Wines from the south of France
Thirty-five years ago in Bermuda, it was difficult to find a wine that was not from France, Italy, Germany or Portugal. Since then, the whole world has opened up and contributed a wonderful assortment, but we are now seeing a movement back to France, which I attribute to a combination of historic practices and a willing acceptance of modern vineyard practices and winemaking techniques.
If we are looking for enjoyable wines at very reasonable prices, then we would be well- advised to explore the land of sun, sea and holidays that borders the Mediterranean Sea. It is called Languedoc. The Romans recognised this unique terroir and produced vast amounts of wine here that was sent to the far reaches of their empire. Today, it is true to say, that the most diverse array of grape varieties in the world ripens beautifully here in the South of France.
To bring you wines from this area we have turned to a gentleman who has devoted the last 20 years with passion and enthusiasm to the development of 1,000 acres of vineyards that he now owns. Depending on the vineyard, he farms sustainably, organically and biodynamically as he preserves the environment, maintains ecosystems and strives to leave a healthy land for future generations.
The Gerard Bertrand 2013 Gris Blanc rosé is made from handpicked Grenache grapes and during fermentation they are protected by a carbon dioxide atmosphere to preserve their delicate aromas. This rosé is very light in colour with an elegant freshness of cherry, fig and a touch of cocoa. This is the wine to have with Asian dishes, baked fish and even spicy Thai curries. $15.95
For the same $15.95, you can try the Gerard Bertrand Reserve Speciale 2013 Viognier. To preserve the fruity aromas, this wine is fermented under cool, temperature-controlled conditions and malolactic fermentation is not allowed to take place.
This refreshing wine exhales complex notes of peach, pear, tropical fruits and white flowers as well as honeysuckle, orange blossom and citrus fruits. I would serve with poultry, fish, shellfish and Asian dishes.
In 1997 Gerard Bertrand acquired land in an area called Minervois la Livinere that was recognised as an official appellation in 1998. The Romans called it Cella Vinaria or the Wine Cellar. The hot, dry summers force the roots to go deep into the calcareous sandstone and limestone dating back some 60 million years to the Tertiary period.
Carignan and Syrah grapes give us an aromatic blend of blackberry, blueberry, cherry, liquorice and subtle underbrush in the Chateau Laville Bertrou 2012 red wine. This would be lovely with fine cheeses and, of course, red meats. $24.
Another quite new AOC classification, only granted in 1985, is the region of Corbieres that stretches from the Pyrenees to the Montagne Noire. It has a kaleidoscope of geology and complex climates.
The Gerard Bertrand 2011 Corbieres consists of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre, which, by the way, are usually the prevalent varieties in the famous Rhone wine called Chateauneuf-du-Pape. You will find a deep, concentrated colour and complex, ripe, black fruits followed by spices and liquorices.
Although full and fat, this wine does have a remarkable elegance. $17.20
Of his brand new release called Clos d’Ora Gerard Bertrand says, “It was born of a spiritual journey and an irresistible desire to produce an exceptional wine at this mysterious and unspoilt spot.”
Biodynamic methods are employed and only horses do the work between the rows of vines and then the Grenache and Mourvedre grapes are fermented under strict temperature control.
Carignan is fermented warmer to extract maximum aromas. The various lots are blended after the spring equinox. For a moment, we have to ignore my “reasonable prices” statement earlier on and share with you that a bottle of this inaugural 2012 release is $215.05.
This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn has stores in Hamilton (Front Street East. 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.