If you are thinking of the World’s second oldest wine appellation, established by Royal Decree in 1757 (oldest is Chianti in 1716), then we are on the same track.

The Tokaji Region of Hungary has had a very difficult time, as firstly it was ravished by “the war to end all wars”, which of course it did not, and then the Second World War and then the communist attitude towards quality business production.

In 1990 well known Pocket Book of Wine author Hugh Johnson gathered a group of friends together and formed The Royal Tokaji Wine Company, the goal being to re-establish the legendary Hungarian dessert wine of this nation.

Royal Tokaji is the acknowledged leader in this renaissance.

May I suggest Royal Tokaji 5 Puttonyos 2007 at a cost of $47.25 for a half litre bottle.

To quote The Wine Spectator “92/100 sweet, with luscious apricot, peach compote and golden raisin held up by a well of latent acidity that drives the spice, chalk and candied lemon zest notes on the long finish”.

Puttonyos denote the level of residual (natural) sugar in the wine and they range from three to six.

Royal Tokaji 1999 6 Puttonyos Szt Tamas takes it to a new level for this very age-worthy wine and offers apricots, maple syrup, figs, lemons, oranges, raisins, butter-toffee and very long finish.

Maybe you should just pay $98.95 for a half litre and forget about the pudding!

Perhaps I lack business sense when I submit the following advice “Twenty Year old Tawny Port is the best deal”.

I mean possibly I should try to talk you into Graham’s 40 Year Old Tawny for $182.10 or their 30 for $119.70 or the Taylor’s 10 Year Old for $41.95, but dollar for dollar it is my belief that you get more bang for your buck with a fine 20 Year Old Tawny such as our Taylor’s for $73.95.

This is an outstanding Tawny of exceptional richness and complexity and in the Taylor’s cellars at Vila Nova de Gaia, the cool, damp coastal climate encourages a gentle ageing process producing aromas of great complexity and finesse.

The fruit has mellowed further than the Ten Year Old and the spicy, nutty aromas of ageing are more powerful and intense.

Please remember that ageing of Tawny Port takes place in the barrel so you cannot hang on to a Ten Year Old in the bottle for ten years and then expect to end up with a Twenty equivalent.

When you buy a Tawny it will have been recently bottled, sediment free and ready to pour and enjoy.

We carry fifteen selections of Sauternes, the finest of French dessert wines. I will suggest two.

Half bottles of Chateau Guiraud Premier Cru 2009 are from a near-perfect vintage and the stunning richness and mouth-feel allow for a small bottle to really be sufficient for a dinner party of six.

The Wine Spectator rated this 96/100 and wrote “exotic, vibrant aromas of toasted coconut, followed by an almond cream note that gives way to the core of green fig, papaya, melon, honey and the power to be one of the longest lived wines of the vintage”. A half bottle sells for $47.65.

Hopefully you trust me when I say that our 2006 “Chateau No Name” Sauternes is a treat of epic proportions.

We decided to name it thusly as it simply states “Sauternes” on the label and I am not allowed to tell you exactly what it is.

The fact is that one of the most important wine properties in the entire World produced about 250 barrels of wine in 2006 and they made the decision to declassify three of them.

In other words these three barrels did not go into the final blend that rated 98+/100 from Robert Parker and now hovers in at about $400 a bottle on the internet.

Our “No Name” is yours for $70.55 for a full bottle size and it would take a highly experienced nose to really tell the difference.

As you put that match to your Christmas pudding I do hope that you enhance the overall experience with a fine, dessert wine.

Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.