A traditional Spanish paella is one of those show-stopping dishes that too many cooks resist because of the lengthy ingredient list and preparation time. There?s no denying that even a basic paella calls for rice, several kinds of seafood, poultry, tomato and other fresh vegetables, herbs and seasonings plus optional ingredients. Yet, the sheer variety of colours, textures and flavours is what makes this big, bold, colourful dish so captivating and so ideal for feeding a crowd.

Putting it together in stages, starting up to six hours ahead of serving, makes the preparation much easier. There?s nothing intimidating about the cooking techniques involved saut?ing, simmering and, for the paella below, baking. Paella requires minimal last-minute attention, and it can be served in the same dish in which it was cooked.

Saffron, made from the dried yellow-orange stigmas of a certain species of crocus, is available in the spice section of supermarkets, natural food stores and many kitchenware shops. For optimum flavour, choose saffron threads over the powdered form.

Store saffron in a cool, dark place and use within six months. It must be dissolved or infused in hot liquid to release its golden colour and distinctive flavour. Use sparingly, adding it toward the end of the cooking process.

Traditionally, paella was cooked uncovered in a wide, slope-sided pan over an open wood fire. This version calls for using a very large, lidded skillet or flameproof casserole dish and a home oven. An appetizer of grilled vegetables, romesco sauce and dry white wine or Spanish sherry complement this dish.

6 tablespoons olive oil

2 small fryer chickens (3 pounds each), cut into 8 pieces each

12 ounces sweet Italian sausage, sliced inch thick

2 pounds jumbo shrimp (8 to 10 per pound)

1 pounds sea scallops

1 cups thinly sliced onion

2 tablespoons finely minced garlic

4 cups chopped tomatoes, fresh or canned

1 teaspoons hot red pepper flakes

Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1 cup coarsely chopped green bell pepper

1 teaspoons saffron threads

2 quarts hot chicken stock

4 cups short-grain rice

1 pound mussels, scrubbed and debearded (optional)

1 pounds clams, scrubbed (optional)

3 tablespoons lemon juice

1 pound spinach, blanched, squeezed dry and chopped

1 cup diced red bell pepper

1 cup cooked peas (optional)

3 tablespoons parsley

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a very large skillet over moderately high heat, warm two tablespoons of the olive oil. Wipe chicken pieces completely dry and brown on all sides (ten to 12 minutes). Brown half of the pieces; transfer to several thicknesses of paper towel to drain. Add 2 more tablespoons olive oil to the skillet and repeat browning process.

2. When all chicken has been browned, add sausage slices to skillet and brown on both sides. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Reduce heat to medium and add shrimp.

Saut? two minutes to pre-cook and drain on paper towels. If necessary, trim away tough muscle from the side of each scallop, then add scallops and brown 30 seconds; drain on paper towels.

3. Add remaining two tablespoons olive oil to skillet; reduce heat to moderately low. Add onions and garlic and cook until onions are soft (seven to ten minutes).

Stir in tomatoes, pepper flakes, and salt and pepper. Cook ten minutes, stirring occasionally. Mixture should thicken slightly. Add chicken, sausage and green pepper. Simmer, uncovered, ten minutes.

4. Dissolve saffron in cup of the hot stock. Mix with remaining stock and add to skillet. Stir in rice. Raise heat to high and bring to a boil. Cover and transfer skillet to oven. Bake 15 minutes. Uncover and tuck shrimp and scallops into mixture. Place mussels and clams, if used, on top. Cover and bake until rice is just tender (about ten minutes) and mussels and clams, if used, have opened. Uncover and discard any unopened mussels or clams.

5. Sprinkle top of mixture with lemon juice. Stir in spinach, red bell pepper and peas, if used. Let stand, covered, five to ten minutes. Taste for seasoning and sprinkle with parsley just before serving.

Serves ten.

Garlic, red and black pepper, and chili powder heat up this peppery sauce for seafood or vegetables. This recipe makes enough for approximately ten (12- or 14-inch) skewers threaded with quick-cooking vegetables such as zucchini, summer squash, tomatoes, peppers or mushrooms.

cup olive oil

2 tablespoons minced garlic

teaspoon hot red pepper flakes

1 cups peeled, seeded and diced tomato

cup soft bread crumbs

1 teaspoons chili powder

2 teaspoons anchovy paste

1 teaspoons tomato paste

2 teaspoons sherry vinegar

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1. In medium skillet, heat two tablespoons of the olive oil over moderate heat. Add garlic, pepper flakes, tomato and bread crumbs. Saut? three minutes. Add chili powder; saut? two minutes more.

2. Transfer mixture to food processor or blender. Add anchovy and tomato pastes and sherry vinegar. Blend until smooth. With motor running, add remaining olive oil slowly, blending to make a thick, rosy sauce. Taste; add salt and pepper if desired. If sauce is too thick, gradually whisk in cold water to thin.

Makes three cups.

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