Warm summer evenings were made for simple, satisfying meals from the garden. And French country cuisine brings together the best that summer gardens have to offer.

The fertile Loire Valley has long been famous for its bountiful harvests – from its fields and orchards as well as the river that gives it its name.

Arranged attractively on a plate, green beans lightly drizzled with creamy green-onion dressing and poached pink salmon present an eye-catching warm-weather feast that is light and filling. It pairs well with a delicate, simple soup of garden fresh herbs, tomatoes, green onions and peas, served either warm or chilled. A perfect meal for a perfect day.

SUCCESS TIPS

¦ To make neat, attractive pieces of salmon for this salad, slice a large fillet into thick fingers and poach them unskinned. The skin peels off easily after cooking.

¦ For best flavour, check specialty produce grocers or farmers' markets for the slender French beans called haricots verts.

¦ Extra-virgin olive oil, while quite popular, may impart too strong a flavor. A good substitute is high-quality, regular olive oil or half extra-virgin and half vegetable oil, such as canola, safflower or peanut.

¦ Make the garden soup early inly in the day and let it sit for several hours before serving.

WARM SALMON SALAD– WITH GREEN BEANS

? cup liquid egg substitute

1 lime, juiced

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

6 green onions (white and pale green parts only), coarsely chopped

1 cup olive oil

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1 salmon fillet (2 ½ pounds), skin attached

2 cups dry white wine

½ pound green beans, ends trimmed, halved if large

1 heart of romaine lettuce

1 green onion, minced, for garnish

1. In blender or food processor, combine egg substitute, lime juice, vinegar and chopped green onions, whisking until smooth. With motor running, add oil drop by drop until sauce thickens, then add oil faster till all is used and sauce is thick and green. Remove to a bowl, stirring in salt and pepper to taste. Sauce may be made up to one day ahead, covered, and refrigerated.

2. Cut salmon crosswise into one-inch-wide strips, seasoning with salt and pepper. In each of two (nine-inch) skillets, over moderate heat, bring one cup of wine to a simmer. Divide salmon between skillets, adjusting heat to maintain a simmer. Cover and cook three minutes, skin side down.

Turn fillets over, cover and cook an additional 3 minutes.

Check for doneness; fillets should be bright pink, firm and moist in the centre. With slotted flat spatula, transfer fillets to clean kitchen towels to drain.

3. While fish is cooking, steam green beans over, not in, boiling salted water until tender-crisp (six to 10 minutes, depending on size). On a large serving platter or on individual plates, arrange poached salmon, bundles of green beans and heart of romaine lettuce. Garnish platter with minced green onion. Pass sauce separately or drizzle over the salad and pass remaining sauce separately. Serves 6.

SUMMER GARDEN SOUP

1 cup minced green onions, including green tops

1 teaspoon olive oil

½ cup diced carrots

½ cup diced turnips

½ cup string beans, sliced diagonally into ½-inch lengths

½ cup chopped tomatoes

½ cup shelled peas

3 tablespoons minced parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh mint

1 teaspoon light honey

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

6 cups chicken stock or vegetarian stock

Herbed salt and pepper, to taste. Non-fat plain yoghurt, for garnish

1. In a heavy stockpot over medium-high heat, saute green onions in olive oil until brightly colored and soft (four to five minutes). Add carrots, turnips, beans and tomatoes, and continue to cook for eight minutes.

2. Add peas, parsley, mint, honey, cloves and stock, and bring to a boil. Lower heat to simmer, cooking an additional 15 minutes. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot or chilled, garnished with a dollop of yoghurt.

Makes 10 cups, 8 servings.