British food critic Egon Ronay dies at 94
LONDON (AP) — Food critic Egon Ronay, whose eponymous restaurant guides helped Britain embrace fine dining after years of postwar austerity, died Saturday. He was 94.
Family friend Nick Ross said Ronay died at his home near the village of Yattendon, 50 miles (80 kms) west of London, after a short illness. Born in Budapest in 1915, Ronay was the son of a prosperous restaurant-owner whose business was ruined by the Second World War and the subsequent Soviet occupation. Ronay left communist Hungary for Britain in 1946.
He worked as a manager at London restaurants before opening his own establishment, The Marquee, which sought to bring French culinary flair to a country just emerging from years of food rationing.
"You could eat well in London," Ronay told The Observer newspaper in 2003 about the 1950s, "but in extremely few places".
He began writing about food for The Daily Telegraph newspaper, and in 1957 produced the first Egon Ronay Guide to British restaurants, modelled on France's Michelin guides.
The annual guides, researched with the help of a team of anonymous reviewers, became immensely popular, and restaurants displayed the blue Egon Ronay label as a seal of approval. Ronay later said that in Britain until the 1960s, "food was not a polite topic for conversation".
"When I came there was only two columns about food, one in the Tatler and one in The Daily Telegraph. Now there is not a single publication in the whole of Britain that does not carry news on food."
As well as his restaurant guides, Ronay rated eating spots at airports and highway service stations, and acted as a food consultant to a chain of bars. He said his goal was to raise the quality of dining for everyone, not just the elite.
He continued working into his 90s. Ross said he had a "remarkable ability to taste flavours in anything."
"Right up until his death, even young chefs regarded him as the monarch," Ross said.
Ronay is survived by his wife Barbara, two daughters and a son. Funeral details were not immediately available.