What if I told you of organic compounds that are said to help prevent blood clots, osteoporosis, cancer and are also anti-ageing and antibiotic and then shared with you that I try, in the case of red wine, to avoid them! Well it is true and not because I have difficulty spelling methoxy-pyrazines.

When I started out in this trade it was often the case that red wines had a bell pepper characteristic that I have never learned to like. About 20 years ago winemakers (chemists) discovered the cause was the above mentioned 16-letter word and this potent class of odorants can be detected by the experienced nose in as low as one part per trillion! A few weeks ago I spent an afternoon with a winemaker that could detect four parts and he explained how one can actually be trained to do better and he was working on it.

Much of the modern cure is to remove leaves that shade bunches of grapes thus letting the sunshine more fully ripen the fruit. This has to be done before veraison sets in; veraison is the French term for changing of the colour as the fruit ripens. Rapid vine growth, possibly from over watering is also a cause. Another area of concern to vineyard owners is that Asian spotted ladybug beetles were introduced to naturally control aphid populations and the defence mechanism that these beetles release to protect themselves contains isopropyl-methoxy-pyrazines. It has also been found that gentle pressing of the grapes in the winery reduces these compounds and points to some in the skins that are released by vigorous squeezing.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs are often described as having a touch of bell pepper, asparagus, peas and even an herbaceous character and this is quite acceptable, in fact it adds to their character that has made them so popular. They are fine examples of methoxy-pyrazines at work in harmony with a particular grape and as long as all is balanced, the likes of names like Oyster Bay, Seresin, Morton Estate, Matua Valley, Spy Valley, Monkey Bay and Mt Difficulty are to be much enjoyed. You can tell by our extensive selection that we really believe in these sought after wines.

My job is to very carefully taste Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and in particular Cabernet Franc and if I detect even a small whiff of bell pepper the odds are that it will not be bought to share with you. I just do not like it. In fact I was offered a new Cabernet Franc last week from Fabre Montmayou in Argentina and although Diane Fabre has assured me that methoxy-pyrazines are on her hit list, I do have a sample on the way to try before I buy.

I find that with Europe the vintage is so important and it can prove to be difficult, because if you do not buy in an average, or weak year, sometimes the winery owners will not share their finest vintages with you. Having said that we presently list 28 Bordeaux Chateaux from the classic and beautifully balanced and ripe 2009 harvest. Of course we have others going back decades.

With the New World of California, Argentina, Chile and Australia ripeness is usually not a worry, but I still do my best to taste and make sure that unwelcome natural chemical compounds do not exist in our wines or at least not in detectable volumes.

This column is a paid advertorial for Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.