Times are such that the economy is uncertain and the only likelihood of appreciable growth this year is in the garden, but even that can be a costly exercise, for we reap what we sow. As the old adage states, "we don't plan to fail – we fail to plan", and the garden is a perfect example of money trees being the problem.

Purchasing plants should be no different than purchasing a pair of trousers or a handbag. Ask yourself why it is needed and what is its purpose; the second question should be that it is the right plant for the area, both in the short and long term. If you know you will be adding an extension to the house or installing a pool at some point, take this into consideration. Over-planting and planting in the wrong location can be a costly exercise for several reasons.

Plants are not a static entity as they grow they engage more space both top growth and root zone; when planted too close to a building or wall the symmetry is often lost and root growth stymied by proximity of a hard surface, usually the wall or foundation.

Planting too close to a wall not only creates potential structural problems but necessitates pruning, which may under normal conditions not be required, the pruning of these plants invariably leads to a one sided – top heavy – plant. The same problem arises with planting too close in rows or beds with poorly shaped plants being the result.

Location is important for many plants as their requirements are such that the tolerance level to strong winds or salt spray dictates the preferred area for planting. Big plants in small areas can create problems with branches being too close to buildings, leaves falling on roofs and roots cracking foundations; all creating unnecessary cost in repairing or removing the offending material.

Selection is also important when choosing plants for exposed areas, as again wind and salt spray will burn soft growth and even dry out young tip growth on branches. Time of planting is also important to whether a plant is established in the quickest possible time; I prefer not to plant until at least late March or early April if weather is unsettled – as we have found during the month of February – as this does little to encourage plant establishment, but rather the opposite and creates a weak root system and poor branch growth.

I am of the opinion that more money is wasted on pruning than in any other exercise in the garden; there seems to be an obsessive compulsion to hack – anything and everything – on a regular basis. Hedges are a prime example, more often than not they are planted too close to a footpath or road, and too close together with the result they require immediate attention once they start to grow and continuously thereafter. Good design should incur pruning no more than three times a year. Allow hedges to grow and flower and develop new growth by careful pruning; keep weed plants from becoming invasive, and never plant mixed species as they will have different growth rates.

Consider the following points to cut back labour costs in the garden:

¦ Good design should dictate low maintenance, unless requested otherwise.

¦ Prune at most three times per year; this does not mean dead heading on such plants as Pentas, lantana and such like.

¦ Planting on correct centres from neighbouring plants allows them to grow with a natural symmetry. Do not plant close to walls or structures – plants are not a static entity they continue to grow!

I often find palms and large Strelizia nicolae (Bird of Paradise) so close to the house it is almost 'hugging' the wall! Hedges should be planted away from walls and boundaries with the intent of allowing/creating a thick dense growth thus offering privacy and screening, which is why the hedge was planted in the first place.

Using ground cover plants as a weed suppressant will also add aesthetic value to the garden.

Control weed growth in borders on a regular basis; if you weed when no weeds are present, you will never have any weeds. In other words gently push the Dutch hoe through the soil surface weekly to break up any capping and knock out germinating growth.

Check regularly for pest and disease problems; be pro-active not re-active when you see problems; when a problems is not tackled immediately it is seen it can easily spread around the garden and quickly.

Keep lawns well maintained, fertiliser and weed control will encourage free growth of lawn grasses and less encroachment of weeds. Remove thatch if required on an annual basis.

Mow to the correct height for the type of grass present, and more importantly only when the grass needs to be cut. Weed free lawns give a more uniform growth habit therefore the lawn should not look untidy even if it is a little longer that normal.

Design hard landscape features so they complement their surroundings e.g. footpaths should flow and lead from an obvious point of entry to a point of departure without having the user to walk on soft landscaped areas thus creating a wear and tear problem. Car-parking bays should be wide enough to accommodate ease of movement in and out of the car without alighting on flower beds or wet grass. Concrete pads for a/c units should abut walls with no gap between; leaving a gap encourages weed growth.

Work on the basis of a seasonal programme, certain tasks need to be carried out within specific time frames e.g. spraying for pest and disease problems; removing a broken branch after storm damage. In order to be proficient and reduce time and labour costs for maintenance such work should be carried out on an as and when required basis.

griffm@northrock.bm