Exploring Dora: Surf legend comes to life
LOS ANGELES (AP) ¿ He was an outlaw, a swindler and a con man, not to mention a shiftless vagrant who lived to avoid work.
All that would have made Miki Dora just another small-time crook with a penchant for travelling the world on forged credit cards and passports had he not also been the greatest surfer to ride a wave all the way into the beach at Malibu.
Without Dora, the surfing explosion that erupted in Southern California in the 1960s and swept around the world would still have occurred, says David Rensin, author of "All for a Few Perfect Waves: The Audacious Life and Legend of Rebel Surfer Miki Dora''. After all, Frederic Koehner's 1957 best seller "Gidget'', a thinly fictionalised account of Koehner's surfer-daughter Kathy and her crazy, wave-riding friends, had already ensured the pastime's place in the pantheon of pop culture.
But surfing might not have arrived on the world stage with quite the same swagger if Dora hadn't accompanied it, bringing with him the image of the surfer as the solitary anti-hero.
"If you hadn't had Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassady and Allen Ginsberg, what would we know about the beats?" Rensin asks as he ponders Dora's influence on surfing from the outdoor verandah of a Los Angeles restaurant several miles east of the shore Dora once ruled.
"Kerouac. He wrote books. All Miki did was surf," the 58-year-old author continues between sips of iced tea on a warm, sunny spring morning. "But between his rebel heart, between his localism, between his style, between his being in the right place at the right time, his ethos pervades surf culture to this day."
Six years after his death at age 67 from pancreatic cancer, Dora still has his name scrawled on seawalls along California's coast, and his reputation among surfers remains known around the world. In New Zealand, the Mount Surf Museum proudly houses many of his artifacts, including his treasured Duke Kahanamoku Big Wave Invitational trophy that Dora won in Hawaii in 1967 ¿ and lost Down Under a few years later when some of the creditors he'd fleeced seized his possessions and auctioned them.
To get to know Dora, Rensin interviewed more than 300 people, constructing the book as an "oral history" in which both friends and enemies weigh in with their remembrances of the man alternately known as "Da Cat" for his uncanny moves on a surfboard and as the "Black Knight" for his sometimes anti-social behaviour both on and off the long board. "He didn't like anybody on his wave," chuckles the author, recounting how Dora was credited by many with inventing surfing's "localism" by pushing outsiders and lesser-skilled riders off their boards or, if they really annoyed him, aiming his board at their heads.
At the same time, he could be gracious when the mood struck. A rare YouTube clip of Dora, who hated being photographed, shows him deftly manoeuvring around dozens of clumsy riders at Malibu on a day when the waves more closely resembled an urban highway at rush hour.
"During the course of the last 50 years, I've been asked two questions over and over," says Greg Noll, himself a surfing legend for his skill at riding giant waves. "One is, 'What was it like to ride big waves?' The other is, 'What was Miki Dora really like?"'