Bahia-Salvador, first capital of colonial Brazil, is a vibrant gem
FOR those with very limited time, but a desire to see an overview of Brazil, there are several absolute musts on this traveller’s list.Some place in Amazonia for certain, remote enough to capture the mystery and magic of that region.
Try Iguacu Falls, a wonder in a league with Niagara and Victoria Falls, or the dramatic panoramic views of Rio from both Corcovada and Sugar Loaf, even more breath-taking than the overview of Hong Kong from Victoria Peak.
In fact, some feel Rio is better and more exciting seen from those dramatic locations than actually being in it!
Certainly high on that list is the vibrant gem of Bahia-Salvador, first capital of colonial Brazil. When the Portuguese landed here in the 1500s, they at first thought they’d discovered another island.
How to describe it? Walk through the old quarter with its wealth of 17th- and 18th-century baroque architecture and there’s a sense of being in some historic European time capsule. There’s also a bit of the same flavour found in the old colonial area of Havana, Cuba, although this is much better preserved, and in painted-up condition.
But what makes it unique is the African rhythm that flavours every aspect of life there . . . the music, food and long calendar of festivals. You’ll want to make a local inquiry because many African-oriented religious ceremonies are scheduled throughout the year.
Founded in 1549 by Tome de Souza, its first Governor, Bahia was invaded by the Dutch in 1624. Defeated, they returned for encore invasions from 1627 to 1649.
By 1728, the Bahian people were actively thinking of liberation from Portuguese control. Many battles later, it took until 1822 when Brazil once again regained independence. Bahia lost its status as capital of the Empire and had only provincial status.
As mentioned previously, it’s hard to imagine, but slavery actually existed in Brazil until 1888 and Bahia was very much a centre of that terrible trade. Both indigenous and imported slaves worked on the massive sugar plantations that brought such wealth to the region.
Growing tobacco and raising cattle on area ranches also contributed to prosperity built on over three centuries of slave labour. A sizeable segment of Bahia’s population, around 70 per cent, are descendants of slaves. It’s that heritage which is so much a part of the lifestyle there today.
Don’t come expecting some small town. This is a large city with major new developments, but at its core is the colonial heart that is so much a part of its attraction.
If you enjoy visiting historic churches, there are no fewer than 76 of them. Most impressive is the Church of San Francisco with its gold altar. A substantial number of them would be a major attraction anywhere, but here there are so many, one hardly knows where to begin.
These have a very special patina of age, like the Monastery of Sao Bento dating to the 1500s. Quite remarkable. So are elaborate mansions lining its streets. There’s also an abundance of museums recalling art and history of early Bahia.
Bermudians live surrounded by beautiful beaches so 71 kilometres of them stretching along the city’s shore won’t seem as exciting to them as to other overseas visitors. There are also some 30 islands offshore in the Bay of All Saints and boat trips out to them are popular.
The building boom erupting there on our last visit was stretching out along the shoreline. But we chose to stay in a former convent turned hotel in the historic district to soak up the atmosphere.
Bahian women in traditional dress had stalls selling marvellous pralines. I’m embarrassed to remember the number of decadently delicious coconut ones consumed on that trip.
On just such a relaxed exploration, we discovered a coffin maker who displayed his impressive hand-crafted products on the sidewalk outside his shop. It was on one of the hilly streets that give the area added appeal.
People were very friendly and a smile and a few words in Portuguese — even a simple>obregada<$> or obregado (thank you) depending if a woman or man — was welcomed with an appreciative response.
As one might expect, many forts were also built by the Portuguese between the 16th and 18th centuries. Some are in ruins, others carefully restored and now occupied by the Brazilian Armed Forces. Several welcome tourists and you’ll want to make a local inquiry since military posts often change rules of accessibility.
How can we possibly have got this far without mentioning shopping? We discovered small local markets in many places and Bahia’s huge folk market at its peak on Saturday mornings is an excellent place to seek out a hammock.
Stay long enough and you may hear some lively talks about pirates. Legend insists buried treasure chests of gold and silver coins are on one of the 30 islands off Bahia in the Bay of All Saints.
It should come as no surprise to discover many towns and villages are named after locations in Portugal. Some examples are Nazare on the island of Itaparica off Bahia which dates to the 17th century.
I remember being told Obidos, on the Amazon just down river from Santarem, is on a particularly “narrow” part of the river where it’s under one mile wide, but 200 feet deep! Curious how one remembers those things. In this case probably because Obidos in Portugal is a place we particularly enjoy staying and dining in its historic Posada cas.
Not far from here is Mercado Modelo, where slaves were once chained in its basement when ships arrived carrying them here from Africa in the 17th and 18th centuries. Today it’s home to stalls selling all sorts of locally made handicrafts.
It’s certainly easy to see why sections of Bahia-Salvador have been recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There’s so much history here, it’s not easy to absorb it all.
Once again, remember that there’s a high crime rate here, just as there is all over Brazil. Don’t wander around those interesting narrow, cobbled streets alone, certainly not after dark, and try not to look like a tourist.
Next week:Vauban headlines France’s summer calendar
