EVER since Marlene Dietrich sang Lili Marlene to a roomful of homesick solders in The Angel, German cinema has attracted critics' attention. Now in more recent years, movies made on location there have begun to attract travellers' interest."Germany is a small country, but crowds a lot of unexpected landscapes into its space," commented award-winning actor Maximilian Schell. "In all the time I've spent there, the variety of locations available continues to surprise me."

On one hand, German films can be profoundly thought-provoking, as in Das Boot, analysing the tragic waste of war from a submarine crew's perspective . . . or on the other, as light and effervescent as a Sigmund Romberg operetta.

A list of "classics" quickly comes to mind. On that list is Cabaret, nominated for eight Academy Awards and reflective of Berlin and the rise of Nazism in 1930.

A musical-drama directed by Bob Fosse (who won an Oscar for his work), it stars Liza Minnelli (another Oscar for her role), Michael York and Joel Gray (yet another Oscar winner for Best Supporting Actor as the night club master of ceremonies.)

As a Berlin press release described it: "A special feature of Berlin in the 1920s was glitter and glamour offered by the world of light entertainment . . . the atmosphere and seamy appeal of the notorious Kit Cat Club, which was used to depict Berlin of the 1930s in the musical Cabaret."

Funeral In Berlin is another familiar title seen on the late show with some regularity. Michael Caine plays the spy involved in possible defection of Russian security officer Oscar Homulka.

The film very effectively captures the Cold War's mood, and sequences showing the infamous wall add to the suspense of this mystery thriller. And, of course, there are many glimpses of Berlin capturing much of its tension at that time.

With war so much a part of Germany's history, some of its most recognised movies involve that theme. Some have become classics. The Odessa File stars Jon Voight, Derek Jacobi and Maximilian Schell in Frederick Forsythe's best seller about the German journalist who learns of a secret file exposing former Nazis. It's a film that has viewers sitting on the edge of their seat.

Judgment At Nuremberg, with Spencer Tracy as the American judge at the war crimes trial, attempts to determine the guilt of citizens carrying out criminal orders of the Nazi government.

A truly stellar cast included Burt Lancaster, Richard Widmark, Dietrich, Montgomery Clift, Judy Garland and Schell, who won an Oscar for his role as defence attorney.

This traveller has been to Nuremberg twice and found it very worth a detour. First time I sought out some of its more infamous locations. Though there was considerable devastation during World War Two, it's amazing how much remains and segments damaged are now carefully restored in a way that recalls its mediaeval history.

From the 12th to the 16th century, it was considered the unofficial centre of the Holy Roman Empire of German Nations and most emperors spent some time at the massive castle here.

Nazis, in an effort to revive Nuremberg's importance as the empire's centre, built a large stadium where massive rallies were held during the 1930s — the ones so often still seen on television documentaries.

Visitors can actually visit that stadium where Hitler addressed crowds and also view the special ceremonial routes followed by supporters carrying emblems reminiscent of the Roman Empire.

And, of course, after that first trip, my brother Jim had to be guided there on my second so he could see this very haunting place, then go into the courtroom where the trail was held. It's not normally open to the public, but we just walked in as though attending a trial.

Besides memories of a tragic past, there are many more pleasant sights here. The massive Kaiserberg (Imperial Castle), several very historic churches dating back to the Middle Ages and ramparts of 13th-century defensive walls complete with 46 fortified towers. Walking along them looking down over Nuremberg is especial interesting.

This was home to famous artist Albrecht D|0xfc|rer and the residence where he lived from 1509 to his death in 1528 is now a museum.

Nuremberg is famous for its Christkindlesmarket (Christmas market) and there are outstanding toy shops open year around. Exceptionally impressive were collections of toy soldiers and fancy pewter shade pulls of unique design that now decorate some of my window shades at home.

Travel journalism certainly introduces one to an interesting variety of people and situations. Talking about war reminds me of an experience involving two soldiers who fought on opposite sides in World War Two.WE were all together at a journalists' convention in Tunisia crossing a remote stretch of desert together in a bus. American writer Hank Chapman began reminiscing about a battle he'd fought in that very area against Rommel's Afrika Corps . . . and it turned out former Luftwaffe officer Karl Koepke had been at the same place on the other side. It was a unique conversation.Karl had been captured, brought to Texas as a POW, and went on to become Lufthansa's North America Public Relations Director, later retiring to Florida. I got to know him and his wife very well, often travelling with them and always enjoyed his cheerful gemutlich greeting on a sunny day — Wenn Engel reisen, lach der Himmel — which translates as: "When angles travel, the sun shines."

Most recent German location was Jody Foster's Flightplan using many Berlin sights. Cameras hopscotched around, focusing on the Charlottenburg district of the city. She labelled it one of her favourite areas . . . "a really pretty part of West Berlin, really cool shops, beautiful old apartment buildings, good little restaurants".

She enjoyed dining at Einstein Cafe, appropriate since this year Berlin is observing the 100th anniversary of Einstein's discovery of his theory of relatively.

I've saved my favourite location for last. A few productions are so linked to one particular place, that when a movie company attempts to film it elsewhere, viewers feel betrayed. Romberg's The Student Prince is the perfect example. It was written about a dashing young prince's student days at Heidelberg's famed 600-year-old university.

"That lively, lilting operetta was written about Heidelberg refers to actual Heidelberg places and helped create the mystique which still lingers here," emphasised tourism official Nils Kroessen. "So if people don't get to see Heidelberg Castle or our Neckar River on screen, they feel disappointed."

The impact of that one operetta, and endless movies made of it, are a good example of what a positive effect such productions can have on a locale. It has made Heidelberg irresistible to travellers who come to sing its drinking song in Zum Roten Ochsen (Red Ox Inn, vintage 1703), perhaps sitting in a chair once occupied by Bismarck of Mark Twain.

Most famous of Heidelberg's many student taverns, it seems initials of every student from the past three centuries are carved on its walls! Those nostalgic tourists roam historic university halls, explore the "artistic" 18th-century students' jail, and discover the old student quarter with its narrow streets and lively inns.

Savouring gemutlichkeit mood of this friendly town accounts for the high repeat number of visitors. And because it is one of few large German cities not devastated by World War Two air raids (since Patton wanted it saved for his headquarters) many of is most important mediaeval buildings still stand undamaged.

In some ways, it's like a dramatic living museum, but a very lively one that comfortably co-exists with famed Max Plank Institute, scientific molecular research in bio-genetics and international law. While some students are singing Gaudeamus Igitur, research scientists are making headlines.

"We've had many movie stars and other celebrities here," admitted Ernst-Friedrich von Kretschmann, owner of very luxe five-star Europaischer Hof where we so much enjoy staying . . . happily so often we have lost count. "But they value their privacy and we respect that."THE really magical way to see The Student Prince is on a warm evening during the summer Heidelberg Castle Festival. Seating and a stage are set up in the partially ruined castle's courtyard on a hillside high above town. With a soft breeze drifting across the Neckar Valley, golden lights illuminate the castle's dramatic red sandstone facade and an orchestra begins those familiar tunes. It is a heady experience, to say the least.Several times during summer, a special illumination at the castle gives the impression it's burning, as it actually did in 1764. Fireworks accompany the drama and it's something visitors won't soon forget. Last one this year is on September 2. To learn more about Student Prince performances and other very special attractions, check www.cvb-heidelberg.de.

Germany has contributed many stars to the cinema world. Among the most famous is Berlin-born Dietrich who became an American citizen in 1939, supporting the US during World War Two and entertaining troops.

After her death at age 91, the City of Berlin acquired Dietrich's estate from her daughter. It's now on permanent exhibit at Berlin's Film Museum. A special three-hour bus tour covers her early life in the German capital, where she was returned for burial at her request.