One evening last October I found myself sitting at a table set for twelve guests, that like me were attending a black-tie dinner at the New York Wine Experience put on by the Wine Spectator Magazine. I introduced myself, and discovered that the fellow on my right was Milan Brajkovich.

I detected a New Zealand accent, and suspected that he may have been involved with a winery.

In actual fact he is the vineyard director, his mother, the managing director, his brother Michael the winemaker, his brother Paul, and sister Marijana, both marketing directors. Together they run a small winery that in all honesty makes the finest Chardonnays in New Zealand. Critics have compared their Chardonnays to Premier and even Grand Cru Burgundies and these French Chardonnays are considered the historic benchmark for the world.

Kumeu River winery is the furthest north of any in New Zealand, and up in Auckland the Tasman Sea on one side, and the vast Pacific on the other, generate clouds that help moderate the climate and contribute conditions that enhance the fantastic aromas, and flavours, from early ripening varieties such as Chardonnay, and Pinot Gris.

Their soil types ensure sufficient water supply to the deep roots, even during summer months, and the fact that the family does not have to irrigate is a factor that is critical to the quality of their grapes. Of course they pick by hand. Three generations of this family have worked for more than fifty years to perfect these vineyards.

I have mentioned before how difficult it is to be listed on the annual Wine Spectator Top 100 Wines in the World, as these are chosen from approximately 16,000 that are blind tasted each year. Kumeu River has been so honoured on at least seven occasions that I can find, and I am not sure if any other wine has ever achieved this.

At the high end in Bermuda I am finding a promising interest in the finest White Burgundies, and I suggest to those folks that they may be very pleasantly surprised if they were to try a Chardonnay from the Brajkovich family of Kumeu River.

As you may gather, I did ask Milan if we could represent his family wines here, and now two of their Chardonnays are in stock.

I often hear about tiredness for Chardonnay and this could be due to some of the bigger, fruitier, and oaky examples that one can find, although many winemakers are now shying away from these.

In the case of Kumeu River one can imagine being transported to the Cote d’Or in Burgundy and of classic Meursault or Puligny-Montrachet. Their 2011 Estate Chardonnay, that we sell for $33.75 has remarkable depth and intensity, accompanied by a peachy lusciousness. And, like all Chardonnay from this winery, it is capable of considerable ageing, and therefore a good wine for the cellar. Natural, indigenous yeasts from the vineyard itself, barrel fermentation, and 100% malolactic fermentation all add but to a most lovely example of what this classic grape can offer.

Here is what Robert Parker has to say about the Kumeu River “Hunting Hill” 2011 Chardonnay: “World-class Chardonnays are emerging out of some very special pockets in New Zealand and they are worth shouting about. If you manage to find a bottle, nab it! You won’t be disappointed”

This publication awarded the wine a platinum medal winning 95/100 which I believe is the highest rating of any Chardonnay, from anywhere, that we presently stock. I suggest that you find a Bermuda Lobster, buy a bottle of Kumeu River Chardonnay and settle down for a brilliant treat!

Their Hunting Hill Chardonnay at $38.80 may equal the cost of the lobster.

Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows, Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or on 295-0176. Burrows, Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits are available online at www.wineonline.bm.