I live in France. I travel in France. I know this immensely varied country reasonably well but I always feel I'm in France no matter where I go within its borders. With ONE exception that is: Alsace.

From the moment I stepped off the plane in Strasbourg after a flight from Toulouse I felt I was in a totally different country. The taxi driver spoke to me in a sing-songie sort or German patois, then switched to a heavily accented French.

Signs in German struck me. As we entered the mediaeval section of Strasbourg the streets narrowed and we swung into the Cathedral Square where my taxi stopped at my hotel – practically right in front of the massive Notre-Dame cathedral.

The sight of the cathedral took my breath away even though the light was bad and it was raining. This gigantic Gothic structure carries a powerful visual punch no matter what kind of light.

Later on after night-fall, there was a son-et-lumière spectacle that bathed the cathedral from top to bottom in multicoloured lights. The cathedral's 12th- to 14th-century stained-glass windows and the 14th-century astronomical clock are equally amazing sights. Strasbourg is a good place to meet the essence of Alsace, the smallest and easternmost of French provinces.

It is one of the most interesting parts of the country and one of the most disputed, having changed hands between France and Germany a number of times. Strung along the Rhine in northeast France, it is the home of a rich tapestry of French and German culture which has blended into a very special Alsatian variety.

Strasbourg is where Goethe studied, where Gutenberg invented the printing press, it is the seat of the European Parliament and the Council of Europe. Besides the serious and monumental aspects of this highly cultured city, shopping is great whether you want quality or touristy souvenirs. The art and antique collector finds a great variety of savvy dealers.

For strollers, gourmets and gourmands – I am proud of belonging in these categories – this city is hard to beat. The mediaeval La Petite France quarter is picturesque as well as beautiful. You can alternate between eating the most fabulous sausages on a street corner or go to a bevy of fine Michelin-starred restaurants.

In between these categories there are hundreds of cosy, comfortable winstubs, a Germanic type bistro. Strasbourg is also the home of the mightily powerful choucroute. Yes, one does eat seriously here! And drink if one is so inclined.

The finest beers in France are from here. Alsatian wines, mostly white, identified by grape variety and not by geographical location, are well known all over the world. Riesling, Sylvaner and Pinot Blanc are stars in this constellation of white grape varieties. Pinot noir is the only red variety which I found light, fruity, and delicious, with a slight cherry taste.

Beyond Strasbourg Alsace is a fairytale land of flowering villages, mediaeval castles and undulating vineyards. Above steep gables storks' nests are ubiquitous and they are considered to bring good luck. Alsatian villages are forever winning the much-envied Villes Fleuries de France.

Since, above all, Alsace is white wine country one would to well to follow the Route des Vins and pick a few villages and its sites along the way. Let it be known that it is nearly impossible to eat badly here and the hotel standards are excellent. The local tourism information offices invariably have a knowledgeable, multi-lingual staff.

A highlight of my all-too-quick tour of Alsace was a visit to winemakers A. Seltz et Fils in the old wine village of Mittelbergheim. Albert Seltz and his father Pierre whose family have been in the wine business since 1576 bubble with enthusiasm over their fine wines. Try a Sylvaner Vieille Vigne.

And, speaking of highligts, not far away sleepy, lovely Illhaeusern on the Ill River is home to one of the holiest food shrines in France – or the world, for that matter. The Auberge de l'Ill has managed to maintain a three-star Michelin rating for an amazing 40 years (this written in 2008).

In my opinion this restaurant has reached perfection in every way; the setting on the sloping banks of the weeping willow-lined tranquil river, its flowery gardens, the perfect and relaxed service and, most importantly, the exquisite food and wine selection.

No matter how much a meal here will set you back it is in the end cheap as the memory of a meal here will linger with you forever.

Then there is the lovely, mediaeval city of Colmar, the huge mountaintop Haut-Koenigsburg Castle – and on and on it goes. Alsace is a treasure trove and is right about on top of my places to revisit.

If you have any comments or feedback, Tor Eigeland can be contacted at tor.eigelandwanadoo.fr