IF you were to land on Rhodes with time to visit only three attractions, the choice would be relatively simple.First would be the mediaeval centre of the old city surrounding the Palace of the Grand Master with its fortified walls, then it would be out to the Valley of the Butterflies passing some historic archaeological excavations en route. Ultimate destination would have to be Lindos, the real icing on the cake.

Even the road there seems special, winding through a series of travel-folder villages and up into mountains of greater elevation. Rugged rocky slopes seem strangely familiar, until the guide explains this area was used in filming the 1961 movie The Guns of Naone<$>.

This highly praised action film traces efforts of Allied commandos during World War Two determined to destroy massive gun emplacements. Based on an Alistair MacLean novel, it featured a stellar cast — Gregory Peck, David Niven, Anthony Quinn, Stanley Baker, Anthony Quayle, Irene Papas, James Robertson Justice, James Darren and Richard Harris. It definitely warrants re-viewing.

Quinn liked the region well enough to invest in a sizeable chunk of land there. See the film and you’ll understand why.

Olive, pomegranate and orange groves edge level portions of the route. On earlier trips an almost constant procession of women in traditional black, from scarf to stockings, were market bound, some on donkeys or riding side saddle.

But as the saying goes, “The times, they are a changing”, and they’re far less visible today. But one does still see men idling away the hours at sidewalk village cafes while those women tend the homestead.

Lindos is one of those classic gems where even the “new” is old. Actually built against a steep cliff beside the sea, its narrow streets weave up through a village of shops to a sky-high Acropolis which left this traveller quite literally breathless.

We chose foot-power over a donkey ride to the summit because shops along the way were worth the effort. Exteriors of shops resembled an Arab bazaar covered to their roof tops with a rainbow of caftans, men’s sport shirts, hand-knit sweaters, rugs, elaborate jewellery . . . and at comfortable prices.

If the climb up those steep steps sounds too strenuous, ride up and shop your way down because on top there’s plenty of climbing once on the Acropolis itselBK>The pillared temple of Athena is only one of its many wonders. The Knights later erected a fortress there and from the 15th to the 17th century, rich ship owners (who have since become a Greek speciality) built fine houses in town.One of our journalist group on that very first trip became so enamoured of the atmosphere he immediately rented one!

Lunch at an open-air beachfront restaurant below the Acropolis featured some of the taste pleasers enjoyed throughout the islands . . . a salad of that marvellous feta cheese, vine-ripened tomatoes, cucumbers and incomparable Greek cured olives which will forever spoil you.

Then a platter of juicy red snapper . . . flavourful moussaka (a blend of minced meat, cheese and eggplant) . . . cool Lindos white wine and bowls of sweet green grapes from local vineyards. Um . . . seconds please.

Although Bermuda has superb beaches, you’re probably too busy to enjoy them as much as you’d like. So add a swim on the sandy half-moon beach h.Other<$> possibilities: Sign up for fishing, swimming and scuba diving from a native caique. Or if so inclined, it’s possible to take boat trips from Rhodes across Aegean waters to Marmares, Turkey for a glimpse of Asia Minor and some sites we previously visited on a Turkish coastal cruise. But check locally on the state of Greek-Turkish relations before going and the need for a visa.It’s when you reach the south and southwest corner of the island that you get the real feel of unspoiled isolation. However, little development exists there so you’re able to enjoy the scenery, but accommodations are very scarce.

While some sections of the island are crowded with what is fast becoming excessive resort development, there are still many ancient farms and sleeping villages that look like they were there centuries ago, not to mention castle ruins and archaeological excavations scattered down hillsides.

One of the most fun things is getting involved in local village festivals. In our case, it was a wedding where we ended up dancing in the street with locals to one of those very traditional Greek folk dances.

We’d been on a Caribbean cruise just before that early travel writers’ convention and, knowing Rhodes was on our agenda, had convinced the ship’s dance instructor to offer some lessons in those traditional dances.

So, when we joined the celebrating circle in the village square and followed the classic steps of their folk dance, they were amazed.

“You aren’t Greek. How do you know this?” they kept asking. “Because we made an effort to learn before arriving.”

But don’t be apprehensive about joining in. Remember, life is not a spectator sport. You get more out of it by participating.

About that Wendy’s. We were driving along the beach road in Rodos town when I let out a surprised, “There’s a Wendy’s sign.” My brother Jim immediately pulled over, followed the sign leading off the main route and lo and behold, there, in a very historic old restored building, Wendy was waiting with cool frosty milk shakes.

And when some of it splashed on Jim’s shirt, the manager arrived with a magic mystery spray that immediately erased the stain. How often since he’s wished language barriers had not prevented him from getting the name of that super stain remover.Only months earlier I’d been in a Tennessee Greek restaurant where Wendy’s orphan founder had got his start working for a Greek family and they’d become life-long friends. Had they been from Rhodes, thus this surprising location? With this exception, discovering local businesses, not chain operations, is this traveller’s preference. And, happily, there are still plenty of such family- owned cafés on Rhodes to appease even the heartiest appetite.

When you do sit down to dine, you’ll likely be asked to chose an aperitif. Ouzo, a clear brandy almost water-like in appearance, is a national favourite. But it’s not for everyone. It’s very potent, packs a powerful punch and can be compared to liqueurs such as Yugoslavia’s slivovitz or Tunisia’s bucca.

On any early trip to Tunisia, we had come in out of the sizzling desert far back of the beyond to lunch in a unique cave restaurant. At each place setting was a fairly sizeable glass of a clear liquid that everyone assumed was water.

Throughout that trip, we’d been provided with a generous supply of safe bottled water, refrigerated, but without ice.

By this time we were all as thirsty as Lawrence of Arabia struggling across the Wadi Rum.

Jim was the first (and last) to gulp down some of that apparent water and the shock of dynamite buccas almost paralysing his throat with the intensity of a flame thrower is something he’s never forgotten. So be warned.

Of course, as long as you’ve travelled this far, it’s the perfect time to look into a Greek Islands cruise. It’s also possible to shuttle between the islands on regular ferries.

But first go down to the dock and look them over.

You’ll want to sail off on something that doesn’t look like Helen of Troy who was its first passenger.

Photo shows a typical street scene in Lindos, with traditional caftans to tempt shoppers

Lindos is jewel in the Rhodes crown