Some say it is named for its dark colour that resembles that of a merle, which is French for a little blackbird.

Others believe it refers to the fact this grape ripens before cabernet sauvignon, malbec and cabernet franc and so it is targeted by these grape-loving birds first.

Because of its early maturity it dominates on the eastern “right bank” St Émilion region of Bordeaux. It is here that the first winter weather arrives and the fruit must be harvested before the danger of frost damage.

Merlot is larger in size than its fellow wine grapes, therefore its skin-to-pulp ratio is less than any of them. For this reason, the wine tends to be softer and usually ready to enjoy at a younger age as we experience cherry, blackberry, plum and its other attributes.

Let us take a trip around the world and try a few, starting in the Lujan de Cuyo area of Mendoza, Argentina. Our Fabre Montmayou Reserva merlot 2012 is only $15.30 and yet it goes through very special treatment such as de-leafing, a labour-intensive process of removing vine leaves to expose the fruit to sunlight.

At the same time, a “green picking” is done and this is where some of the fruit is removed to allow fewer bunches to ripen, but with more intensity and complexity. The grapes are hand-sorted before pressing so that less than perfect ones are removed. The final result is a wine that is complex, with a refreshing nose of wild berries, strawberries and hints of vanilla. It is rich with a long aftertaste.

The year is so important in Bordeaux and so I have selected a 2009 as it is a very fine, early maturing vintage. Chateau Montlisse is a St Émilion grand cru that blends together 85 per cent merlot, 7.5 per cent cabernet franc and 7.5 per cent cabernet sauvignon in stainless steel tanks and then ages them in new oak barrels. The production is limited to just over 3,000 cases (small in Bordeaux) to focus on quality such as raspberry and blackberry notes. $38.90. This area is historic as vineyards were thriving when Benedictine monk Émilion (later to become a saint) arrived in the eighth century.

I have a real appreciation for the wines emanating from the Okanagan Valley in British Columbia, and the Mission Hill Select Lot Collection 2010 merlot is one of them. One reviewer writes: “Just dynamite! Perfectly balanced, deep, smooth Bing cherry flavours flowing after milk-chocolate aromas. Soft, fine tannins, dark colour, silky texture, perfectly balanced acidity. Really classy wine.” $36.50. If you are under any impression that Canada has not arrived yet then a bottle of this will convince you otherwise.

When I see Mollydooker winery owners Sarah and Sparky Marquis at the New York Wine Experience next week, I must be sure not to make the same mistake as last year. I reached out with my right hand to shake Sarah’s, who pushed it away and told me: “Michael you know better.” Sarah and Sparky are left-handed, which is what Mollydooker means in Australian English.

Theirs is the most awarded winery in Australia. Each year when their wines are released, they sell out quite quickly. Mollydooker 2013 “The Scooter” (Sparky used to race one) merlot is a brilliant red colour with fragrant cherry and plum nose, mouth-filling berry fruit on the palette with mocha and spice lingering along the tongue.

The tannins are soft and supple while subtle oak complements the abundant fruit. According to Winemaker it is “joyous and enjoyable”. Do not forget the “Mollydooker shake” — with any of their wines, remove the screw cap, pour a few ounces into a glass, recap and give the bottle a good shake. It’s a long story so go to their website to understand why. It has to do with the use of a gas rather than sulphur to preserve the wine.

• This column is a paid-for advertorial for Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. Michael Robinson is Director of Wine at Burrows Lightbourn Ltd. He can be contacted at mrobinson@bll.bm or 295-0176. Burrows Lightbourn have stores in Hamilton (Front Street East, 295-1554), Paget (Harbour Road, 236-0355) and St George’s (York Street, 297-0409). A selection of their wines, beers and spirits is available online at www.wineonline.bm.