Grape Expectations

The legend that the old fashioned Champagne coup glass was moulded from Marie Antoinette’s breasts is almost certainly not true, but the fact that she deemed Champagne “the wine of coronations” is, and from that day forward it has been the wine to celebrate with. I would hazard that most of you feel it appropriate to serve in a tall, thin “flute” glass, as you have been told that it retains the fine bubbles for a longer period of time than the coup that has so much more surface area.

After many years of having quite a dislike for flutes I have finally been vindicated by reports emanating from France that have some of the most respected and well known producers advising that folks who are drinking from flutes are not getting the best out of their bubbly, as they are the wrong glasses to use! If you buy one of our lovely Champagnes I would strongly urge you to serve it in a fine quality glass of the sort that you would normally use for Chardonnay. So to sum up; coups let the fizz escape too quickly (even if a computer has calculated that up to 43,000,000 bubbles are ready to leave once the cork is removed), flutes trap gas above the wine and this creates tasting problems and white wine glasses are just perfect.

The Champagne market is dominated by two very large firms that are part of the same corporate group and there is no arguing about their success (you will understand, I hope, why I do not mention them by name). There are however, over 100 “Champagne Houses” and many, many thousands of smaller vineyard owners and producers.

Most firms have a long history going back centuries and so what makes Nicolas Feuillatte quite remarkable is that he is a Frenchman who returned home from New York City only 35 years ago, to start his own Champagne House and now his Champagne is the number one seller in France, and in the World he now ranks third overall. Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Non Vintage has intense floral and white fruit aromas, honeysuckle, pear and sweet citrus. It is creamy and fresh. $45.40. Their Rose Non Vintage is a blend of 60 percent Pinot Noir, 30 percent Pinot Meurnier and the rest Chardonnay. If you are thinking strawberries, cream, raspberries and freshness then you will love this wine that, at a cost of $64.10, is our best price on Rose Champagne.

For the connoisseur of Champagne we have the small, family firm of Billecart Salmon and publications such as The Wall Street Journal and the British Decanter Magazine have called it the best Non Vintage on the market. When you try a bottle you will certainly become aware of why these beautiful sparkling wines from a small area northeast of Paris, called Champagne, is the benchmark for all bubblies to aspire to. Spend $55.95 and you really will have one of the very best. When well know wine critic Robert Parker writes of the Billecart Salmon Rose he refers to “a delicate pink colour, gorgeous sweet cherry, strawberry and mineral-like scents, surprising depth and persistence and it’s impeccable, captivating style — 94/100”. $77.15

We list five different Champagnes from the family owned firm of Laurent Perrier (many are in corporate hands these days) and their Rose is the most asked for in the world. It is presented in a bottle shape inspired by King Henri IV and it is made 100 percent from Pinot Noir Grapes that give it a bright salmon colour, persistent, delicate bubbles and aromas of black cherries and strawberries. For $95.85 you can find out why it outsells all others.

We also stock a range of wines from Piper Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck both of which are Houses of historic significance. Piper Non Vintage is $55.30 and Charles $65.90. I am often asked to suggest a good Champagne and my answer is that they all will be good because of the strict quality controls in place, but it is a fact that some can be “more good” than others. We like to think that ours fall in this latter category. “May all your pain be sham-pain!”.