of islands that make up the Florida Keys, with a beach judged one of the best in the US.

That was Bahia Honda State Park before Hurricane Georges. These days park rangers would be happy just to have a beach.

The Sept. 25 hurricane transformed this 524-acre paradise, blowing just about every grain of sand onto the roadway. The storm uprooted palms, destroyed boardwalks and reduced a rookery to practically a sandbar.

Trunks of buttonwood trees left standing were blasted white by embedded sand.

Many of the bathrooms, fences and walkways that were damaged were replaced as part of a $ 1.2 million repair effort. The sand was bulldozed back into place, and some 20,000 sea oats were planted to keep it in place.

"People who have been here before will see a tremendous difference,'' said Bob Bodner, an assistant manager who has worked as a ranger at Bahia Honda for 20 years.

"People who have never been here before will think it's one of the most beautiful places they have ever been to.'' The recreation area was named the top beach in the country in 1992 by University of Maryland geologist Stephen Leatherman, who compiles a well-regarded annual list. Parks are retired from the list after reaching No.

1.

Tucked off the Overseas Highway as traffic enters the lower Keys and framed by the old Flagler railroad bridge, Bahia Honda reopened two beach areas in December. Its top draw, Sandspur Beach, remained closed until early May.

Attendance is down almost about 100,000 so far this year.

"It still has a lot, but a lot of it is gone, too,'' said Nicole Xavier, a tourist from Warwick, R.I., during her second trip to Bahia Honda.

Ms. Xavier and her friend Rick Marchetti of Newport, R.I., kayaked out to the rookery like they did on their previous trip and found it wrecked and deserted.

"Bird life for several months after the storm was pretty much non-existent,'' Bodner said. "Bird life has come back, but not to where it used to be. We had some resident pelicans, but they have disappeared.'' Bodner recalls traveling back to the park after the hurricane and seeing little damage in the upper Keys, which are closest to Miami. His euphoria quickly turned to depression when he got to his destination.

Georges was a compact storm when it hit Florida, the brunt of its force focused on the lower Keys.

"I wasn't expecting the devastation,'' Bodner said. "I was shocked. It was just a mess.'' Still, first-timers could barely tell the difference on a recent visit.

Snorkelers cavorted in the lagoon, sunbathers dotted the sandy areas and a few people in canoes navigated the mangroves.

"It's a very nice place. We came from Key West and read about the beach here,'' said Andy Hitzel of Frankfurt.'' Honourable Mention : "Mermaid's Rest'' by child artist, Courtney Dayre Smith age 8. Her vibrant colours were purple, yellow, pink and blue. She attends St. George's Prep.

Honourable Mention : "Mermaid's Rest'' by child artist, Courtney Dayre Smith age 8. Her vibrant colours were purple, yellow, pink and blue. She attends St.

George's Prep.

HURRICANES HUR