I was on vacation when hurricane Bill made a visit. That he had left his calling card was obvious for as we left the airport arrivals area the impact of totally burnt oleanders, natal plum and even palm leaves was plain to see. It did however appear not all areas had been hit to the same extent, such is the nature of storms. Hurricanes aside, selection, installation and maintenance are important factors in developing a healthy mature landscape. Wind is a major contributor to leaf burn be it directly or via wind tunnels especially when in concert with salt spray.

Aesthetics and function should be the goal of a design that will enhance the garden for most of the year, with January to April being the off months for activity in many plants.

Healthy plants are generally better equipped to withstand – to a degree — the vagaries of Mother Nature, notwithstanding the general principles and practices attendant to same. When purchasing plants, use a checklist to determine it is free from pest and diseases, and is not pot bound i.e. remove from pot and examine roots which should grow around the root ball and have web like appearance.

If the root ball has thick heavy roots surrounding the root ball and pot it is likely to be pot bound and should be rejected.

Large, tall plants in small pots are usually pot bound! The plant should be of a shape and structure of the species, i.e. if selecting a tree — which usually has a trunk — ensure it has a growing tip on a primary single stem with less dominant side shoots.

Select material which has an 'all round' structure, avoid plants that are growing 'straight up' which will be the case if the plants are too close to each other in the row. Installation encompasses the ride range of issues of the 'plant in the ground'. These important points include location, proximity to neighbouring plants, roads, buildings and of course the size of planting hole to accommodate the continuously growing root system.

The saying 'horses for courses' can be applied to plants, knowing the 'needs' of a particular plant will assist in determining its location. Plants sensitive to wind and salt damage obviously require protected areas, whilst plants with a 'thicker' leaf are usually more resistant to such damage.

Location also refers for example to 'area' of planting' and the understanding that wind tunnels can be problematic especially when plants are located close to rock cuts, with the eddying effect being a problem, especially with large specimen plants where the 'head' has become lopsided and top heavy. Planting too close to structures or hard surfaces can also restrict root growth to the detriment of growth potential both above and below ground.

Growth rates vary from plant to plant, Tamarix gallica — Spruce — is a fast grower whereas Raphiolepis umbellatus — Coco-plum — is very slow.

A basic understanding of this reduces the possibility of overcrowding in mixed bed plantings, when it simply boils down to 'survival of the fastest' literally outgrowing the space of its neighbours. The need for pruning on an as and when required basis then highlights the weaker growing plants in the bed.

Structural damage is oft caused by roots that have made their way through the least path of resistance and finding a 'weak' spot in the structure of the wall or in the case of driveways 'uplifted' the tarmacadam.

Large trees or plants in general that are heavy in foliage and perhaps with a weak root system are more likely to be 'blown over' and damaged than trees that have been pruned.

Pruning — by professionals — creates a more open canopy which allows wind to filter through the branch system, whereas a heavy canopy is similar to a sail and takes the full force of the wind thus creating an uplift and damage.

To avoid problems of root damage — from large trees — plant well away from buildings and install in a large planting hole. By creating a large planting hole the plant is encouraged to develop a good root system which in turn will by its very nature 'search' for water by creating a root system that follows water deep into the ground. Such a root system creates a good anchor for the plant in times of high winds.

Healthy plants generally cope with stress factors for a longer time line and recover quicker after the stress is in relief; this applies to wind and periods of drought. Good maintenance practices such as pruning, pest and disease control and regular fertiliser applications will greatly assist in creating a strong and healthy plant. When talking about plants one invariably forgets that grass is a plant, therefore the above points also apply to preparation, installation and aftercare to create a good lawn.

Soil depth is very important to create a lawn with good colour, regardless of grass type, as a deep root system will encourage roots to travel after moisture.

When preparing a lawn it is vitally important to roll and firm soil so the finished level should show just the outline of a foot if walked on. Grass selection is determined by location; i.e. shade, sun, coastal with soil depth being the same for all types.

It pays dividends to do a job correctly in the garden, for once established it is unlikely that plants will be relocated, which thereafter leads to an increase in maintenance and a reduced impact of aesthetically pleasing subjects. Certainly not an investment in good growth or a hedge against inclement times!

MALCOLM D. GRIFFITHS