CHESTNUTS roasting on an open fire aren’t for everybody. This holiday dinner is a collection of dishes that honours the classics but tweaks tradition enough to make this meal one of the most interesting you’ve eaten all year

Menu:

Serves 10 to 12

Mussels with Tarragon Celery Vinaigrette

Suggested wine pairing: Clos de la Sénaigerie C|0xf4|tes de Grandlieu Muscadet ‘04 Crown

Roast Of Pork with Onion and Bread-Crumb Stuffin>

Cranberry Horseradish Sauce

Celery-Root and Apple Puree

Potato and Lardon Casserole

Frenched Green Beans<$>

Suggested wine pairing: Ch|0xe2|teau de Caladroy Cuvée les Schistes C|0xf4|tes du Roussillon Villages ‘03 Hazelnut Paris-Brest

Poached Oranges with Candied Zest and Ginger<$>

Suggested wine pairing: Domaine du Mas Blanc Banyuls Blanc Vin Doux Naturel ‘03

GAME N<$>

Two days ahead:

- Make cranberry horseradish sauce

- Make hazelnut praline and praline “butter” for Paris-Brest

- Make pastry cream for Paris-Brest

One day ahead:

- Prepare mussels in vinaigrette and clean shells

- Make stuffing for crown roast

- Make celery-root and apple purée

- Assemble potato and lardon casserole

- French or halve green beans

- Make poached oranges with candied zest and gir

Day of meal:<$>

Eight hours ahead:

- Make choux pastry ring for Paris-Brest 6 hours ahead:

- Rub crown roast with seasoning, then stuff 3 1/2 hours ahead:

- Put crown roast in oven

- Make hazelnut cream for Paris-Brest

Two hours ad:<$>

- Bring potato and lardon casserole to room temperature

One hour ad: <$>

- Bake potato casserole

- Bake stuffing

- Assemble Paris-Brest (2 hours before serving dessert)

- Assemble mussels in vinaigrette in shells 30 minutes before serving:

- Make sauce while crown roast stands

- Reheat celery-root and apple purée

- Bring cranberry horseradish sauce to room temperature or reheat

- Cook green beans <\m>

(Recipes by Shelley Wiseman, rmet <$>magae, <$>December 2005)

MUSSELS WITH TARRAGON CELERY VIGRETTE<$>

To begin, a little taste of the sea, easily prepared ahead of time. Beautiful, sophisticated, and delicious, mussels are perfect party appetizers. Each bite offers a complex layering of flavours, and the shells make lovely natural dishes.

2 lb musssels (35 to 45; preferably cultivated), scrubbed well and beards removed

1/3 cup dry white wine

2 hard-boiled large eggs

2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

1/2 cup pickled cocktail onions, trimmed and finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

Cook mussels in wine in a 4- to 6-quart pot over moderately high heat, covered, until mussels just open wide, checking frequently after 4 minutes and transferring opened mussels to a large bowl using a slotted spoon. (Discard any unopened mussels after 8 minutes.)

Pour cooking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve into a 1- to 2-quart heavy saucepan and boil until reduced to about 3 tablespoons, about 5 minutes. Transfer to a bowl.

Finely chop eggs, then add to reduced liquid along with vinegar, salt, and pepper. Add oil in a slow stream, whisking, then whisk in celery, onions, and tarragon.

Season vinaigrette with salt and pepper. Remove mussels from shells and reserve 1 half shell from each mussel.

Stir mussels (but not shells) into vinaigrette and marinate, covered and chilled, at least 1 hour.

Rinse and dry reserved mussel shells, then chill in a sealed plastic bag until ready to use. Arrange shells on a large platter lined with seaweed and spoon a mussel with some vinaigrette into each.

CROWN ROAST OF PORK WITH ONION AND BREAD-CRUMTUFFING <$>

Nothing is more majestic than this regal cut of meat - and nothing makes your house smell better while it roasts.

Here, pork’s natural sweetness is coaxed forward by the herbs and onions in the stuffing. And the crispy, savory bones are a delightful bonus.

You will have to special-order this cut of meat (the rib portions of the loins are joined to form a circle) from your butcher.

For stuffing 2 lb onions, finely chopped (6 cups)

2 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 sticks (3/4 cup) unsalted butter

2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram

1 teaspoon black pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons cider vinegar

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 (1-lb) piece fresh Pullman loaf, pain de mie, or country loaf, cut into 1-inch cubes, then pulsed to coarse crumbs in a food processor 3/4 lb ground pork (usually comes with crown roast, see below)

1 cup finely chopped celery

For roast 1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh sage

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh marjoram or thyme

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1 (9- to 10-lb) crown roast of pork, rib ends frenched (ground pork reserved for stuffing, above)

1 1/2 cups water

For sauce 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth 2 teaspoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water 2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter.

Make stuffing:

Cook onions with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in 3/4 stick butter in a 12-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, covered, stirring occasionally, until tender, about 10 minutes.

Continue to cook, uncovered, stirring frequently, until onions are pale golden, about 10 minutes more.

Add sage, marjoram, and pepper and cook, stirring, 5 minutes. Add vinegar and wine and boil, stirring occasionally, until liquid is evaporated, then remove from heat.

Meanwhile, cook bread crumbs and remaining teaspoon salt in remaining 3/4 stick butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderately low heat, stirring, until golden and crisp, 15 to 20 minutes.

Reserve 1 cup onion mixture, covered and chilled, for sauce.

Transfer remaining mixture to a large bowl and stir in ground pork, celery,d crumbs.

Cook roast and stuffing:<$>

Put 1 oven rack in lower third of oven and another on bottom of oven and preheat oven to 350|0xb0|F.

Stir together sage, marjoram, salt, and pepper in a small bowl, then rub over outside and bottom of roast.

Put roast in a small flameproof roasting pan and mound 2 cups stuffing loosely in center, then add water to pan.

Transfer remaining stuffing to a buttered 2-quart baking dish and chill until ready to bake.

Roast pork in lower third of oven, covering stuffing and tips of ribs with a sheet of foil after about 30 minutes and adding more water if pan becomes dry, until thermometer inserted 2 inches into center of meat (do not touch bones) registers 155|0xb0|F, 2 1/4 to 2 3/4 hours total.

Bake remaining stuffing (next to or under roast, starting 30 minutes before roast is done), covered with foil, 30 minutes.

Increase oven temperature to 425|0xb0|F (after removing roast from oven) and continue to bake stuffing, uncovered, until top is crisp, 15 to 20 minutes more.

Transfer pork to a platter and let stand 30 minutes.

Make sauce whilork stands<$>:

Transfer pan juices from roasting pan to a gravy separator or a glass measure and skim off fat.

Straddle roasting pan across 2 burners, then add wine to pan and boil over high heat, stirring and scraping up brown bits, until reduced by about half, about 5 minutes.

Add reserved onion mixture, broth, pan juices, and any juices on platter from roast and bring to a simmer. Restir cornstarch mixture and add to pan, whisking, then simmer 2 minutes.

Add butter and swirl pan until incorporated. Season with salt and pepper. Carve pork and serve with stuffing and sauce. Cooks’ notes: - Stuffing can be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered.

- Pork can be rubbed with seasoning and stuffed 2 hours before roasting and chilled, covered.

Let stand at room temperature 30 minutes before roasting.

CRANBERRY HORSERADISH SAUCE

Cranberries mixed with sugar and citrus are perfectly fine for turkey, but pork needs something a little different. Here, the tart quality of the cranberries is underlined by the horseradish, and together they enhance the sweet, sturdy nature of roast pork.

1 (12-oz) bag fresh or frozen cranberries

1 (6-oz) jar prepared horseradish, including juice, or 1/4 cup firmly packed finely grated peeled fresh horseradish 2/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

Bring cranberries, horseradish, sugar, and water to a simmer in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat, stirring with a wooden spoon until sugar is dissolved.

Simmer, uncovered, stirring and mashing berries frequently with spoon, until berries break down, 5 to 10 minutes.

Serve sauce warm or at roommperature.

Cooks’ note:<$> Sauce can be made 2 days ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature or reheat over low heat before serving.

Makes about 2 cups.

CELERY-ROOT AND APPLE PUREE

We already know you like applesauce with pork, but this soft, creamy purée is so much better. It’s like a bowl of puréed potatoes that yearns to be dessert.

5 lb celery root (sometimes called celeriac)

4 Gala, Empire, or McIntosh apples (1 1/2 lb total)

1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter

2 teaspoons salt

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg Garnish: celery leaves

Peel celery root with a sharp knife, then cut into 1-inch cubes. Peel and core apples, then cut into 1-inch pieces.

Melt butter in a 6- to 8-quart heavy pot over moderately low heat, then add celery root, apples, and salt and stir to coat with butter.

Cover with a tight-fitting lid and cook (without adding liquid), stirring occasionally, until celery root is tender, 50 minutes to 1 hour.

Purée mixture in batches in a food processor until smooth, about 2 minutes per batch.

Return purée to pot and stir in cream, white pepper, and nutmeg.

Reheat, covered, over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until hot, at 5 minutes.

Cooks’ note:<$> Purée can be made 1 day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered. Reheat, covered, over low heat, stirring occasionally, until hot, about 15 minutes.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

POTATO AND LARDON CASSEROLE

With ingredients like bacon, garlic, and butter, how could this hearty casserole be anything but wonderful? You’ll definitely wish you’d made more.

5 lb yellow-fleshed potatoes such as Yukon Gold

1/2 lb slab bacon, any rind discarded, bacon cut lengthwise into 1/4-inch-thick slices, and then slices cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick strips (lardons)

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into bits

Preheat oven to 350|0xb0|F. Put oven rack in middle position.

Peel potatoes, then halve lengthwise (quarter if very large) and cut crosswise into 3/4-inch-thick pieces.

Blanch potatoes in 2 batches in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water 5 minutes per batch (potatoes will not be completely cooked through).

Transfer potatoes with a slotted spoon to a large bowl of ice and cold water to stop cooking, then drain in a colander and transfer to another large bowl.

Cook lardons in a 10-inch heavy skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until pale golden, 5 to 8 minutes.

Add lardons and 2 tablespoons fat from skillet to potatoes, then add thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper and toss until combined well.

Transfer mixture to a greased 13- by 9-inch shallow baking dish (or other 3-quart shallow baking dish) and dot with butter.

Bake casserole (next to or under crown roast, if making, starting 30 minutes before roast is done), uncovered, 30 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 425|0xb0|F, then continue to bake until top is golden, about 15 minutes.

Seaswith salt.

Cooks’ note:<$> Casserole can be assembled (but not baked) 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring to room temperature, 30 minutes to 1 hour, before baking.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

FREED GREEN BEANS<$>

The secret to this dish is the touch of Sherry vinegar, added at the last minute; it lends a sprightly note that complements the rest of the meal.

2 lb green beans, stem ends trimmed 3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

2 teaspoons

Sherry vinegar

1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

Cook beans in 2 batches in a 6- to 8-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until just tender, 4 to 5 minutes.

Transfer beans with a slotted spoon to a large bowl and toss with salt, pepper, vinegar, and oil. Serve hot or warm.

ks’ notes<$>:

- If you do not have a frencher, beans can be halved diagonally.

- Beans can be frenched (but not cooked) 1 day ahead and chilled in a sealed plastic bag lined with dampened paper towels.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

HLNUT PARIS-BREST<$>

Every holiday deserves a really special dessert. And this classic French creation — a large ring of airy choux pastry filled with the richest praline pastry cream — does the season proud. If you think it resembles a bicycle wheel, you’re right: It’s named after an 1891 bicycle race that ran from Paris to Brest and back again, and was the precursor of the Tour de France.

For praline

1 cup hazelnuts (4 1/2 oz)

1/4 cup sliced almonds (3/4 oz)

1/2 cup granulated sugar

For cream filling

1 cup whole milk

3 large egg yolks

1/3 cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons cornstarch 1/4 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup lled heavy cream

For choux pastry

1 cup water 1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 cup all-purpose flour

4 whole large eggs

1 large egg yolk, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water

3 tablespoons sliced almonds

1 tablespoon confectioners sugar plus additional for dusting

Special equipment: a pastry bag; a 5/8-inch plain tip; a 1/2-inch open-star tiBI>

Make praline:<$>

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350|0xb0|F. Toast hazelnuts in a shallow baking pan in oven until skins split and nuts are golden, 10 to 15 minutes.

Remove from oven (leave oven on), then wrap hazelnuts in a kitchen towel and let steam 5 to 10 minutes.

Rub hazelnuts in towel to remove loose skins (some skins may not come off), then transfer hazelnuts to a small bowl, discarding skins.

While hazelnuts steam, toast almonds in baking pan until golden, 5 to 8 minutes, then add to bowl with hazelnuts.

Lightly grease pan and set aside. Cook sugar in a dry small heavy skillet over moderate heat, swirling skillet, until sugar begins to melt, about 2 minutes.

Continue to cook, swirling skillet, until sugar is melted into a deep golden caramel, 2 to 3 minutes more.

Remove from heat and, working quickly, stir in nuts to coat, then transfer mixture to greased baking pan, spreading slightly.

Let stand at room temperature until hardened and cool, about 30 minutes.

Transfer praline to a heavy-duty sealable plastic bag and seal bag, pressing out excess air.

Coarsely crush praline in bag using a rolling pin or bottom of a heavy skillet, then transfer three fourths to a food processor and purée until it becomes a smooth, creamy “butter,” 3 to 4 minutes. Reserve remaining crushed praline for garnish.

Make cream filling:

Bring milk to a simmer in a 2 1/2- to 3-quart heavy saucepan over moderate heat.

While milk heats, whisk together yolks, sugar, cornstarch, and salt in a heatproof bowl.

Add hot milk to yolk mixture in a stream, whisking, then transfer mixture to saucepan and bring to a simmer over moderate heat, whisking (mixture will become thick and lumpy).

Simmer, whisking constantly, 3 minutes (mixture will become smooth). Remove from heat and stir in butter and vanilla.

Transfer to a clean bowl and chill pastry cream, its surface covered with wax paper, until cold, at least 1 hour.

Beat heavy cream in a bowl with an electric mixer until it just holds stiff peaks. Beat pastry cream in a large bowl with mixer until smooth, then add praline “butter” and beat until incorporated.

Fold in whipped cream, one third at a time, gently but thoroughly, then cover surface of hazelnut cream with wax paper and chilntil ready to use.

Make choux pastry:

Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 425|0xb0|F. Trace a 9-inch circle with a pencil on a 12-inch square of parchment or wax paper, then trace a 5-inch circle inside it.

Turn paper over (circles will still be visible) and put on a large baking sheet.

Bring water to a boil with butter, granulated sugar, and salt in a 3-quart heavy saucepan over high heat, then reduce heat to moderate.

Add flour all at once and cook, stirring vigorously with a wooden spoon, until mixture pulls away from side of pan, about 1 minute.

Continue to cook and stir vigorously (to dry out mixture) 3 minutes more.

Remove pan from heat and cool mixture, stirring occasionally, until warm to the touch, 5 to 10 minutes.

Add whole eggs 1 at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition until dough is smooth. Transfer dough to pastry bag fitted with plain tip and pipe 3 concentric rings to fill space between traced circles on parchment, then pipe 2 more on top to cover seams between bottom rings.

Lightly brush pastry with some egg wash, then scatter almonds over pastry and dust with 1 tablespoon confectioners sugar.

Bake choux pastry until golden and well puffed, 20 to 25 minutes, then reduce oven temperature to 375|0xb0|F and continue to bake until deep golden and firm to the touch, about 25 minutes more. Immediately prick top of pastry in 8 to 10 places with tip of a small sharp knife (to release steam) and continue to bake until golden brown, about 10 minutes more.

Transfer pastry (on parchment) to a rack and cool completely, about 30 minutes.

Halve pastry horizontally with a serrated knife and carefully invert top onto work surface. Remove and discard any wet dough from interior of top and bottom.

Transfer hazelnut cream to cleaned and dried pastry bag fitted with star tip and pipe cream decoratively into bottom half of pastry, then carefully reinvert top half over it.

Sprinkle top with reserved praline and dust with additional confectioners sugar.

Cooks’ notes<$>:

- Praline and praline “butter” can be made 2 days ahead. Chill butter in an airtight container and keep remaining praline in an airtight container at room temperature.

- Pastry cream (without praline “butter” or whipped cream) can be chilled, its surface covered with wax paper and bowl covered with plastic wrap, up to 2 days.

- Choux ring can be baked (but not halved) 8 hours ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then kept, loosely covered with foil (not plastic wrap), at room temperature. Cooled choux ring can also be frozen, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap, 1 week. Thaw completely in wrapping before recrisping in a preheated 350|0xb0|F oven 10 minutes. Cool to room temperature before proceeding.

- Cream filling can be chilled up to 4 hours.

- Paris-Brest can be assembled 2 hours before serving and kept at cool room temperature.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

POACHED ORANGES WITH CANDIED ZEST AND GINGER

A perfect ending to a holiday meal, these gorgeous golden orbs are remarkably refreshing.

And they will remind you why, in days past, good little children often found oranges hidden in the toes of their Christmas stockings. click photo to enlarge

1 (2-oz) piece fresh ginger (2 to 3 inches long)

12 navel oranges (preferably small)

1 1/2 cups water 2 cups sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt 1 1/2 cups dry white wine

1 cup fresh orange juice

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier

Peel ginger and halve crosswise. Cut pieces lengthwise into 1/16-inch-thick slices, then cut slices into 1/8-inch-wide julienne strips and transfer to a 2-quart heavy saucepan.

Remove zest from 3 oranges in long wide strips with a vegetable peeler, removing any white pith from zest with a paring knife, and add to ginger in pan.

Fill pan three-fourths full with cold water and bring to a boil. Boil 1 minute, then drain in a sieve.

Return zest and ginger to pan and refill with cold water. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 10 minutes.

Drain zest and ginger.

Repeat simmering with more cold water for another 10 minutes, then drain. Bring 1 1/2 cups water, 1 cup sugar, and salt to a boil in saucepan, stirring until sugar is dissolved.

Add zest and ginger and gently simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until zest and ginger are completely translucent and syrup is thickened, 15 to 20 minutes. Drain candied zest and ginger in a sieve, discarding syrup.

Meanwhile, cut 1/2 inch from top and bottom of all oranges with a sharp knife, exposing fruit at both ends.

Cut peel and pith from sides (leaving no white parts) with paring knife, trimming fruit if large (but retaining orange shape) to 2 1/2 to 2 3/4 inches wide at middle. Discard trimmings.

Bring wine, orange juice, 1/2 cup Grand Marnier, and remaining cup sugar to a boil in a deep 12-inch heavy skillet, stirring until sugar is dissolved, then boil 3 minutes.

Add oranges, arranging in 1 layer, and simmer, covered with a tight-fitting lid, 10 minutes. Transfer oranges with a slotted spoon to a serving dish, inverting them (so syrup coats oranges).

Add candied zest and ginger to syrup and boil over moderate heat, uncovered, until syrup is thickened and mixture is reduced to about 1 1/4 cups, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in remaining 2 tablespoons Grand Marnier.

When oranges are cool enough to handle, cut each crosswise into thirds on a cutting board, then reassemble “whole” in serving dish. Spoon zest mixture, including syrup, over oranges, arranging zests and ginger decoratively over them.

Chill oranges in serving dish until cold, at least 1 hour. Just before serving, spoon syrup in dish over oranges to coat. Serve chilled at room temperature.

Cooks’ note:<$> Oranges can be chilled up to 1 day, covered loosely (preferably with an inverted large bowl) after 1 hour. Spoon syrup over oranges again just before serving.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.

More on how to create that extra-special meal fitting for the big day