown chicken breasts, a few at a time, on all sides, about 10 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside.

Pour Cognac into the pan, warm it, and flame with a match. When flames subside, stir in flour and tarragon. Cook 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

Gradually whisk in 3 cups of the Champagne. Return chicken to the pan. Cover and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 45 minutes.

Remove chicken to a warmed serving platter. Stir in remaining 1 cup of Champagne and the cream. Cook the sauce over high heat until reduced and slightly thickened. Pour over chicken and serve immediately. Yield: 6 portions.

*** NUTTED WILD RICE Golden raisins, dry sherry, and crunchy almonds complement the earthy flavour of wild rice. The perfect accompaniment to chicken or game.

1 cup golden raisins 1 cup dry sherry 1 cup wild rice 42 cups chicken stock or canned chicken broth, boiling 6 tbsp. (3 stick) unsalted butter 1 cup brown rice 1 cup slivered almonds 1 cup chopped fresh parsley Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste HEAT raisins and sherry in a small saucepan to boiling. Reduce heat, simmer 5 minutes. Set aside.

Place wild rice, 2 cups of the boiling stock, and 2 tbsp. of the butter in the top of a double boiler over simmering water. Cook, covered, 1 hour.

Place brown rice, remaining 22 cups boiling stock, and 2 tbsp. of the butter in a medium-size saucepan. Heat to boiling. Reduce heat to low and cook until all the water is absorbed, about 50 minutes.

Saute m almonds in the remaining 2 tbsp. butter in a small skillet over low heat until lightly toasted.

Combine wild rice, brown rice, raisins with sherry, almonds, and parsley in a large mixing bowl. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Remove to a serving bowl and serve immediately. Yield: 8 to 10 portions.

*** RUBY RADISHES Radishes are delicious when cooked and add brilliant colour to winter menus 3 tbsp. unsalted butter 3 bunches red radishes (about 25), leaves and stems trimmed, rinsed and patted dry 2 tsp. sugar 1 tsp. red wine vinegar 11 tbsp. snipped fresh dill Fresh ground black pepper, to taste MELT butter in a medium-size skillet or saute m pan over medium heat. Add radishes and toss to coat. Cover pan and cook for 4 minutes, shaking occasionally. Add sugar and vinegar, toss over medium heat for 1 minute.

Sprinkle with dill and season to taste with pepper. Serve immediately. Yield: 6 portions.

*** KUMQUAT CITRUS A glistening kumquat half nestles on top of a rich citrus filling to make these miniature tarts pastry-shop perfect Pastry: 11 cups unbleached all-purpose flour 1 cup confectioners' sugar 9 tbsp. unsalted butter, cold, cut into small pieces 1 egg 1 to 2 tbsp. ice water Filling: 1 egg 1 cup granulated sugar 1 tsp. finely grated orange zest 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest 2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tbsp. fresh orange juice 2 tbsp. heavy or whipping cream Topping: 24 kumquats 1 cup orange liqueur Glaze: 1 cup apricot jam 2 tbsp. orange liqueur To make pastry: Process flour, confectioners' sugar, and butter in a food processor fitted with a steel blade until mixture resembles coarse meal. Add egg. With machine running, add enough of the water for the dough to gather into a ball. Do not over-process.

Wrap dough in cling film and refrigerate 2 hours.

Pre-heat oven to 400 0F.

Divide dough in half. Roll one half out very thinly on a lightly floured surface. (Freeze the other half for another use). Line sixteen 1-inch tart pans or small muffin cups with the dough. Trim edges. Line each shell with waxed or parchment paper and weight with dried beans or pie weights. Bake on a baking sheet for 10 minutes. Remove weights and let cool.

Reduce heat to 375 0F. To make filling: Process egg, sugar, orange and lemon zests in a food processor for 1 minute. Add lemon and orange juices and cream.

Process 30 seconds more.

Remove paper from the tart shells and spoon 1 tbsp. of the citrus filling into each shell. Bake until the filling is set and lightly browned, about 15 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.

To make topping: Cut 8 of the kumquats in half and seed. Cut remaining kumquats crosswise into thin slices and seed. Heat all the kumquats and the 1 cup orange liqueur in a small enamelled saucepan over medium heat to boiling.

Cook, stirring constantly, until most of the liqueur has evaporated to form a syrupy coating over the kumquats. Remove from heat.

Remove tarts from pans. Make a circle of overlapping kumquat slices on top of each tart and place 1 kumquat half in the centre.

To make glaze: Heat apricot jam and 2 tbsp. orange liqueur in a small saucepan until melted and smooth. Spoon glaze over each tart. Yield: Sixteen 1-inch tarts.