One of Kenya's leading safari operators and tourism experts who visits the island on a regular basis believes his country is far ahead of Bermuda in the field of tourism.

Mr. Mike Lawrence, who co-owns and operates Westminster Safaris Ltd., and claims he has noticed a steady decline in Bermuda's friendliness and courtesy over the past few years, made his comments during a visit here last week.

"We are looking for tourists, just as you are. But I must say I have noticed a great difference in the attitude of Bermudians and Kenyans. In Kenya, people are so proud to be waiters and bar-tenders and regard it a privilege and honour to serve visitors.

"I can't believe that any Kenyan barman would ever behave as a certain barman did when I visited one of your hotels the other day. There seems to be a general surliness in Bermuda that didn't exist here a decade ago.'' Mr. Lawrence heads a company which, for many years, has specialised in luxury, custom-planned trips that stretch from Kenya's fabulous Indian ocean coastline to the fabled interior sights of animal-filled savannah, vast lakes and majestic mountains.

He says that Bermuda has provided a steady stream of business for his company, with well over 100 Bermudians sampling his very special brand of African hospitality.

"Before the Gulf War, more than 700,000 people visited Kenya annually. As tourism is our biggest foreign exchange earner, we have suffered from the effects of recession. However, Kenya remains one of the most stable countries in Africa and one of the very few with a growth economy.'' But in common with the rest of the world, Kenya has experienced a recent downturn in tourist figures.

Mr. Lawrence admitted that his country had also suffered by the decision of aid-donor countries like the UK and USA, to withhold aid until free elections were held.

"This meant that, for the first time in a long time, our economy didn't grow.

But it did manage to maintain itself.'' He noted that despite misgivings on the part of international observers, the recent election, which returned President Moi and his party to power, was seen as being free and fair. "I personally escorted many observers (including a member from the British High Commission) around more than 20 polling booths and there was total order and discipline.'' As he talked, it was obvious that this outspoken and colourful character, whose interests include agricultural engineering, farming, mining and prospecting, bush flying and big game fishing and whose family settled in Africa more than 70 years ago, is a passionate defender of Kenya. He is also full of optimism about its future.

When the Mau Mau troubles of the 1950s caused many white settlers to abandon their homes, Mr. Lawrence never thought twice about staying on. He said that those who left now regret it, as his country settled down after independence, becoming one of the few economically successful and politically stable on that volatile continent.

"Kenya is a wonderful place to live and a wonderful place to visit. People have been worried about the effect of mass tourism but I think Kenya is coping well. You have to remember that the tourist industry is indirectly responsible for 65 percent of employment. Everyone is so keen to get training. There are queues to join the waiters and hotel schools, which are run by various hotels, airlines and the government.

"The national parks are self-financing and we now have very good programmes in place that has stopped the poaching of rhinos and elephants.'' He is grimly aware that a successful tourism programme can bring problems in its wake.

"The one thing that threatens my country is the spread of the `big plough'.

The Maasai and other tribes, who are nomads by nature, have been seduced by big money offered for their lands. The national reserve lands are protected but there is a real danger outside.

"So in an effort to preserve their way of life, we have taken out concessions on land held by the Maasai and we tour operators pay them for the use of their land and for viewing fees. This is the only way we can really assist them in building up their wealth and stop them selling their land for farming.'' Mr. Lawrence's association with Bermuda began over a decade ago. Since then, he has mapped out special itineraries for his Island clients. Admitting that his operation is aimed at the upper end of the market, he emphasises that his safaris are definitely not package tours.

"I personally escort the people on my safaris and I never take anyone who I've not met beforehand. I visit every client who plans a safari with me. I've only broke that rule once. One of the richest men in America was recommended to me and I agreed to take him. He turned out to be a real pain!'' Well-known photographer Mr. DeForest Trimingham took advantage of the opportunities offered by Westminster Safaris some three years ago.

"I wasn't really interested in rushing about on a tour. All I wanted to do was to make a leisurely journey, stopping to photograph everything that caught my fancy. So Mike Lawrence arranged a special itinerary just for my wife and me. It was the experience of a lifetime. He knows every inch of Kenya and its people and it makes such a difference.'' Some of the more unusual pleasures offered by his safaris include light aircraft that take particularly adventurous travellers to remote and otherwise inaccessible corners of Kenya and never-to-be-forgotten flights in hot air balloons, where travellers drift high above the romantic terrain of the African bush.

The usual mode of transport, however, is the robust four-wheel drive, equipped with roof hatches for comfortable game viewing. And large double tents with a dressing area, covered verandah, private hot water shower and separate toilet, with two staff for each client, certainly takes the sting out of life in the bush.

International menus that include fresh meats and seafood, vegetables and fruit are also part of the service.

"I never hand my safari over to another operator. I own all my own camping equipment and have employed the same staff for years. They are completely trustworthy.'' Asked if there was any danger in Kenya safaris, Mr. Lawrence laughed and said: "The things people ask me about most include mosquitoes, and being eaten by lions and snakes. In all my years on safari, no-one has had anything worse than an ant bite!'' He emphasises precautions such as travel shots should be taken, and that great care should be taken in selecting a reputable firm.

"As long as you go with a good company, you are absolutely safe,'' he declared.

For anyone thinking about a trip to Kenya, it should be remembered that the safari season ends soon after Easter and starts up again in July, with a break in November for the short rains.

"The long rains come in May and June and that works out well for everybody.

My staff go off on leave and it gives them the chance to plant their fields, so everyone's happy.'' THE BERMUDA CONNECTION -- This Maasai baby was named after a young Bermudian, Stephen, who visited the family during his safari with Mr. Lawrence.

Photograph by Mr. and Mrs. Cyril Cooper.

VILLAGE LIFE, KENYA STYLE -- Visitors on Mr. Lawrence's safaris get the opportunity to meet villagers in the Maasai Mara.

Photograph from collection of Mr. and Mrs. Cyril Cooper.

MIKE LAWRENCE -- Kenyan-born safari operator who counts many Bermudians among his special clients.

SMILE, PLEASE -- A herd of elephants is just one of the spectacular sights awaiting safari photographers on the plains of Kenya.