Back in the 1970s when I decided on wine as a career if I wanted to enjoy a red from Bordeaux it was safest to pick one of the exalted sixty one that were “Classified” in 1855.

The other many thousands were too often rather weedy, thin and unripe, but not today and here are three examples from a whole host of new ideas that Bordeaux, and much of the world, have embraced to make their wines more user friendly.

In the old days the winemakers would use a refractometer (many still do) which is a small hand held device that tells them if the sugars are high enough to signal ripeness and a time to harvest.

Today serious growers look for phenolic, or tannin ripeness in the skins and the way to do this is to chew on the grape to judge the astringency and to bite the seeds to see if they have developed a nutty, almond like flavour.

They also look at the seed colour and brown is a sign that all is well. Instruments cannot do this and it is human judgment that counts.

Two other ideas that make for fuller, richer, fruitier wines are the non use of fining or filtering.

When wine is in the barrel it has little specs in suspension in it and to understand this think of a beam of sunlight shining through a room and all the tiny particles that you can observe floating. You wonder how you can breathe the stuff!

The traditional way to remove these from wine is to drop an egg white through the bung hole at the top of the barrel and as it sinks to the bottom of the liquid it attracts these tiny particles and removes them. This is called fining.

Filtering further clarifies the wine. In many cases I think that both remove a little of the “soul” of the wine.

To enjoy Bordeaux the trick is to start with a very fine vintage and for a trial I suggest 2009 which is an early maturing, fruit forward and exceptionally delicious vintage.

Chateau d’ Escurac 2009 is a “Cru Bourgeois” that delivers fantastic ripe fruit with a slightly spicy, exotic character that the winemaker says is a little reminiscent of the great Second Growth Chateau Cos d’Estournel ($141.40 for the 2004).

It has a fabulously velvety texture and will drink well now and for the next ten years. $30.00.

Chateau Rollan de By 2009 garners 91/100 from the Wine Spectator that goes on to say “Very flashy, this delicious red shows plum, raspberry and blackberry pate de fruit notes backed by spice cake, anise and toasty vanilla.

The finish is long and polished. Drink now through 2017”. $37.05.

The first two wines are from the Medoc, but now let us travel east to the area known as St Emilion and it is here that Merlot dominates.

I will quote Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate commenting on Chateau Faizeau 2009 that we sell for $31 “Another winner from these old vines (mostly Merlot), this sleeper of the vintage from the Raynaud family that owns La Croix de Gay and La Fleur de Gay in Pomerol, exhibits a dense ruby/purple colour as well as wonderful mocha and black cherry jam notes. Fleshy and full-bodied with outstanding purity and a heady, potent finish. It should drink nicely for a decade or more. 90/100”.

There really is no reason not to go back to where it all began as these wines are just so perfect with the appropriate meal.

Rather than be intimidated by a choice of over 8,000 properties, just put your trust in us as we are extremely fussy about selecting this sort of wine to import.

Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.