COLE'S COOKING A TO Z by Brete Harrison

The winter holidays are almost upon us — seasons steeped in culinary tradition.

Turkey and goose are sure to grace many holiday tables this year, but they are not the only fowl worthy of a starring role in holiday celebrations.

Duckling is a delicacy that French cuisine takes to amazing culinary heights, and US producers have made it reasonably priced and readily available, both fresh and frozen.

A delightful alternative to traditional poultry, duckling takes well to slow, simmered braising.

Generously sprinkled with black currants in a lightly seasoned chicken broth and dressed in a fruity wine and creme de cassis liqueur sauce, quartered duckling makes a strikingly beautiful dish for fall entertaining.

Accompany it with crisp, matchstick-thin french fries, a green vegetable such as Brussels sprouts, and a full-bodied Zinfandel or Cabernet.

COOKING A TO Z

KITCHEN SUCCESS TIPS

? Difficult to carve when done, duckling is best cut into quarters before cooking.

? As you work with duckling, remove and discard surface fat entirely to provide a clean exterior before cooking.

? For crisp french fries, dry the potatoes well before frying and fry in small batches to keep oil temperature constant.

BRAISED DUCKLING WITH CREME DE CASSIS

1 duckling (4 ½ to 5 pounds), cut in quarters

Kosher salt, white pepper and ground nutmeg

4 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon peanut or canola oil

2 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

2 tablespoons cassis (black currant) or raspberry wine vinegar

2 teaspoons tomato paste

¼ cup dried black currants

1 cup canned or cartoned chicken broth

? cup each dry white wine and creme de cassis (black currant liqueur)

1 tablespoon flour

1. Dust quartered duckling with salt, pepper and nutmeg on all sides. Melt two tablespoons of the butter with the oil in a large, deep, heavy frying pan over medium heat. Then add duckling, browning well on all sides and removing pieces as they brown.

2. Pour off and discard all but a thin glaze of remaining fat in the pan; add garlic, vinegar and tomato paste, whisking to loosen browned bits from pan.

Return duckling to pan. Sprinkle with currants. Add broth, wine and cassis.

Bring to a rolling boil, then cover, reducing heat, and simmer until duckling is very tender (about one hour)

3. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, soften remaining butter, mixing smoothly with flour. Remove duckling quarters to a deep, ovenproof platter or casserole dish. Place in a single layer, uncovered, in oven while completing sauce.

4. Skim surface fat from cooking liquid and discard. Bring to a boil over high heat.

Slowly blend in butter-and-flour mixture a bit at a time, whisking until sauce thickens. Taste, adding salt if needed. Pour sauce over duckling; serve at once. Serves four.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH TARRAGON-SHALLOT BUTTER

4 cups Brussels sprouts

1 lemon, juiced

Kosher salt and pepper

Tarragon-Shallot Herb Butter (recipe below)

1. Trim stem ends and cut an X in bottom of each brussels sprout.

2. Place a steamer, wire basket or rack in a pan above one to two inches of simmering water; add Brussels sprouts and cover tightly. Steam about five minutes.

3. Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice, or drizzle with Tarragon-Shallot Herb Butter.

Serves four.

TARRAGON-SHALLOT HERB BUTTER

½ cup unsalted butter, softened

2 shallots, minced

3 tablespoons fresh tarragon, minced

1 tablespoon white wine vinegar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

? teaspoon ground white pepper

In a small bowl, stir together all ingredients. Makes ¾ cup.

MATCHSTICK FRENCH FRIES

Safflower or canola oil, for deep-frying

3 large baking potatoes

Kosher salt

1. Put at least four inches of oil in a deep fryer, deep skillet or wok. Heat to 375 degrees. Peel potatoes and cut into matchsticks. Transfer to a bowl of cold water immediately after cutting to prevent browning.

2. Dry potatoes thoroughly in dish towels, drying only as many as you plan to fry at one time. Carefully fry potatoes in small batches until golden brown (three to five minutes).

3. Drain thoroughly, then lightly sprinkle with salt and transfer to a paper towel-lined, ovenproof platter.

Keep french fries warm in a 200-degree oven. When all potatoes are fried, transfer to a clean serving platter or napkin-lined basket. Serves four.

For additional culinary information and recipes from Cole's Cooking A to Z, e-mail AtoZ@culinarysocietyofamerica.com.